Hi All,
As the title indicates - clutch is completely dead after a master cylinder and slave cylinder swap. I also changed the hose between brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder as well as gone the steel-braided clutch line route from the clutch mc to the clutch sc.
I'll try to post a video of what's happening exactly but just in case I can't - If I touch the pedal with my index finger it falls straight to the stopper and if I touch the back of the pedal is springs right back up on its own. There is zero stiffness to the pedal.
I have vacuum bled the piss out of this thing, probably passed a whole bottle through the reservoir and out of the slave cylinder. As soon as I kick on the vacuum I crack the bleeder and out comes zero bubble, clean, new brake fluid. Reservoir goes from max to low every time I do this and I've kept it full.
Also dismantled the slave cylinder and, when I depress the clutch sc plunger/rod and hold it depressed while pumping the pedal, the clutch sc plunger/rod fights against my palm, rising about 1/4" with every pump of the clutch pedal. I should note that it's difficult to depress the rod after the bleed. It was easy to do before I installed the unit and bled the system.
Didn't take any close up looks at it but I did peek and I do see the fork through clutch sc hole. It's still there. Clutch was fully operational but the old sc had a broken seal and I wanted to swap the rubber lines out so I figured why not go all new and refresh the clutch. Clutch MC is FTE and Clutch SC is Febi, both OEM.
I have pumped the pedal about three thousand times! I've also double checked all steel line fitting connections and they are nice and seated. I have been told to reverse bleed it as opposed to vacuum bleed it but sounds like overkill. I also don't want to spend 200 bucks on a decent reverse bleeder.
All the DIY videos and threads don't mention having to go that route. Very simple system and I am stumped so that makes me a bonafide idiot! Any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated!!
As the title indicates - clutch is completely dead after a master cylinder and slave cylinder swap. I also changed the hose between brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder as well as gone the steel-braided clutch line route from the clutch mc to the clutch sc.
I'll try to post a video of what's happening exactly but just in case I can't - If I touch the pedal with my index finger it falls straight to the stopper and if I touch the back of the pedal is springs right back up on its own. There is zero stiffness to the pedal.
I have vacuum bled the piss out of this thing, probably passed a whole bottle through the reservoir and out of the slave cylinder. As soon as I kick on the vacuum I crack the bleeder and out comes zero bubble, clean, new brake fluid. Reservoir goes from max to low every time I do this and I've kept it full.
Also dismantled the slave cylinder and, when I depress the clutch sc plunger/rod and hold it depressed while pumping the pedal, the clutch sc plunger/rod fights against my palm, rising about 1/4" with every pump of the clutch pedal. I should note that it's difficult to depress the rod after the bleed. It was easy to do before I installed the unit and bled the system.
Didn't take any close up looks at it but I did peek and I do see the fork through clutch sc hole. It's still there. Clutch was fully operational but the old sc had a broken seal and I wanted to swap the rubber lines out so I figured why not go all new and refresh the clutch. Clutch MC is FTE and Clutch SC is Febi, both OEM.
I have pumped the pedal about three thousand times! I've also double checked all steel line fitting connections and they are nice and seated. I have been told to reverse bleed it as opposed to vacuum bleed it but sounds like overkill. I also don't want to spend 200 bucks on a decent reverse bleeder.
All the DIY videos and threads don't mention having to go that route. Very simple system and I am stumped so that makes me a bonafide idiot! Any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated!!
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