Running really rich with an ITB switch

[Kershaw]

So I installed RHD ITBs. Only 1 cylinder came tapped for vacuum. I used brass fittings to create a junction and connected both brakes and FPR/AFR to it. I noticed on RHD's website they now use a vacuum box with multiple fittings, I assume each cylinder is now tapped. Would this be affected my AFRs?

It idles around 1500rpm (no icv now) and sounds healthy, revs great, but my AFR gauge is reading 7.7-7.8. I grabbed the whole fuel VE table and dropped it 10 points and the idle went up and the exhaust note changed and it sounded leaner. But the AFR gauge did not move. I dropped it another 10 points, sounded really lean and immediately increased in 20 points. It settled back out again. The AFR gauge did not move during any of this. I shut the car off and after a bit the AFR gauge read 16, which for an supposedly empty exhaust pipe is impressive. Before the ITB install I'd idle 14.7-15 and WOT would be a solid 13.9.

I did not change my injectors. I had to remap the TPS to whatever came with it. The values were inverted but it mapped correctly and tracks accurately. Any ideas on where I went wrong?

Edit: Once I moved the car off my lawn the grass under my cat was brown and dead. Maybe 15 minutes of run time. I've never seen that before and it sits in that spot all the time.

2nd edit: I just remembered that I noticed Fuel Load was at 100% even at idle and it stayed at 100%. That shouldn't be happening, right?

[Kershaw]

So to continue this with bad news. I had it all up and running gloriously on monday. I drove to my friends house doing some mild street tuning on the way. WOT @ 13, idle at 15, running great, pretty happy for 15 minutes of driving. I stopped for gas. Heat soak must have cause the linkage to slip (difference on expansion between aluminum and steel and I guess, because I thought it was really tight) just a bit because it acted a bit funny from there to his house.

A few hours pass and I go to leave. Everything is all screwy, nothing is running right. I start messing with things left and right in tuner studio. Can't figure it out. Friend drives me home. I come back the next day, I immediately figure out its the linkage, but now.. I can't figure out the settings I had in tuner studio. In my haste I didnt save a copy of the tune. I've been at it since, nothing I do is working.

Working off an old tune, but switched to alpha-n/itb/combination there of, I can get it to run around at decent AFRs, but the ignition is so advanced it basically diesels. And thats a stock ignition table. I am not changing the table at all. If I let off the throttle it will hold the speed and drive itself. Changing around fuel or spark on itb/alpha-n makes it idle at 2500-3000rpm, spark advance is 40 degrees. Dumping fuel from the VE table will bring the idle down to a lumpy 900. Curiously, AFRs will stay in the consistent upper 7s, regardless of how I change the fuel.

I have been PMing 318aye for a bit, I load a calibrated version of his tune. The car doesn't start. Just cranks.

I say it whatever, pay $85 to kamotors for his "itb base tune" and download his tune. Guess what? Doesn't even start the car. It just cranks. I go over everything I can think of. I go through an old non-itb tune that ran well, compare, and adjust everything that isnt directly alpha-n related. Nope, no start still.

Frustrating. I didn't realize ITBs would be this difficult. And to think I had managed to stumble on to whatever the solution was once, by luck...

[Kershaw]

IT LIVES!!

So today I check fuel and spark to see why the car is not turning on. I have spark. OK. Fuel? Fuses? Good. Relay? ... not plugged in all the way. Lol. So back to it starts and it idles at 3000rpm.

A friend suggests looking over the idle screws. I look at them. They're nearly flush. They can't possibly be the issue, it's like a fraction of a mm. I'll just take them completely out to be sure. Idle drops to 1100rpm. Hey now, we've got some progress!

I drive around, pull over, adjust the ve table, repeat a few times. Running fairly OK. Feels healthy. The only issue is that the RPMs do not drop very quickly. This could be the throttle bodies not returning to their original position? Any other thoughts on that? I know I have too much fuel in a lot of places right now. I will tune it with a friend driving and add a thicker spring and then go from there.

It sounds awesome. It has a really nice warble at WOT.

Kamotors itb tune still won't even turn on for me. Haha.

Edit: Adding a thicker spring worked well.

[kamotors]

I sent you my exact tune over email that runs my car as well as others quite well, set it for your injectors and switch wasted spark to single coil and it should get you up an running. tested the tune to 8k feet elevation than road tripped down to sea level for bimmerfest, and countless auto-x's on it. I have over a year of driving on it.
If the car didnt start on 318aye tune or mine, seems like a setting may be getting turned off/switched when you load them.

[Northern]

give your oil a quick sniff and make sure it doesn't smell like gas... a week of 10.0:1 warmups on my "untuned" 24v and the oil reeked of it.

What injectors are you running? Are you sure they're the size you think they are? Seems weird that the fuel could possibly be that far off otherwise.

[Kershaw]

Changing my oil is an excellent suggestion. Thanks.

On Tuesday a friend and I drove around for an hour and a half doing some street tuning. It pulls nicely. I still have to go back over the VE table and make sure its all smooth and even. Only issue that still needs to be resolved is a slight hesitation if I repeatedly blip the throttle.

I'll investigate further into the 318aye/kamotors tunes not working eventually, but I only have so much time and it runs. I'd rather spend the time driving it, haha.

[mr2peak]

Kershaw, join the M20 RHD ITB owners group on facebook. Owners only group.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1582279092076981/

[Kershaw]

Cool. Joined.

So to update: I got Kamotors tune running by switching AFR Load to ITB. Unfortunately it runs super rich like this. If I set Required Fuel to 23-24lbs (I have 17lb injectors) it will idle fine (14.7-15), but then it will jump to 20 AFR and intake pop if I push the throttle down quickly.

My own tune runs fairly ok. But it doesnt feel faster than the stock intake/MAP tune than I had before. I suppose once I get it to a dyno, that will be sorted out.