My M60 Mtech II dream

[P Arkus]

Thanks for the info guys. Everyone seems to be saying pump is pooched so i'll try that first. I dont have pics of the coolant pipe that I used, but its the same as this one...

[Jean]

That's the same rear accumulator pipe I am using as well, I believe these are from the 96+ m62 cars.... keep in mind some had the threaded bungs on them and some didn't .

I ended up with 3 different versions of these on hands :)

[Jean]

That's the same rear accumulator pipe I am using as well, I believe these are from the 96+ m62 cars.... keep in mind some had the threaded bungs on them and some didn't .

I ended up with 3 different versions of these on hands :)

[P Arkus]

Exactly. I was going to buy one new but didnt want to risk getting one without the threaded bungs so I waited out until I found one in the junkyard.

[e30s50dan]

What hoses fit without modification?

[P Arkus]

Got a chance to drive it around a bit yesterday which felt great. I'm starting to get used to the brakes a bit more but still planning on the BBK over winter. One thing I did notice is that the engine heats up really fast and likes to run hot. Being an aluminum engine, I wont lie it scares me a bit. Highway driving the temp needle stays right around the middle mark, but as soon as I hit a few intersections, traffic or stop lights, the needle hovers up to about 5/8 and slightly above (hasnt reached 3/4 yet though).

To everyone who has been driving their swaps for a while, is this normal or should I be worried? The standard thermostat is rated at 95Degrees C (203 degrees F). I know you can get an 85 Degree C (185 Degrees F) thermostat, but reading mixed reviews about putting colder Tstats in the M6x engines. Has anyone done this to keep the engine cooler and would you say its a worthwhile investment?

[P Arkus]

What hoses fit without modification?

Which hoses in particular are you speaking of? Coolant hoses? PS hoses? Oil lines?

[JGood]

I'm using the Mishimoto MZ3 radiator, stock thermostat, with a cheap Pep Boys 16" pusher fan, wired up to a stock BMW temp switch in the radiator. I don't remember what temp switch it is, but it kicks on just before the needle gets to half. How long it runs and how often it runs depends on ambient temp, but I've had the car idling in 100 degree weather and it's never gone above half. While moving above 25mph or so, the needle sits between 1/4 and 1/2, and the fan never runs, regardless of ambient temp.

All that said, when I first did my swap, my fan was wired backwards, and it would overheat at idle within minutes. So a working fan is 100% necessary.

[P Arkus]

Interesting. Thats really good to know. I'm running a Behr MZ3 S54 radiator, stock Tstat which a cheap pusher fan as well, but I believe my fan is only 13". Also quite sure its wired up to a stock BMW Temp switch. Perhaps I may need to look at my setup in detail and get a better flowing bigger pusher fan along with a temp switch that kicks it on sooner.

[Jean]

P Arkus - congrats on getting the swap running ! That must be a great feeling!

How are your brakes working? Specially, how is the initial pedal movement is it firm from the get go or do you have some soft pedal at first and then firm pedal?

Does the pedal return to the initial or starting position when you release the brake pedal?

Thanks!

[P Arkus]

Thanks Jean, its definitely been a long 3 years but its great to have the car back on the road! The brakes are definitely on the sketchy side. They stop, but emergency braking would be tough. The pedal is soft at the very beginning but once it bites, its firm I would say. It seems to be returning to the original position as well when I release.

[P Arkus]

Heres some engine bay shots. Havent put any of the covers on yet since im still chasing stuff.


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[Jean]

Thanks Jean, its definitely been a long 3 years but its great to have the car back on the road! The brakes are definitely on the sketchy side. They stop, but emergency braking would be tough. The pedal is soft at the very beginning but once it bites, its firm I would say. It seems to be returning to the original position as well when I release.

Did you go with Dual 5/8 as well? That sucks man, I think it's key to get the brakes working great on these swaps. I am still troubleshooting mine, if I can't get it resolve I'll probably be switching to another setup/config.

Also, interesting that you kept the late model radiator expansion tank, did you use a 540i water pump with 2 radiator hoses and connected the expansion tank to the back of the engine ?

[P Arkus]

Did you go with Dual 5/8 as well? That sucks man, I think it's key to get the brakes working great on these swaps. I am still troubleshooting mine, if I can't get it resolve I'll probably be switching to another setup/config.

Also, interesting that you kept the late model radiator expansion tank, did you use a 540i water pump with 2 radiator hoses and connected the expansion tank to the back of the engine ?

Yes, I have the dual 5/8 masters. I know i'm going to have to pull the damn pedal assembly again at some point, but I figure if i'm doing it, I might as well do it with a BBK kit installed already.

As for expansion tank, yes I'm using the 540i water pump and my expansion tank is connected to the back of the engine.

[P Arkus]

So these are the issues i'm currently facing:
1) Power Steering
2) Brakes
3) Exhaust Leak
4) Coolant Leak

For power steering I have decided i'm going to try out a PS delete. Considering its completely reversible and if I want to add PS back I can at any point in time, its worth trying to see if I like the feel. The brakes i'm getting much more used to and realize that they arent as bad, I just really need to put my foot into it. Will get the BBK this winter and go from there.

Just came back from the exhaust shop this morning and they couldnt find the exhaust leak anywhere. It sounds like a very fast ticking noise coming from the driver side of the engine, however everything looked really clean and there was no carbon residue anywhere to point to an exhaust leak. They started the car on the hoist hoping to be able to hear it. What the guy did mention is that he could hear the ticking coming from the bell housing, and said that most likely its my performance clutch. I'm running a UUC LWFW with the organic performance clutch, but I would think if it was a clutch issue there would be more than just a noise, there would be some weird feeling involved as well. The car runs and drives really smooth so i'm just confused by what could actually be making this ticking noise. I was told the chatter of the LWFW would be heard more in the gears than in the bell housing. Any thoughts?

Also seem to have sprung a coolant leak that I cant seem to hunt down. My intuition tells me its somewhere at the connections to the heater core (easiest to fix...right? lol) but all I see is a small puddle on the floor and some coolant on the bell housing of the transmission. But looking from the top its hard to see where its leaking from. Tried to run my fingers down the pipes as much as possible but still cant find it. Its causing the car to blow hot air while idling, but blows cold when the car is moving. Also bought a bigger electric fan and waiting on a 80/88 degree temp switch for the rad to kick the bigger fan on earlier. Will keep updating with some progress for anyone who might potentially be running into the same problems.