What advice do you have for a first timer swapping in a 5-speed?

[jgilber0]

Getting ready for the big 5-speed swap next week! Parts are nearly all delivered, new clutch, new hydraulics, new bushings, newly machined flywheel, rebuilt driveshaft, etc...

I've read nearly all the postings on this topic on R3V and elsewhere and I feel like we are mostly ready, but there is always something that bites you in the ass.

If you have done this job already, what is the one most important piece of advice you have for my mechanic and me?

Anything you have to share would be deeply appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Here are a few pics:











More of my photos on flickr here: https://www.flickr.com/gp/jgilber0/ev577G

[e30davie]

I personally found the most difficult part of the job removing the old auto. the auto box is way bigger than the manual box and difficult to get your hands around.

those top two bolts on the bell housing best way i have found to get them is like 3ft of socket extensions and get at them from behind and across the top of the gearbox. Once i realised this they are easy to remove.

[jgilber0]

I personally found the most difficult part of the job removing the old auto. the auto box is way bigger than the manual box and difficult to get your hands around.

those top two bolts on the bell housing best way i have found to get them is like 3ft of socket extensions and get at them from behind and across the top of the gearbox. Once i realised this they are easy to remove.

Excellent- thank you Davie! What else, guys?

[Poorhouse]

In for tips as well.

I've got the engine out so removing the automatic was easy.

You doing a short shifter?

[ButtJuice]

Don’t run a used starter like I did, get a new one. Replacing a starter is a b*tch when everything is installed. Also, if you ever plan on upgrading your shifter items the best time to do it is now. Dual sheer selector rod (DSSR), shorter shift kit, bushing replacement, etc.

[Joegreen02]

Lock tight the flywheel bolts. Rear main seal while you're there. Input shaft seal on the trans. Pilot bearing should go without saying.. Brass pivot pin on the trans. Find a starter that is threaded if you can. Guibo.


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[Beamerboi]

That pedal assembly too hard to get I just swap bolt instead on the existing one.

[jgilber0]

In for tips as well.

I've got the engine out so removing the automatic was easy.

You doing a short shifter?

Just stock, nothing fancy. She’s a cruiser.

[jgilber0]

Don’t run a used starter like I did, get a new one. Replacing a starter is a b*tch when everything is installed. Also, if you ever plan on upgrading your shifter items the best time to do it is now. Dual sheer selector rod (DSSR), shorter shift kit, bushing replacement, etc.

I’m trying to keep cost at an absolute minimum, so sticking with stock shifter. We are replacing all the bushings, the cup, etc...

My starter is working great, any reason to replace it other than concern about future failure? Is the same starter used with manuals? Nothing I’ve read seems to indicate that it needs to come out.

Thank you for your help!

[jgilber0]

Lock tight the flywheel bolts. Rear main seal while you're there. Input shaft seal on the trans. Pilot bearing should go without saying.. Brass pivot pin on the trans. Find a starter that is threaded if you can. Guibo.


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Totally agree on the rear main seal and input shaft seal. We have a new pilot bearing going in, and I’m using brand new OEM flywheel bolts with Loctite on them already.

Brass pivot pin: Really necessary? Do the plastic pivot pins really wear out with normal driving? I’m only driving the car 3 or 4K a year.

Thanks Joe!

[jgilber0]

That pedal assembly too hard to get I just swap bolt instead on the existing one.

Will try that - thanks. Looks difficult to swap the whole airbag pedal assembly.

[e30davie]

Don't replace a rear main that isn't leaking.

[gath]

Don't replace a rear main that isn't leaking.

Elaborate please.

[jgilber0]

Elaborate please.

Why is that, please? Likely to mess it up?

[Poorhouse]

Brass pivot pin: Really necessary? Do the plastic pivot pins really wear out with normal driving? I’m only driving the car 3 or 4K a year.

Thanks Joe!

I've read they break very easily and frequently. I got a brass one for $15 iirc.