Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rebuilding Futuras for E36 M3 swapped E30

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Rebuilding Futuras for E36 M3 swapped E30

    I have a set of 8.5Jx17H2E13 Futuras with almost no good lips or barrels that I'm looking at rebuilding to put on my E36 M3 swapped E30. It would be nice if they could fit well on my E36 M3 as well. I am going to bring the centers back to life but having trouble determining the specs I want for the new lips/barrels. I started out scouring the "Share your 5 lug setup and wheels thread" but my I didn't see anyone with my exact setup and I want to make sure I get this right the first time. Hoping you can help. Here's the relevant car specs:

    '91 318is
    Billstein PSS9 coilovers
    Ground Control camber kit
    E36 M3 brakes
    E36 M3 control arms
    318ti shocks and springs

    '96 M3
    Billstein PSS9 coilovers

    Also while we're here, what's the best place to buy new wheel hardware for this rebuild?

    #2
    If you want to use original hardware, there is no new source. The 10 point bolts and nuts are no longer made.

    I've bought my OZ wheel hardware (AC Schnitzer Type I) from a guy named Ingolf, he used to have an ebay account named 1st-german. He's been reliable for me, I bought two original OZ inner barrels, and a full set of wheel hardware. All were in pretty good shape, and shipping from Germany was pretty reasonable to the US.

    Here is his email:
    nurgutes@gmx.de

    He also goes by username: fidrio on various mercedes and bmw forums.

    Please don't put 12 point BBS style bolts on your wheels, spoils some of the uniqueness of OZ wheels...
    The 10 points are a pain, but how often do you really disassemble wheels? If you cared for convenience you wouldn't be down the 3 piece wheel hole.
    Last edited by earthwormjim; 06-12-2017, 11:42 AM.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by earthwormjim View Post
      If you want to use original hardware, there is no new source. The 10 point bolts and nuts are no longer made.

      I've bought my OZ wheel hardware (AC Schnitzer Type I) from a guy named Ingolf, he used to have an ebay account named 1st-german. He's been reliable for me, I bought two original OZ inner barrels, and a full set of wheel hardware. All were in pretty good shape, and shipping from Germany was pretty reasonable to the US.

      Here is his email:
      nurgutes@gmx.de

      He also goes by username: fidrio on various mercedes and bmw forums.

      Please don't put 12 point BBS style bolts on your wheels, spoils some of the uniqueness of OZ wheels...
      The 10 points are a pain, but how often do you really disassemble wheels? If you cared for convenience you wouldn't be down the 3 piece wheel hole.
      Thanks for the info. I guess I should have mentioned I have the original bolts. In fact all 4 wheels are still assembled but there's too many dents and dings. I just need the barrels, lips, and sizing information. Do you remember how much you paid back then?

      Also you're right about the convenience. I restored a set of 3pc Work wheels before. They were beautiful when finished but it took forever and it was a pain. I was so disappointed when they had leaks immediately, but the only lesson I learned from that was to be more careful next time.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by iblufftomuch View Post
        Thanks for the info. I guess I should have mentioned I have the original bolts. In fact all 4 wheels are still assembled but there's too many dents and dings. I just need the barrels, lips, and sizing information. Do you remember how much you paid back then?

        Also you're right about the convenience. I restored a set of 3pc Work wheels before. They were beautiful when finished but it took forever and it was a pain. I was so disappointed when they had leaks immediately, but the only lesson I learned from that was to be more careful next time.
        Didn't see your reply till now. I paid $2 per bolt.

        For OZ new old stock inner barrels, I paid $200.

        Resealing the wheels is really easy, use masking tape to get straight lines. Have the wheels assembled, but loosely bolted together. Lay down a thick bead of RTV (I used a black 3m product) all the way around the seam. Now torque the wheels together, and let the RTV cure for a few days. Do not put RTV in between the barrels, RTV should only be applied on the outside of the V channel on assembled wheels.. RTV on the mating faces will completely screw with your bolt torque, and make an absolute mess.
        Last edited by earthwormjim; 09-18-2017, 10:43 PM.

        Comment

        Working...
        X