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    Very central locking

    Anyone know the difference in the wiring for the central locking of a vert compared to a coupe? I have 2 thick red/black wires going into the door plug and 1 coming out.

    I have 1 thin red/black in the relay and 1 thin red/black in the control unit.

    Trying to bypass the loop so I can start checking stuff of to get my locks working.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    /// MTech Belts ///


    S52 BUILD

    M3 VERT BUILD

    #2
    sorry dont know ,,,,,, but wots common is the relay and some times the wire ends corrode in the door entry connection,,,
    best of luck,,

    I do have good relay avail if required, its in the side footwell ;)

    Comment


      #3
      Fuse is good, relay has been swapped and no rust on the connections.

      I removed the loop according to the diagram but still nothing.

      Next step is replacing actuators.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      /// MTech Belts ///


      S52 BUILD

      M3 VERT BUILD

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        #4
        No difference at all iirc. Download the e30 schematic PDFs to be sure
        I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s

        HOWTOs:
        DB vert plastic bumpers
        OEM Keys
        MTech1 docs

        88 ix Lach/Card
        91 ic Calypso 3.1
        86 Cosmo 2.7

        OEM+ or bust!


        reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
        TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
        e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.

        Comment


          #5
          Very central locking

          So the wiring info I posted above it correct for coupes as well? Doesn’t seem that way from the pic below.




          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          /// MTech Belts ///


          S52 BUILD

          M3 VERT BUILD

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            #6
            All actuators are good, control unit and relay are good.


            From the pic posted above I don’t have the jumper wire going from the relay to control unit this is why I asked if the verts had different wiring.





            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            /// MTech Belts ///


            S52 BUILD

            M3 VERT BUILD

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              #7
              Did you check the thermal fuse inside the CU ? Its a low temp solder so its quite visible if bad and if you do decide to repair it do not use regular solder (AMHIK). I did that and blew every actuator in the car :-)
              Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

              https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
              Alice the Time Capsule
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
              87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                Did you check the thermal fuse inside the CU ? Its a low temp solder so its quite visible if bad and if you do decide to repair it do not use regular solder (AMHIK). I did that and blew every actuator in the car :-)


                Yeah my fuse was good. I actually got it working, ended up being the loop in the door. I thought I spliced the right wires but the door plug actually has 3 red/black wire but 1 is a gauge smaller compared to the other 2. Spliced the right wires and everything worked.
                Thanks for the help!


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                /// MTech Belts ///


                S52 BUILD

                M3 VERT BUILD

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