Personally I think it would look better with white marker pen. But you have yellow interior bits so I can see why you went this route. I am not a fan of marker pen on tires. Nor a fan of a purple velvet dash but to each his own.
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Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey
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How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611
Could be better, could be worse.
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^^ I like that. A lot.My previous build (currently E30-less)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=170390
A 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4x4 Offroad in Inferno is my newest obsession
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Originally posted by MR E30 325is View Post^^ I like that. A lot.
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Have you gotten those AKG CAB's installed? I'd like to know what there like on the street.91' 318is 90' 325is
Originally posted by SonnyBuy the E30s, they ain't gonna last long
E30 can make you, E30 can break you
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Originally posted by Motheye99 View PostHave you gotten those AKG CAB's installed? I'd like to know what there like on the street.
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Cool, great work on the string setup.
I have a couple things to add, as someone who has done hundreds of alignments with Smart-strings and similar setups:
1- The bumper shock mount is definitely overkill. Hanging the bars over the core-support and rear panel make for a truly universal setup. You can always set the box accurately with the adjustment of the string bars, the way they mount on the car is fairly inconsequential.
2- I think the square lower bars will end up being slightly annoying for setting the box. Usually, to make a fine adjustment you'll be wanting to rotate the lower bar slowly while moving it and I think with the square bar you'll end up having to tap it or something and it may bind up slightly where it mounts to the vertical bars. This might not be a problem now, or ever, but if these things ever get tweaked at all it's going to be a real PITA
3- If you ever want to add scale pads to this setup, I don't think your slip plates will work, they'll overhang onto the scale pad frame itself and cause some weird corner weight readings. Folded up trash bags work really well as slip plates FYI. You could just plop some scale pads on top of your Jenga tower there but that would be a bit sketchy IMO. What would be really cool would be to DIY up some scale pad leveling frames (see below), I've thought about doing this for years, just haven't done it.
Definitely not trying to give you a hard time, so don't take it that way... What you've done here is something I and a lot of others have thought about doing but never have, definitely beats paying $450+ for smart strings. Let me know if you have any other DIY scaling/aligning questions, I can probably help outLast edited by Jb325is; 06-22-2019, 07:02 PM.- '88 m54 coupe
<3
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Originally posted by Jb325is View PostCool, great work on the string setup.
I have a couple things to add, as someone who has done hundreds of alignments with Smart-strings and similar setups:
1- The bumper shock mount is definitely overkill. Hanging the bars over the core-support and rear panel make for a truly universal setup. You can always set the box accurately with the adjustment of the string bars, the way they mount on the car is fairly inconsequential.
2- I think the square bars will end up being slightly annoying for setting the box. Usually, to make a fine adjustment you'll be wanting to rotate the lower bar slowly while moving it and I think with the square bar you'll end up having to tap it or something and it may bind up slightly where it mounts to the vertical bars. This might not be a problem now, or ever, but if these things ever get tweaked at all it's going to be a real PITA
3- If you ever want to add scale pads to this setup, I don't think your slip plates will work, they'll overhang onto the scale pad frame itself and cause some weight corner weight readings. Folded up trash bags work really well as slip plates FYI
Definitely not trying to give you a hard time, so don't take it that way... What you've done here is something I and a lot of others have thought about doing but never have, definitely beats paying $450+ for smart strings. Let me know if you have any other DIY scaling/aligning questions, I can probably help out
Thanks for the advice, I do appreciate it and haven't taken it the wrong way. Been following and learning from your thread(s) for a while now :) Actually I do have a question for you as someone whose used smart strings in the past. What was your preferred method for measuring distances string to rim? I used a digital caliper. Also definitely wouldve been easier with 2 people so I didn't have to keep rolling under the car to adjust, then get up measure, then roll under etc... good ab workout lol
Literally just finished the setup a few mins ago. Taking it for a drive to see how it feels. Targeted .15 total degrees toe in and 3.3 degrees camber up front. Didn't touch the rear since it's a pita to adjust and hasn't been messed with since the last alignment. Measured it anyway and found .45 deg total toe in (.14 left and .31 right) and 2.3 deg negative camber each side. The posilock rear adjusters dont quite give the fine tuning of the other type... oh well.
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Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View PostLol you're pretty much spot on with each of your tips. The bumper shock mounts are definitely overkill and I came to that conclusion not 30 mins ago. I planned to make a universal bracket anyway. Taking the bumpers off is an irritating and unnecessary step. The square bars across the front and rear may definitely become irritating in the future, I already observed this as I tightened the knobs holding it in place and it pulled it ever so slightly left/right. The slip pads worked great so far but I see how they may not be ideal with scales... didn't think that far ahead... but that said I already got a good eye for dropping the car dead center and allowing room for the wheels to spread but still end up centered. Time will tell.
Thanks for the advice, I do appreciate it and haven't taken it the wrong way. Been following and learning from your thread(s) for a while now :) Actually I do have a question for you as someone whose used smart strings in the past. What was your preferred method for measuring distances string to rim? I used a digital caliper. Also definitely wouldve been easier with 2 people so I didn't have to keep rolling under the car to adjust, then get up measure, then roll under etc... good ab workout lol
Literally just finished the setup a few mins ago. Taking it for a drive to see how it feels. Targeted .15 total degrees toe in and 3.3 degrees camber up front. Didn't touch the rear since it's a pita to adjust and hasn't been messed with since the last alignment. Measured it anyway and found .45 deg total toe in (.14 left and .31 right) and 2.3 deg negative camber each side. The posilock rear adjusters dont quite give the fine tuning of the other type... oh well.
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To square up the strings on the car, I'll always measure from the lip of the hub itself if it's nicely machined or the flat part around the inner hub of the wheel. Something as close as possible to the centerline of the hub so your box isn't affected so much by the toe being out. Always a good idea to go back and check the box a few times as you go, a string bar that's shifted 1 or 2mm over on one axle can throw you off on the other.- '88 m54 coupe
<3
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Changing the subject a bit.
And this is probably more a lack of knowledge from my end,,,,
You know how you put in a Z3m shifter in your e30 and it didn't feel right?
It worked better on the E36 328ic.
Why would there be a difference (in notchiness)?
To my knowledge, the E36 M3 tranny and E36 328i are identical.
I am assuming you are running an E36 tranny in the E30 with the swap.
Javier
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Originally posted by Motheye99 View PostHave you gotten those AKG CAB's installed? I'd like to know what there like on the street.
Originally posted by Jb325is View PostSomething like this is what I've always used. Buy a bunch because they disappear like a 10mm socket- https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Gauge-S.../dp/B00FG96NY2
To square up the strings on the car, I'll always measure from the lip of the hub itself if it's nicely machined or the flat part around the inner hub of the wheel. Something as close as possible to the centerline of the hub so your box isn't affected so much by the toe being out. Always a good idea to go back and check the box a few times as you go, a string bar that's shifted 1 or 2mm over on one axle can throw you off on the other.
Originally posted by Javier h View PostChanging the subject a bit.
And this is probably more a lack of knowledge from my end,,,,
You know how you put in a Z3m shifter in your e30 and it didn't feel right?
It worked better on the E36 328ic.
Why would there be a difference (in notchiness)?
To my knowledge, the E36 M3 tranny and E36 328i are identical.
I am assuming you are running an E36 tranny in the E30 with the swap.
Javier
In my e36 I benefit both from the zf transmission (and mine is very smooth) as well as a better selector rod angle. It is a bit notchier than before though, but that's just an intrinsic byproduct of doing a short shifter at all, especially tunnel mounted (mine is also tunnel mounted in my e36).
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After finishing the alignment on Saturday I went for Supercar Sunday the next morning and then a rip in the canyons. Car feels fantastic. Everything just feels "right". I think I can say at this point that this is the best the car has ever felt. Everything is dialed in to just the right level.
My friend and I actually co-drove since his porsche was in storage. Dont think we ever did that before and man it was a blast. Lot of fun to be able to talk through the cars performance and the road as we drove. I also got to ride in my own car, in the canyons, driven aggressively... that was a first and I loved it
Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkLast edited by Sh3rpak!ng; 06-26-2019, 09:38 AM.
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Originally posted by wworm View PostI love this car. The depth and detail is great. Hows the e36 coming along?
E36 has been great! I've been utterly lazy about updating that thread. It's been my 100% daily driver now for around 6 months. Just replaced the convertible top and some associated hardware so now the top goes up and down on its own for the first time in probably 8 years or so. Detailed it too so it's looking fresh. Still have some small projects to take care of such as interior detail, cold air intake box, reassemble and install the M3 mirrors, powdercoat the calipers blood red (to match other accents), fix minor exhaust leak... little by little I'll clear them out
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Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View PostThe purple dash?
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The yellow marker on the tires!My previous build (currently E30-less)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=170390
A 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4x4 Offroad in Inferno is my newest obsession
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