I've been chasing a drive line vibration. Had the drive shaft balanced, new centering sleeve, flex collar, center mount and u-joint. And had two out of round rims that were discovered doing road force balancing. Ended up dropping the rear sub frame and replaced all the bushings and wheel bearings. All of the parts were worn so not a total waste. Car feels much tighter, but still have the vibration at 50 mph and becomes real bad as speed increases. Doesn't matter what gear, or neutral, it is road speed related. Moved the tires, no change.
Put the car on jack stands and once in gear you can feel the vibration throughout to car. Removed the tires, still there, a little less as there is less rotational mass?
Removed the half shafts from final drive, still vibrating.
With the car in gear on the jack stands, the front of the drive shaft is smooth as silk, same for the front section in front of the center support bearing. The rear section, just behind the center support bearing, nice and smooth. Just in front of the rear u-joint you can feel the vibration.
So, the question, the final drive flange has a painted white mark on it. Does it make a difference how the rear u-joint mounts to that final drive flange?
I have a run-out gauge coming Tuesday.
Put the car on jack stands and once in gear you can feel the vibration throughout to car. Removed the tires, still there, a little less as there is less rotational mass?
Removed the half shafts from final drive, still vibrating.
With the car in gear on the jack stands, the front of the drive shaft is smooth as silk, same for the front section in front of the center support bearing. The rear section, just behind the center support bearing, nice and smooth. Just in front of the rear u-joint you can feel the vibration.
So, the question, the final drive flange has a painted white mark on it. Does it make a difference how the rear u-joint mounts to that final drive flange?
I have a run-out gauge coming Tuesday.
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