got a new toy in the mail today...

[Super Eta]

I am sorry but i am not familiar with this toy so if someone can be nice enough to tell me what it does that would be greatly appreciated. :oops: (god i feel dumb)

-Ryan :loco: im confused

[skat 325is]

Supereta, visit the link diego posted in the 1st page.

Think of it as giving you stock ECU a good dose of steroids :P

[Super Eta]

Supereta, visit the link diego posted in the 1st page.

Think of it as giving you stock ECU a good dose of steroids :P

ECU on steriods ha ha.

Oops i must have scrolled pasted the link my bad.

[mspiegle]

well, i wired up the stuff for the AFM....


and my car wouldn't start.


gunni said i would be kicking myself over the deflection which i tapped into the analog wires for... honestly, i think this wiring diagram i have is crap. The wires the diagram has labeled as use for GROUND doesn't even exist. I think i just need to find a pinout diagram for the SMT6 and a pinout for my ECU in the TIS or Bentley and do it myself. Oh well, we'll see what happens today.

[skat 325is]

Did you compared the ecu diagrams from this page:

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru:8001/CAR/BMW/1989/325i/WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/

btw,

would it be too much to ask, if you get it working to take pics of wich wires did you tapped into, just for future reference.

[mspiegle]

ok, here is what i came across... (i got it working this morning)

The smt6 diagram says to use the following wires:

37 - power
19 - ground
7 - afm
47 - crank

now, pin 37 did NOT exist on my ecu connector. That bothered me greatly because i had no idea if the rest of the wires were right. Anywho, i found pin 1 and pin 19 to supply me with a good 12v DC when the car was in the ON position (exactly what i wanted - or so i thought).

I tried countless times to crank the car over, but it just wouldn't start. Totally confused, i disconnected the SMT6 from the harness and put in my 'jumper' connector. Car started right up. Damn, i'm glad i made that thing.

I plugged the SMT6 back in, no start.

Totally baffled, i took out the jumper AND the SMT6 and my car STILL started. I was under the impression that without an AFM signal, the car would not start. I was later informed by barry/reelizmpro that it would start but run like crap.

So, this morning barry came down and we started working on it a bit. No matter what i did, the car wouldn't start. In some fustration, i left the smt6 connected, cut the afm IN and afm OUT wires and the car STILL WOULDNT start. At this point, ALL I had hooked up were the power wires. That made absolutely NO sense. I clipped the power wires and the car started right up.

Just for testing purposes, i changed the power over to the glove box light. Yeah, it was an always-on source, but at least i knew that it was a good source. I rehooked up the afm wires and the car started right up.

So, aparently, there was something wierd w/ that power that i tapped into on the ecu harness because when using that - my car would not start. I have no idea why, maybe it would be a good idea for me to find out what those 2 pins were.

At this point, the SMT6 works great. The AFM signal was indeed correct on the wire diagram, and pin47 is the proper pin to detect the current RPM. Just find yourself a better power line and you should be set!

And yeah, i'll get some pics up i guess. It looks like CRAP right now becuase i was hacking it all this morning. If i remmeber correctly... on the ecu, the afm signal was a yellow/grey wire and the crank was a black wire.

[skat 325is]

Hmmm, damn thats wierd.

What year is your car ?

I know theres like 3 diagrams for e30 i'll have to compare the 3 of them.

[mspiegle]

i think all 3 are the same. I have an '87 325is

Ok, so for the first time, i have driven my car with the SMT and had time to mess w/ the maps and whatnot.

The changes that are made are instant. I stored safety settings (a zeroed map) on map B and i was messing with map A. Map A was basically dumping a bunch of fuel into the motor. My car began to idle funny so i put less fuel in the idle rpms and low deflection and that seemed to help. If I go from my 'dump fuel' map to the safety map while i'm driving, you can tell that there is a slight loss in power. Nothing significant, but enough to be noticeable.

Right now, i'm gonna go back down and clean up my wiring and start making my first map. I'm just trying to adjust for an average 13:1 AFR. My car stock runs 14.6 - 15.

Here are some pictures of my incredibly shitting wiring. Dont bash me, i do good work when i'm ready.

[flyingbrick]

yea someone else wiring that looks like an art project (besides me)

j\k

[schnitzer teil-jäger]

OK,
does it give a variable redline? can i program a 7250 rpm redline?
does it allow a different idle speed?
Is there enough flexability to matcha 304 cam? using the stock ecu/chip
wes

[skat 325is]

Damn, i dont know if i should install it yet, i still dont have a laptop :(

[mspiegle]

@schnitzer teil-jäger: i'm assuming you mean rev limiter. The SMT6 can't lift a rev limiter as that is programmed into your ecu chip. It can however create a rev limit.
I don't think it changes idle speed, that's what your throttle cable is for. You can change the amount of fuel going to the engine at idle though.
And i'm not sure about the 304 cam... you should probably ask gunni.

@skat 325is: you can install it, you just won't be able to 'use' it. I think the SMT comes with a zeroed out map - meaning your car would run at stock settings and it would almost be as if the SMT wasn't installed. I however suggest against trying to wire it all up at once and hoping it works when you turn the key. If you have a laptop, you can test the unit while youre hooking up the wires so you know if you got the right signals. Like hookup power, check laptop to see if it can communicate with SMT. Hook up AFM, then see if the laptop can see your AFM signal. Then hookup crank, and start ur motor to see if it can read RPMs.

I pretty much finished it for now. I'm still having an issue finding a good ignition-on power from the ecu harness. I thought I had found another one, but for some reason it gave me crazy results. My car would start up and then just die. I could try to hold the RPMs up after it was started, but as soon as i let off the throttle, it would die again. I thought it my was ecu freaking out because i had it unplugged so i held the rpms at 2.5, shifted into drive and then it started to bog. I floored the pedal and nothing happened for 3 seconds, then all of a sudden my car launches forward and starts accelerating normally, when it hits about 4-5, it just craps out again, then launches forward, then craps out. Really fricken wierd. When I got to a stop sign, my car stalled so i unplugged the smt and put on my jumper connector in about 5 seconds and my car ran fine. I pulled into an empty lot and started re-wiring the hot and a cop pulled up and almost arrested me because he thought i was trying to steal/hotwire a car. I'm going to tap off the stereo power tomorrow. Right now, the smt6 is just hooked to a constant hot.

Here's some pictures:

Completed harness


quick-release connector


wire splicing


smt6 crammed up in the top

[skat 325is]

Hell of a job you did there man.

[gstuning]

Excellent work

With the smt6 you can raise the idle speed by putting more fuel at idle speed, that will make idle speed rise,

A new revlimit can be set before the stock revlimit, i.e you can just have the smt6 cut the ignition signal to the coil at a specific rpm, with the on/off function, you will need a relay for that tough

There is one way of raising the redline and that is running the smt6 as a standalone ignition system, that requires an external ignition amplifier and using the stock crank signal, also it will require a comlete retune of the ignition at all loads and rpms
Alot of time if you don´t have a dyno

[diegom6]

so, you can't pass the factory revs with smt6 unless yuo put a standalone system or cutting a wire that runs to the coil? what? :?: