Northern's Sterlingsilber M52 Turbo 325is

[kicktopush]

I like. How exactly did you break 4 rockers at once though? haha. I broke one and I'm planning on going in there soon.

[Northern]

I like. How exactly did you break 4 rockers at once though? haha. I broke one and I'm planning on going in there soon.

Timing belt snapped while between 6k and redline. I didn't know what happened, so I think there was a lot of valve smackage while I was coasting to a stop with the car still in gear.

I wish I only damaged the rockers/valves and not the head, but I'm still excited to finally go M52.

[Northern]

I boxed up those subframe bits with the oilpan and shipped them off on monday. Also ordered a few things from Blunt:

And a cheap single mass flywheel/clutch...

If I were to do the clutch again, I would already have done it differently, but I think this will work out pretty well anyway.

I was going to hold off on the rear main seal, ZF320 detent service, clutch/flywheel, and trans seals, but I really don't want to pull this again anytime soon.

M20 is almost pulled, just the DME cable to get pulled through the firewall, and it can come out. No pics of that because it is dark from like 5pm onward now

[AWDBOB]

Looking good! How do those FX clutches stack up against the Spec clutch of sprung 6 puck variant?

[arthurmdk]

great work! keep it up

[Northern]

Looking good! How do those FX clutches stack up against the Spec clutch of sprung 6 puck variant?

Short answer is

Long answer:
FX Racing/F1 Racing is pretty common, and pretty well reviewed on BF.C. The whole kit with the 240mm single mass flywheel is cheaper than just the Spec "Stage 3" clutch/pressure plate(which seems to have the same torque rating). The FX kits use a Sachs HD M3 pressure plate like most of the ebay kits, so that makes me feel ok about it for now.

It's rated for "487hp/435ftlb" which sounds like the car they used it on made those figures. Should be enough for a few years at least as long as it isn't garbage.

I could have messed around with an E28 M5 flywheel/Sachs 765 pressure plate setup if I had a little more money and knowledge, but I can't find all the info I need to make it work, and I don't have time to experiment to figure out which starter/any stack height issues/TOB.


2017 edit: RHD now makes a lightweight flywheel for 24v engines with the 24v starter gear, but takes an M30/S38 clutch... If I were to do it again, I'd buy this + Sachs -765 PP and a stock sprung disc, and that should be good for a lot (Matti's 1000whp 325ix is running an organic disc+ Sachs 765 with success)

[Northern]

I've had a few of the Brent6361 rear shift carrier bushings in storage for >2 years now, finally have the opportunity to use it.

Out with the old:


And after cleaning and some loctite+socket and BFH (no pics of it painted, but it is):

Also have the old ebay shifter already removed, so I decided to stick it on the ZF carrier & selector rod. Condor Speed Shop's oval front shift carrier bushing is on order from blunt, along with the rest of my swap parts.

Nice weather = Engine pulling day.

Hood off. I think Roy is having second thoughts.


"Hey, that headbolt is bending pretty badly... Oh well."


Out.



Obligatory engine bay shot:



F1 Stage 3 Clutch/flywheel showed up as well. I need to get it to a machine shop to make sure it is balanced properly. I've seen how much material comes off the UUC flywheel/PP setups, and I can't imagine the ebay one is going to be balanced better. I also need to take a look at the TOB that comes in the kit and decide if I trust it or not, I've heard people get good ones, and other people getting garbage ones.

[Northern]

Random Picture from this summer, Doing half decent for a car that was thrown together with no class or specific purpose:

Edit: wrong pic


Back to the build.

FX Racing Stage 3 flywheel/clutch.

I looked at the pressure plate on this setup. For future reference it seems like an stock sachs M3 plate.

External markings:
SACHS
TYP MF 240
Made By Sachs 03-1-14
SACHS 3082 281 031
Internal Markings:
205 001 SKT 13

Clutch disc seems to be the same generic sprung hub 6-puk disc that is seen in a lot of kits. I don't know if this is a good or bad thing.

TOB that came with the kit has absolutely no markings, and I assumed it is garbage and bought a new OEM e36 M3 TOB.

Shorter PP bolts that came with the kit are 10.9 instead of 12.9. I have not heard of any issues with running these, and after searching for an equivalent length 12.9, I'm just going to run the 10.9's.

Flywheel and PP came back from the machine shop. Flywheel alone is 0.4g off and with pressure plate installed, it is 1.3g off. Apparently that's good, and I don't know anyone else who has bothered to balance one before installing, so I have nothing to compare to.



Started working on an MS41 bench flashing setup using an old OBD1 M50 harness. Pulling pins from the DME connector was pretty easy, and it's cutting down on the rat's nest of wires:


I had an M50 manifold lying around:

It was painted green when I got it, and it was peeling off badly, but not badly enough that I could peel the paint off properly. Didn't feel like fucking with it, so I bought another:

[Northern]

Front condor bushing showed up (THANKS BLUNTYPOO <3) so everything there was slapped together.













...









ooh.

Prep for paint... Thankfully no snow in december:


I have 2 mini HVLP guns, a full size one, a drier&filter, and a shitty compressor, but I'd never used them at the same time. So I decided to spray shitty old tremclad, hotrodding style.



Painted...


Trans brace as well:


Turned out better than expected for doing everything wrong. We'll see how it all holds up, the subframe may get powdercoated yet... Big shoutout to TinyT @ The Arc Asylum for making this crazy shit. (Despite me sending the wrong pan at first)

[Northern]

New years eve...

Couple'a drinks Randy.


The woman's friends had invited themselves over to our place to play cards and watch some chick flick. Instead of this, I opted for:

Detent/Catch pin replacement on the ZF (5th/Reverse turned out to be sonofabitch)

New sleeve installed on one of the drifts, which I borrowed from one of the small handful of local bmw guys. My $7 makeshift slide hammer also present...

One of the DIY's recommended using the smallest die grinder collet and a screw to pull the pins out for 5th/Reverse. Mine were really seized and it worked, although it broke the collet in the process.

Then getting the sleeves out was a biatch until I figured out that they were already split. derp.

The remaining 3 on top were a breeze aside from the screw on the slide hammer ripping out of the first hole, but then I learned a regular wood drywall screw works great for this and popped the rest off easily. I greased the shit out of all of this on install, so I hopefully don't have to do it again (yeah right)


After that, I popped a new selector seal on over the old one (couldn't pull it out) and put on a new joint with a new pin. No slop now at all feelsgoodman.jpg

Just need to flush fluid, change input seal, and we should be good to go unless the reverse switch doesn't fit.


Happy 2015. New Year, Old You.

[efficient]

Just wondering what's the purpose of your new subframe?

[Northern]

Just wondering what's the purpose of your new subframe?

Rear sump 24v.

http://www.thearcasylum.com/e36-rear-sump-swap.html

[Wishno87]

In for pics of front sway setup.

[Northern]

In for pics of front sway setup.

Spoiler: It's a 25mm IE setup with stock endlinks until I section my housings to run my GC droplinks. May drop down in size when I do the droplinks, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.

[Wishno87]

What sort of brackets will you use to secure it to the subframe? I have had mine sitting around for years(it was the first e36 one he made) but have not gotten around to it and have never seen anyone post their front sway setups.