M50 Turbo Winter Project

[pazi88]

Don't use ego correction while tuning ve map. It will make it almost impossible to fine tune values. Alao disable AE also. Use only very slow thorttle movements when tuning VE to make sure that the required AE doesn't cause lean spikes. Only when you have whole VE table tuned, turn on the EA and adjust that so that the engine doesn't stumble when thorttle is pressed more quicly. When that is done, you can enable ego correction. But when VE table is correctly tuned, there is not much need for that.

EDIT that AFR dip is just your AE settings. The TPS dot threshold is too high. But as I said. Don't worry about those yet. Tune the VE table so that AFR is good with stable TPS and then start tuning the AE. I would also suggest changing the lowest RPM row to about 5-600 RPM. To tune that, put the car on first gear. Start driving and keep the RPM and below idle level using brake and using throttle you can reach all the map cells there. Autotune is your friend here. This works for higher RPM also.

[SirMaxximus]

Don't use ego correction while tuning ve map. It will make it almost impossible to fine tune values. Alao disable AE also. Use only very slow thorttle movements when tuning VE to make sure that the required AE doesn't cause lean spikes. Only when you have whole VE table tuned, turn on the EA and adjust that so that the engine doesn't stumble when thorttle is pressed more quicly. When that is done, you can enable ego correction. But when VE table is correctly tuned, there is not much need for that.

EDIT that AFR dip is just your AE settings. The TPS dot threshold is too high. But as I said. Don't worry about those yet. Tune the VE table so that AFR is good with stable TPS and then start tuning the AE. I would also suggest changing the lowest RPM row to about 5-600 RPM. To tune that, put the car on first gear. Start driving and keep the RPM and below idle level using brake and using throttle you can reach all the map cells there. Autotune is your friend here. This works for higher RPM also.

Thats the problem tho mate. With the AE off its totally undrivable, it'l stall trying to engage the clutch.. Or it will get going then surge and stall.. I tried it today. After some serious struggle I finally got moving, got into second gear and the AFR was good at steady throttle very briefly (around 13)... then randomly climbed to 22 and leaned out and fell on its face while driving.... unfortunately I also live in a neighborhood within the city with lots of stop signs so I'll have to find a better spot with a long un populated road, problem will be getting the car there without blowing it up! lol that might be all part of the fun, but it would be nice to boost before she pops! haha

I'll keep tryin this none the less, the lightweight flywheel and 6-puck clutch are probably not making it easier to ease the throttle either, lol. your video's have been super helpful btw I've watched a ton of them. I know the VE table's way off and that this is the place to start, I'm just having trouble actually getting it to the non-idle cells to see what it needs. I did change the VE scale a bit today as well to include 600rpm range

[SirMaxximus]

HUGE UPDATE:

All the issue's I was having with the tune are completely worked out! Got the car up and driving on the road today, drove it for about two hours letting autotune trim a ton of fat! Boost comes on quick and pulls really solid! Completely stoked! engine sounds good and healthy, exhaust sounds fantastic! Today was a big day!

I have a 7lb spring in my wastegate and the manual boost controller set all the way down.. Wastegate seems to work great, goes to about 6psi and holds strong on every pull, no spike! no creep! holds good.

I had to really bump up my AE in order to get it going and stay alive... pazi88 you were 100% right, my VE table was just that far off and causing all of my issues.. It was a scary process for the first 15 mins with some scary lean spikes at first, but it got much better very fast with autotune on.. basically getting it away from the initial stop signs and to some long stable roads to do some controlled pulls with light throttle changes was the key.

I idled it so much in the garage the last two weeks and drove so much today I had to stop and get gas near the end of the drive!



Big huge thanks to everyone thats commented and given advice, looked at my tune and datalogs! Thank you, still plenty left to do with this project but today was a big accomplishment and I finally got to just enjoy driving it!

[SirMaxximus]

Been tuning and adjusting things the last several days. tune is feeling very very solid. Megasquirt is truly awesome! really pleased with how much control I have over everything. I upped the boost to 8psi today, it will stay there for awhile. Car feels absolutely great, idles perfect, rev's out perfect, and pulls like a freight train, really happy with how the cheap ebay wastegate is holding up as well. Got the front bumper/apron trimmed to fit the intercooler and mounted up.



also put my ES badge back on... gotta remain loyal to your roots

[TheWipprSnappr]

Congrats on getting everything ironed out. Very nice work.

[SirMaxximus]

Congrats on getting everything ironed out. Very nice work.

Appreciate it mate!

[SirMaxximus]

Well guys.... as you get more and more comfortable with a car and push it harder and harder its inevitable that you'll find the weakest link. I snapped an axle last weekend! Feels like true race car problems! lol

Luckily my buddie Justin was nearby and was able to gimme a pull in his ever so dependable Volvo


Also my buddie Gabe was nice enough to let me steal his garage for a week while I found a part, towing all the way back to my house would have not been very easy. Good to have friends.


was told by a few e30 drift guys to not even bother with an aftermarket one as they hold together even worse than a used crusty OEM... so hopefully I was just a bit unlucky and here goes in another used OEM one I got from my local guy this week.


In all truthfulness, I was trying to be a bit of a show off and fishtailing around a corner when this happened, I think the tires just bite at high enough rpm to cause enough shock to the driveline.... but in hindsight, its nice to know the rest of my build is holding together under some abuse.

[wworm]

time for some burnout clips!

[notsolocal]

Could you send me your .msq file? or your fuel/ignition maps? Please lol Just to bridge off of for my own project. I'm pretty much running the same set up as you on a non vanos engine. Trying to push 8 psi max for now.
My email is b.couben@gmail.com if you decide to send them, thanks.

[SirMaxximus]

Could you send me your .msq file? or your fuel/ignition maps? Please lol Just to bridge off of for my own project. I'm pretty much running the same set up as you on a non vanos engine. Trying to push 8 psi max for now.
My email is b.couben@gmail.com if you decide to send them, thanks.

I sent you an email with my msq file. Hope it helps mate!

[SirMaxximus]

Back at it: The E30 held pretty solid at 10 psi all summer long! It's now winter and we are back at building it!

I want to turn it up the boost to about 14-16psi, then do a dyno-tune session next spring and have the car pretty much be done motor wise. I've thought alot on the different options, E85 / headgasket spacer / meth... honestly I think any of these could probably get me where I wanted... I decided to do the headgasket spacer, I think this is the most simple answer as I wont have to go out of my way for e85 stations, and I also want to fix a timing cover leak thats been giving me trouble and I think this will be the most future proof answer as well....


So here we go:

A few pics I snapped before parking







Cams come off







I've never timed a bmw i6... seems pretty silly to have to hold the chain up but I didn't have a much better answer, I used a zip tie on the plastic guide to hold it.



Head is off:



So it looks like the gasket has been replaced before! I can still see the words victor reinz on it, pretty surprised by this.











That's all I got accomplished tonight, off to the machine shop!

[SirMaxximus]

Havn't worked a ton on the car lately. But got a few things done.
Block + head ready to go back together. Cylinder walls look great! only concerning thing I found was some light scoring on the cam's + caps, but we're gonna send it, she was pretty quiet up top before so I dont expect much different.



So something I knew but decided to pretend didn't exist: My downpipe ran dangerously close to my strut tower. There was maybe 1/8-1/4 of an inch clearance there. As it turns out it that was not enough... Here's some proof:





No harm done and all in good fun right!
-So I invested in some condor motor mounts, I figured less engine movement would help minimize this downpipe issue, I really dont want too much viberation, after some research I landed on doing condor engine mounts and leaving the trans mounts stock. I've heard this is an acceptable mix. we'll find out. My old motor mount on the passenger side was getting pretty slouchy anyways.





also! ran E-brake cables! I havn't had an e-brake in this car since I owned it and its been on my list for a long time!

[SirMaxximus]

The tolerances of these cut-rings was MUCH tighter than I expected... getting them all to squeeze together and stay in their spots when setting the head down turned out difficult.

[SirMaxximus]

Things are coming back together, cams + timing + vanos are back in. Hopefully gonna do a quick start up this weekend and let the car go through a heat cycle so I can re-torque the head again.

Also got myself a new shift knob!

[Pootis]

From the looks of your old gasket it looked like it was just about to blow anyways so this was a good call. Keep up the hard work