I just noticed that the spindle in the first pic has the tops of the brake mounts ground down. So, I'm thinking these are non-M spindles and that mod allowed the M brakes to bolt right up.
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Coilovers make uncentered wheels worse?
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Look at the picture of the 2 control arms... see how the new arm has the center of the ball joint hole pushed forward more than the old arm? That new arm is a legit M3 arm that you want, the other looks to just be a standard arm. The spindle pictures tell the same kind of story... check out the centerline of the balljoint hole vs. the lower rear strut mounting hole. On the spindle that was on your car, the hole centerlines match up, on the new spindle they do not. The differences are subtle, but they do matter when you're looking at where the wheel sits in relationship to the wheel opening, once everything is bolted together. At least now you know where your problem lies... change it around when you have time.
Garey
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Originally posted by carlb View PostSo, where the heck does one find a 46mm socket? No luck at any auto store or sears.
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Garey
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Thanks. I'll check it out. That's a big-ass fracking nut. Tool search keeps slowing my roll!
Sent from my PI39100 using Board Express1985 M635csi Black on Buffalo
1985 535is Zinno on Black
1985 M635csi White on Pacific Blue
1988 M3 Lachssilber on Black (sold)
1987 M3 Zinno on Black (totaled)
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Originally posted by carlb View PostThanks. I'll check it out. That's a big-ass fracking nut. Tool search keeps slowing my roll!
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Garey
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Originally posted by MR 325 View PostImpact is what I prefer. ;)
Originally posted by ROLLingKINGi have a bronzit and plan on making it look sweet.Originally posted by slammin.e28Moral of this story?
If you drive your e30 on stairs, you're gonna have a bad time.
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Am I the only one who can't get the rotor bolts off. They are both seized. I've put plenty of liquid wrench on them. Waited a long time. They won't budge. The passenger side one is now stripped. And, I'm thoroughly frustrated as if it's not one thing, it's another.
Thought about replacing the whole hub/wheel bearing assembly and new rotors and just trashing the whole lot. But, it seems there's that dust shield thing that is apparently more than just a dust shield between the spindle and the wheel bearing hub.
Any advice? Thx.1985 M635csi Black on Buffalo
1985 535is Zinno on Black
1985 M635csi White on Pacific Blue
1988 M3 Lachssilber on Black (sold)
1987 M3 Zinno on Black (totaled)
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Drill them out.For all things 24v, check out Markert Motorworks!Originally posted by mbonanniI hate modded emtree, I hate modded cawrz, I hate jdm, I hate swag, I hate stanceyolokids, I hate bags (on cars), I hate stuff that is slowz, I hate tires.
I am a pursit now.
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LOL. I figured out I can change the bearing/wheel assembly + rotors together with no problems. Don't know why I didn't just give that a try yesterday. But, on the way back from buying some better drill bits it hit me as an obvious thing to try. Doh!
I'm just going to replace the bearings anyway since I'm in there and they will at this point be the only item that I haven't replaced (save the M3 brake calipers) in my front suspension. So, it just make sense to get that done too.
This suspension on this car has been fubar'd since the beginning. I'm hoping that - after replacing virtually all of it - that I'm good to go and I can drive the heck out of the car until my engine swap gets going <fingers crossed>1985 M635csi Black on Buffalo
1985 535is Zinno on Black
1985 M635csi White on Pacific Blue
1988 M3 Lachssilber on Black (sold)
1987 M3 Zinno on Black (totaled)
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Originally posted by yanal View PostThanks for the detailed answer Garey, I have a proper setup in my car using all of the correct parts and the wheels sit perfectly, so hopefully I wouldn't have a problem when I switch to a shorter housings.
OP I'd use screws extractor, they're around $10 from Sears and works perfectly.
Wheels are almost perfectly centered.
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