Originally posted by julianaM42
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DIY - Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
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Great writeup, good to know!
Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/1985 325e M50TU(Sold)
1991 318is Slicktop (Sold)
1990 325is Brilliantrot S50/5 Lug Swapped.
1992 525i Manual shitbox Winter Beater
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Originally posted by TimKninja View PostGreat writeup, good to know!
Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/
I'm going to do all the bushings front/rear, shocks, springs, fuel tank.... basically everything under the car all at once. Any tips? What has to come off and what can stay on the subframe if I remove the whole thing as a unit?- Josh
1990 325is
Need a shift boot?
Looking to buy shift boot frames, PM if you have one to sell
Here's what happens when you let the internet pick your license plate
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Originally posted by brianpgriset View PostNo complaints thus far. My biggest concern was them squeaking but they have been nice and quiet.
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Originally posted by 10Toes View PostI think it would be easier to just drop the whole subframe, no messing with half shafts just undo the trailing arm bolts once droped and pop them out of the diff.Originally posted by nrubenstein View Postjust drop the whole subframe. it is vastly easier and requires much less painstaking disassembly. plus, you can address lots of other issues while you are in there.Originally posted by Cronopoulos View PostI dropped the whole rear assembly out, separated the trailing arms from the sub-frame and pressed out the bushings just hanging there. I didn't have to mess with the e-brake assembly or anything else of that sort.Originally posted by TimKninja View Post
Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/
Really consider going with the OE rubber bushings. Everyone thinks the urethane is so much better cause their bushings were so worn out in the first place, but if they'd just gone with the OE they would realize how great it is and they wouldn't be complaining about all the noise and creaking the urethane makes. And remember to tighten the TAB's with the suspension loaded, otherwise you'll eventually end up doing the job again. Tip:You'll need a ratcheting wrench. The space is tight, but it works.
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Originally posted by TrentW View PostAnd remember to tighten the TAB's with the suspension loaded, otherwise you'll eventually end up doing the job again. Tip:You'll need a ratcheting wrench. The space is tight, but it works.
Also, how do you guys lube urethane? On the outside of the bushing where it fits on the trailing arm, on the inside between the urethane and the metal sleeve, between the metal sleeve and the bolt, or just everywhere/a combination?The first car I ever rode in was an e30
Originally posted by Cabriolet
Wish you the best and hope you don't remember anything after 10pm.
1992 Mauritiusblau Vert
2011 Alpinweiss 335is coupe
2002 540i/6 Black/Black
2003 GSX-R 750 (RIP)
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Originally posted by Vivek View PostWhy is this? I don't wanna do this twice lol (and I've already done it all once).
Again, I used OE rubber bushings, but the same rule applies.
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Originally posted by mr.vang View Postthose powerflex look dark blue. i thought they were suppose to be purple? its the street kit right?
I didn't drop the subframe as the po had just recently replaced the subframe bushings.
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Where is the proper place to put the rear jack stands when removing the rear subframe? I want to lower it a bit so I don't have to empty my gas tank(it's full) to get the passenger inner bolt out.
When re torquing the bolts, can I just jack the trailing arm up to simulate a loaded suspension?
What's the torque spec on thoseT/A bolts? Fck they were/are tight!Originally posted by codyep3I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
2010 F650gs twin
2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather
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Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View PostWhere is the proper place to put the rear jack stands when removing the rear subframe? I want to lower it a bit so I don't have to empty my gas tank(it's full) to get the passenger inner bolt out.
When re torquing the bolts, can I just jack the trailing arm up to simulate a loaded suspension?
What's the torque spec on thoseT/A bolts? Fck they were/are tight!
Why would you start this job with a full tank?
I did mine with the whole subframe on the floor then raised the assembly up and secured it as a unit.
Spec is like 20-30 ft lbs iirc but they're locknuts so they stay put like glue. Get new nuts if you haven't already. You'll need them for the driveshaft and diff bushing too.- Josh
1990 325is
Need a shift boot?
Looking to buy shift boot frames, PM if you have one to sell
Here's what happens when you let the internet pick your license plate
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Lol, I store the car with a full tank. I pulled it out of storage to do this job. I didn't know the damn filler neck tube was in the way of the bolt. Stupid design. LolOriginally posted by codyep3I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
2010 F650gs twin
2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather
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