318is M42B18 won't accelerate, choaking, timing problem?

[Hugas]

Hey, maybe someone of you have any ideas engine is a little bit backfiring, max rpm 3000 cant rev more, timing chain is in it position, tried a lot different crank and and cam sensors nothing helped, engine was fully working in other car before I bought it, all wires sensors everything is from my old engine. All 4 cylinders have spark but it seems not all are working together. When you start the car engine is a little shaking, always when I start the car the rpm goes to 2000 and after 10-15 seconds drops to 1000rpm and stays and when i try to rev the engine and it stucks at 3000rpm, also tried to unplug O2 sensor, MAF nothing helped.

[othatseric]

Have you checked the order of your spark plug wires? Radiator side is plug #1 - 2 - 3 - firewall side is plug #4. The original wires should be labelled as well as on the coil pack cover. If you need an extra working coil pack message me :D -- Good luck !

[Hugas]

Yep I checked spark plug wires from coil pack several times, also tried other coil packs not helped :/

[Hugas]

Changed spark plugs to new ones, the car now can rev to the limitter, but still rough idle and then you get more then 2000rpm car makes lot of white smokes and strong petrol smell from exhaust, another thing I saw then i unplug MAF ant normal idle car goes from 1000rmp to 2000rpm is it normal?

[othatseric]

Changed spark plugs to new ones, the car now can rev to the limitter, but still rough idle and then you get more then 2000rpm car makes lot of white smokes and strong petrol smell from exhaust, another thing I saw then i unplug MAF ant normal idle car goes from 1000rmp to 2000rpm is it normal?

This sounds basically identical to my problem i had last year. I highly recommend checking your coolant temp sensor with a DMM and the intake manifold gaskets. The blue coolant sensor does affect idle more so when cold especially if it is sending bad signal to the ECU. Vacuum leaks from the manifold gaskets they are ripped or the original ones. Also have you cleaned out your ICV and looked into the "mess under the intake"? And no, when you unplug the afm the car should just stall out.

[Hugas]

So I changed all intake manifold gaskets (the old one was ripped like you said) to new ones I ordered. Checked again for vacuum leaks, also cleaned my ICV. Now everything changed. When I start a car it idles all the time from 800rpm to 1400rpm, when I try to rev it, engine stops. Also when i unplug MAF car engine stops.(a lot of gas smell) P.S changed temperature sensor. And also after i rev a car ant engine stops it is very hard to start it again, feels like it is to many petrol.

[roguetoaster]

Inspect your TPS and wiring at the connector. Look at your crank trigger wheel, the elastomer can separate and let the wheel rotate a bit thus throwing ignition timing off even if mechanical timing is spot on.

[Hugas]

When I unplug TPS sensor, engines stops idling, also rpm goes up to 2000rpm and stays.

[Hugas]

Tried another TPS sensor, checked wiring, also put on another crank pulley still the same

[othatseric]

Tried another TPS sensor, checked wiring, also put on another crank pulley still the same

Have you checked the wiring loom in the engine bay? The way you described how there might be too much fuel to start may suggest an electric issue. The ECU is trying to compensate for something?? Definitely have a close look and inspection at the wiring harness that is attached to the fuel rail. I know mine had a section of the cable crushed either by me or the PO (probably me lol)... Check for corrosion on the connector side also pop the cover off and look at the wiring inside the plastic housing. If that still doesn't help, I'd suggest removing the injectors next and cleaning them at individually. Either at home with some wiring and a 9V battery and some brake cleaner through it, or have someone service them. Or alternatively, upgrade to those mustang injectors 4 hole injectors. For me, my original injector bodies were very rusty but still worked, I opted to change them anyways just because I found those 4 hole injectors locally. I have two extra ones that are working if you are at all interested, might cut down the cost a little bit :).

[othatseric]

Also, you mentioned when you try revving the engine, it just stops. How does it stop? maybe a video at this point might help :p

[Hugas]

I will post video this evening :)

[Hugas]

Tried another diagnostic today, it showed 2 faults: first and second knock sensor fault. So my question is, can bad knock sensors cause such a mess with the engine?