I have seen pics of it, and I have seen others talk about it. But is there a thread anywhere about how to do it? I am talking about putting a late model rear valence on an early model E30. I have an 88 vert with the late front valence and ellipsoids and then you look at the rear of the car and it looks like the engineers blacked out. I want to do the conversion but would like to know the pros and cons, the difficulties and tips.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Early rear valence conversion?
Collapse
X
-
Cut sheetmetal & weld. Its not bolt on, which I'm assuming you know. A few guys have done it here, and it looks amazing.
There is no how to thread on how to do it specifically, but I think I remember a guy giving sort of a walk through in a build thread. If you just look at a late model car & early model car without the rear bumper though, you can visualize what you'd have to do.
'73 2002 m20 turbo [sold] '87 rat rod 325is [couch modded] '91 vert [daily] '88 325is [spec build v1] '84 325 [spec build v2] '99 323i vert [sold]
-
It has been done, takes a lot of body work. While you are at it you should try to convert the tail lights into late ones as well if you can manage the work. It would look complete.1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.
Originally posted by DEV0 E30You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Holland View PostIt has been done, takes a lot of body work. While you are at it you should try to convert the tail lights into late ones as well if you can manage the work. It would look complete.
I did the late rear valance swap onto my car. It's really not that hard, especially since nearly all of your work is going to be covered by the bumper. TONS of pics and info, check it out here:
Comment
-
Originally posted by Holland View PostIt has been done, takes a lot of body work. While you are at it you should try to convert the tail lights into late ones as well if you can manage the work. It would look complete.
Thank you Janderson I was hoping you would show up on this thread, Love the way your car looks.
Comment
-
Since you have a vert you can also do it an easier way where you dont have to cut up your car.
If you have a coupe or sedan Janderson's way would look best but if you have a vert the way I did it is much easier and doesn't involve modifying your body.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Holland View PostWhile you are at it you should try to convert the tail lights into late ones as well if you can manage the work. It would look complete.
Comment
-
Follow Janderson's Project Facelift thread and you'll be good to go. All the info you need is in there.
The hardest part of the late model rear apron swap is sourcing the apron to begin with and cutting it off the donor car. Once that's done, it's very straight forward.
While welding is the most thorough way to install it, it's not absolutely necessary so don't let that aspect scare you away. It's perfectly fine to install it just like you would an aftermarket apron and use nuts&bolts and/or oem body screws/washers. If you're worried about rust then sealing it well is much more important than what type of fastener is used to install it.
Using the pics in Janderson's thread as reference, here is how I trimmed my rear apron. It pretty much slips right on. The only thing I did differently is I kept the extra metal in the center of the apron, as you see that widened hole in the center of the apron will line up to the same hole on the body. Makes it a little easier to get everything centered correctly.
Comment
-
Well you do have to drill some holes into the body but it's really no different than installing an aftermarket rear apron like a Zender. The majority of the holes do no enter the trunk but rather go through the pre-existing apron which is not enclosed, as you can reach under and feel the backside of it (if that makes any sense). Just like installing a lot of things like is skirts or an m-tech II kit, sometimes you have to make mounting holes.
If you notice in Janderson's thread he first "tacked" his rear apron in place using body screws before he welded it.
Like he did you want to seal everything really well and that's pretty much all there is to it. The way you decide to mount it is really up to you. Whether it be panel adhesives, body screws, stainless steel rivets, welding, nuts & bolts, etc or a combination of them.Last edited by td325ic; 12-20-2010, 07:36 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by MR 325 View PostUmm, why?1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.
Originally posted by DEV0 E30You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.
Comment
Comment