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E30 coolant temp question??

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    E30 coolant temp question??

    OK so, Since I purchased the car about a year ago, the coolant temp gauge has never reached 12 oclock or the middle mark. It is consistently at about 1/4 or between 1/4 and 1/2. I thought this would make the ecu think I'm running cold and make it run rich, the exhaust is sometimes stinky with fuel smell (though this could be another issues all together)

    I've replaced everything in the cooling system except the friggin heater core

    i've done the following
    waterpump
    thermostat
    radiator
    fan clutch
    both coolant temp sensors/senders on the thermostat housing
    all coolant hoses
    new coolant
    the heat blows... extremely hot

    Is this a gauge cluster issue? My tach and mpg gauges just recently stopped working, 10 minutes after i was driving the car. If the gauge cluster is in fact athe culprit, and the temp gauge is reading cold, even though the engine is actually nice an hot, will the gauge cluster send that signal to the ecu and make the m20 run rich?

    guess i should look at the gauge cluster since everything in the cooling system has been done...

    any other idears?

    #2
    There are two different separate temp sensors - 1 for the cluster and other 1 for the ECU. Most likely SI-batteries inside the cluster have died.
    My transaction feedback on r3vlimited :):Clickety click

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by raudonis View Post
      There are two different separate temp sensors - 1 for the cluster and other 1 for the ECU. Most likely SI-batteries inside the cluster have died.
      Yup - brown top one is the gauge sender (only one wire, if you pop the connector off), and the blue one is the one for the ECU (two wires). The gauge in the cluster has nothing to do with sending the temp information to the ECU.

      That being said, don't worry about the gauge running between 1/4 and 1/2 - it's only a couple degrees difference anyways, and mine sits there all the time too (a bit closer to the 1/2). If yours is near the 1/4 though, yeah, there may be another issue. Does it bounce around, or is it steady? For the running rich, have you changed the O2 sensor? Also, SI board batteries.
      1988 Atlantisblau Euro/Japanese 325i Cabriolet
      1989 Schwartz 325i - now M50 powered! - now very dead
      1998 Toyota 4Runner Limited
      My 17,000km Big NA National Parks trip!

      Comment


        #4
        I replaced both of the coolant temp sensors, i just got done driving for about 45 minutes and the coolant temp gauge just barely got above the 1/4 mark... and stays extremely steady and does not fluctuate,

        the si board batteries arent fried and i now know why my tach doesnt work but , the tach problem was recent and the coolant gauge has acted this way for over a year..

        like i said everything in the cooling system is new except the heater core

        I havent replaced the O2 sensor, and that is on the list, i also have no working check engine light. it doesnt come on when the ignition is turned on or started.. i checked for a blown bulb and the bulb is working properly check for power in the wires no power coming out of the wires. so i cant do any stomp test or even see if i have any codes at all. any idears?

        Comment


          #5
          What thermostat is in the car? The stock 80C thermostat would have the needle right about half way between the 1/4 & 1/2 marks. A 70C unit would have the needle just above the 1/4 mark.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment


            #6
            Get an 80c thermostat.
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

            Comment


              #7
              well then i guess that should probably be the problem? i believe i did purchase the cooler thermostat of the bunch

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by NeedaE30 View Post
                OK so, Since I purchased the car about a year ago, the coolant temp gauge has never reached 12 oclock or the middle mark. It is consistently at about 1/4 or between 1/4 and 1/2. I thought this would make the ecu think I'm running cold and make it run rich, the exhaust is sometimes stinky with fuel smell (though this could be another issues all together)

                I've replaced everything in the cooling system except the friggin heater core

                i've done the following
                waterpump
                thermostat
                radiator
                fan clutch
                both coolant temp sensors/senders on the thermostat housing
                all coolant hoses
                new coolant
                the heat blows... extremely hot

                Is this a gauge cluster issue? My tach and mpg gauges just recently stopped working, 10 minutes after i was driving the car. If the gauge cluster is in fact athe culprit, and the temp gauge is reading cold, even though the engine is actually nice an hot, will the gauge cluster send that signal to the ecu and make the m20 run rich?

                guess i should look at the gauge cluster since everything in the cooling system has been done...

                any other idears?
                if you are calling the 1/4 mark the tick half way between edge of blue and 12oclock then you are on a wild goose chase

                i have a 70C tstat and a digital readout on my laptop anywhere between the two ticks is ok the dash gauge aint that accurate
                Last edited by digger; 05-16-2014, 04:29 PM.
                89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                Comment

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