89 325 Vert light fixer-upper Craigslist steal

[jrossowvue30]

I've been away from the e30 game for the better part of 8 years. I used to daily a 87 325e in college and for a short time after then moved onto a couple different e36's (318ti, M3) and then became a grown up and bought a 04 e60 525i 6-speed, with a lot of other makes and models in there as well. A few years ago I traded my Scirocco for a 85 325e sedan but only kept that long enough to sell. So from Fall of 09 to last weekend I was largely e30-less. I always kept my eye on the market but never really found one that was cheap enough to pick-up as a fixer, or a fixer that didn't need that much work. Currently no garage, limited tools and limited time pretty much kept me away from getting back into another e30.

Last Sunday (9/17) I was watching some football and browsing online when an ad popped up on craigslist for a 1989 325 convertible, running but not really driving, been sitting for years, exhaust hacked off and no title. Lots of new parts including a new top, shocks and brakes all the way around. Price: $250! The guy claimed a rebuilt head and new timing belt during his ownership but no documentation. The ad was an hour old, email only but for some reason he included his actual address in the ad. I emailed him, then got anxious so I hopped in the car and started to rush over. He replied pretty quickly and said he wouldn't be home until 9pm but that I was the first to see it i I could be thee at 9. It was 6:30, I was anxious, what if someone else just showed up in between the time he got home and I could get there and snatched it out from under me. He emails me to tell me he is home and I rush over.

The guy had a sweet setup in his backyard. Quonset, lift, serious tool bench, lots of toys/projects. I get there and the guy couldn't be nicer, explains he bought it with a buddy a few years ago to fix and sell, bought it cheap so selling cheap. He actually did have a title, but it had been written on so was void (been there done that with a written on title in Va) so I know it likely wasn't stolen. It was dirty, but the paint looked very clean underneath all the grime. The interior was mismatched, but off to the side of the garage the original interior sat. He started it up and it idled okay but would die when given too much gas. We put it on the lift so I could check it all out underneath, it was unbelievably clean and rust free. Sure enough, new brakes, shocks, control arms, bushings, brand new gas tank, trans filter, gasket and fluid. I couldn't believe it, I handed over the cash and agreed to be back the next day with a trailer to get it gone before he got home from work.

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Sorry for not get getting any before pics, I was so ready to clean it and start the process of getting it back on the road. It sat for a while, water got inside and sat so mildew and just general stale air and awful smell. I stripped it out, seats, trash, doorcards and gave everything a vinegar wash. The back seats and passenger seat are in great shape, the driver's seat looks like a previous owner weighed 500 lbs. The paint is not original but very presentable. There is some trash in the paint but nothing a cut and polish won't make better. The worst spot is on the hood where it looks like someone had the oil cap off and on the intake and closed the hood (perfect spider web).

Next was to tackle the dying when gas is applied. When I got it the airbox and MAF were out of the engine bay. I put that back in, inspected the intake boot for cracks and fired it up but the problem still existed, I suspected it would but was hoping I would get lucky. Knowing what I know from my 87 325e I know I have a fuel delivery issue. Also knowing it has a new tank and pump I went ahead and got a new fuel filter and pressure regulator. I replaced the regulator and now it revs much better, not great, but it at least revs. Now it doesn't want to idle. I suspect my MAF might be bad and that's why it was out of the car when I got it. I'm on the hunt for a good used one, but keep missing on them and there are no e30's in my local yard. In addition to that, the starter has an issue of some sort, or the wire for the unloader relays isn't grounded properly because I have the whole no windows, no blower. The top also won't go down and the cable to unlock the boot lid cover won't unlatch the left side.

My main concern is to get this up and running, then get the exhaust taken care of, then the top and interior, then enjoy. Oh, and a 5-speed swap.

If anyone knows of any tricks to get the boot lid unlatched with a broken release cable please let me know, google has turned up that there is a screw driver "trick" but nobody has disclosed it and I'm not really sure how to search this site for it since there isn't really a specific "keyword" to search for it, at least not one I've keyed into a search.

Anyway, excited to say the least about being back in an e30 and this one is pretty much my speed as far as what it needs (and doesn't need).

[parkerbink]

Cool deal, pics are dead.

[TFJR]

You stole that thing for $250! Looks like a great basis for a light restoration. Keep us updated. I miss Richmond, VA. I love Cary town.

Take care.

[E30CCARob]

Hey I think we have the same wheels! As far as the top not unlatching, when you say left side do you mean the passenger side? Get the top in the halfway-open position (unlatch fronts, pull the front up some and then pull the back up, use a piece of 2x4 or something to support it) then you should be able to reach a screwdriver in the little flap cover on top of your rear card and push the latch out of the catch. Might need to use a shim or something to hold up the tonneau cover so you can get both sides, the latches should be sprung. This is assuming yours is a manual top. When I converted mine to manual top, I just got rid of the passenger side latch. I could never get it to work well and it would keep getting stuck like that. If it's a power top, get the top in the halfway-open position and turn the motor with the allen tool. Hope this helps!

[jrossowvue30]

Hey I think we have the same wheels! As far as the top not unlatching, when you say left side do you mean the passenger side? Get the top in the halfway-open position (unlatch fronts, pull the front up some and then pull the back up, use a piece of 2x4 or something to support it) then you should be able to reach a screwdriver in the little flap cover on top of your rear card and push the latch out of the catch. Might need to use a shim or something to hold up the tonneau cover so you can get both sides, the latches should be sprung. This is assuming yours is a manual top. When I converted mine to manual top, I just got rid of the passenger side latch. I could never get it to work well and it would keep getting stuck like that. If it's a power top, get the top in the halfway-open position and turn the motor with the allen tool. Hope this helps!

Thanks or the advice about the top. It is a manual and actually by left side I mean the diver side is stuck. I can pop the passenger side with the cable.

Fittipaldi Monolithics but I'm missing the caps. I'e got a set of RS 001's from my old 87 that I think will be going on when it's ready or driving.

[BimrFett]

She's a beautiful steal! Congrats! It's always nice to see another Va E30 rescued. Good luck with the project!

[jrossowvue30]

So I spent some time fiddling with my stuck top. I was able to sort of figure it out by looking at the passenger side and where it latches/unlatches. It was tricky on the driver side, I could hardly see with the top frame in the way but I was able to locate the latch and the little hook the holds it down. After struggling to pop the latch with a screwdriver I was almost able to pop it free, but not quite. As luck would happen in my favor the sun moved into the right spot and I was able to get enough light into that little space to see what was happening. I'm not sure I can quite put into words what I did but basically I put the screwdriver on the bottom curve of the hook and hammered down on the screwdriver ever so delicately until it popped over the loop and released.
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So my next move was to figure out the best was to keep this top in working order until I can get this to a convertible top repair shop. I do not have the skill or patience to deal with cables and all that bs. I decided to first just remove the loop that latches into the latch, so I did. Then I remembered that the car came with a soft vinyl boot cover.
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There are little hooks and lips that look like this top should just fit into place then use the hooks to secure it. However, this cover is just a bit too big. I just assumed it was for this car but now I'm not so sure. I'd love something like this so that the manual top would become even more simplistic. I'm not sure if this cover is supposed to bow up in the middle in order for it to fit but if anyone has one and knows I'd love to know how others have made this boot cover work.

Anyway, I'm still waiting on parts and registration so driving it isn't an option but I'm glad I was able to make a little progress today.
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[jrossowvue30]

So I got a replacement MAF that was recently refurbished by Bavarian Restoration. I installed that this morning. The car seems to rev very well, where as before it sputtered and was sluggish. However the car still doesn't want to idle. My old e30 had straight pipe exhaust and idled just fine and wasn't that loud, but was loud under throttle. This car is incredibly loud at idle and under throttle. The exhaust was cut off right at the manifolds, would the lack of tailpipes beyond the manifolds really make that big of a difference? This thing idles like it has a super aggressive cam like its loping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OR_T...ature=youtu.be

I also got something in the mail today that makes this car legal again...
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I've been treating the seats and door cars to a healthy vinegar treatment for mildew and soaking the seats in leather conditioner. Getting close to getting this thing to the point where I can drive it.

[brickwhite]

Why Vermont? Will they title anything?

[wilholl]

The exhaust was cut off right at the manifolds, would the lack of tailpipes beyond the manifolds really make that big of a difference? This thing idles like it has a super aggressive cam like its loping.

If the exhaust is cut off at the manifolds, you will be missing an o2 sensor.
It will probably run better with a sensor

[jrossowvue30]

If the exhaust is cut off at the manifolds, you will be missing an o2 sensor.
It will probably run better with a sensor

Actually it has the o2 sensor bung as its cut off just past that. No different with it plugged in or unplugged. I was under the impression that these cars run better without the o2 sensor.

And Vermont because they actually don't title cars older than 15+ years, thus they don't require a title to transfer ownership of cars 15+ years old. Va wouldn't title this so I'm glad Vermont will take your money no matter where you reside.

[jrossowvue30]

Sooooo... After a couple years away from this "project" I finally have the time to come back around. I have had a lot going on and therefore really haven't been able to do anything with this car. I also just sold my e36 M3, which I had for almost 9 years, which was hard to do but it was time to go. So, with the sale of the M3 I now have some cash. Also, I have some free time. I also have a garage for the first time to take advantage of. I will be moving into the garage this weekend.

So the goal is still the same, figure out why this car doesn't want to idle properly. I have found a few air leaks, but figure there are still a few more. Since my last posting I bought a smoke tester so I won't be randomly spaying carb cleaner into and on my engine to to search for leaks. I also bought some exhaust components to replace the hacked out, rotted out exhaust system that was removed by the PO. I am also planning to pick up a totaled 87 325e as a parts car on Monday. That is said to have a known good getrag 260, and hopefully other odds and ends I will inevitably need as I dig further in.

The goal is to get it up and running well enough to drive as is then 5 speed swap it.

In addition to the poor idle, I have what seems to be pretty common e30 convertible battery tray rust. I was aware of this, as I discovered it when I was investigating why my carpet was wet. Once I removed the battery I found the true extent of the damage, there is a nice sized hole in the firewall where the tray meets it. Any other vert guys care to chime in who have had this issue? What has everyone done to fix this? I am no welder so this one is probably above my ability. I was reading a thread of a guy who used fiberglass to patch it. I am good with resin based fiberglass repairs but have never used it to close a hole in sheet metal.
Image (4) by J Ross, on Flickr
Image (5) by J Ross, on Flickr

Also, I never noticed this missing, but did today. What would be plugged into what is circled?
Image (6) by J Ross, on Flickr

[jrossowvue30]

Treated the old guy to some fresh gas. I really did not get much of anything done but I did get it moved into the garage. The gas gauge was reading almost empty and there is a gas station about a quarter of the way between where it had been parked, and where it will now reside. I figured that was a good way to break the 4 mile trip up.
Untitled by J Ross, on Flickr
Untitled by J Ross, on Flickr

The car is loud as hell and I was unsure of the road-worthyness so I waited until after dark when there would be less traffic. Turns out that probably was not necessary since the car drove surprisingly well. Its filthy, so tomorrow I will give it a much needed wash. For now it sits under a roof for the first time in forever, next to his older brother.
Untitled by J Ross, on Flickr

It feels good to have driven it and to have it in the garage. I put the top down so it can air out. I'm looking forward to really being able to get this going.

[jrossowvue30]

So yesterday I bought a parts car for the 5 speed swap I plan to do. It’s a complete car that ran/drove when parked. It’s been laid up in the sellers back yard for a year or so and in that time he lost the keys. He had a title and was cool enough to go to the dealership with me to get a new key. The dealership checks his ID and the title then orders the key and I pay $65. Told it will be ready for pick up today. Call this morning and it isn’t in, said I probably didn’t make the cut off to get the order in and that it would be in tomorrow morning. A few hours later I get a call from the parts department saying they can’t cut the key from the VIN. The guy tells me to look for a code that starts “BN” and that will be what they need to cut the key. He said it would be on the ignition (it isn’t) or on a door sticker (it isn’t).

So, at this point I’m sitting in my newly bought parts car with a locked steering wheel, no key and no way of getting it home. The dealership is no help. I have already sacrificed the steering column shroud to look for any and all codes and there are none. I’m about to say screw it and hammer a screwdriver into the ignition.

Before I do that does anyone have any other things to try before I go that route? I really don’t want to do that if I do not have to but this is a parts car and will eventually become a roller. I just really need to get the steering wheel unlocked so I can roll it onto a trailer.

[Slybeanx]

So yesterday I bought a parts car for the 5 speed swap I plan to do. It’s a complete car that ran/drove when parked. It’s been laid up in the sellers back yard for a year or so and in that time he lost the keys. He had a title and was cool enough to go to the dealership with me to get a new key. The dealership checks his ID and the title then orders the key and I pay $65. Told it will be ready for pick up today. Call this morning and it isn’t in, said I probably didn’t make the cut off to get the order in and that it would be in tomorrow morning. A few hours later I get a call from the parts department saying they can’t cut the key from the VIN. The guy tells me to look for a code that starts “BN” and that will be what they need to cut the key. He said it would be on the ignition (it isn’t) or on a door sticker (it isn’t).

So, at this point I’m sitting in my newly bought parts car with a locked steering wheel, no key and no way of getting it home. The dealership is no help. I have already sacrificed the steering column shroud to look for any and all codes and there are none. I’m about to say screw it and hammer a screwdriver into the ignition.

Before I do that does anyone have any other things to try before I go that route? I really don’t want to do that if I do not have to but this is a parts car and will eventually become a roller. I just really need to get the steering wheel unlocked so I can roll it onto a trailer.

I've heard a locksmith can cut you a key with proper title etc. Havnt done it personally so maybe call a few places.