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    too much rear positive camber/toe

    hello.

    first of all. These are my rear numbers. :-?
    Woops. by jet jones, on Flickr

    what i have in the rear is 9mm subframe raiser bushing
    and ie camber/toe adjusters.

    They were on ie3 springs so it was very low.

    the camber/toe was adjusted accordingly and was within spec.





    my diff. support broke so i had to weld in a new one. you can read it here.https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=424536

    but i couldn't really figure out how exactly to find the correct diff. angle

    to weld the cover brackets. i believe it to be alittle high. or not. Would that really throw it off this much?



    I now have 17s so a good amount of height was added via coil-overs.
    Is it that high up to be giving those numbers?
    So, right now I don't know what to do really....

    Toe-in is completely maxed at this point.
    Would using a normal, non-raised subframe bushing bring it back?

    Thanks for the help. I'm really sorta stuck. Let me know if you need any measurements, or pictures. anything...

    Here it is as it sits.
    It's a little high, but like iI said, don't think it's high enough to effect camber/toe perhaps maybe or not.

    Enjoying the e30 by jet jones, on Flickr
    Last edited by LowR3V'in; 03-20-2019, 07:07 PM.

    #2
    The sliders are welded in so stock location is in the middle.
    maybe there will be something obvious in the pictures. idk.
    Camber is not pictured but is about in the center.
    middle of the hub to fender is 1.1ft.

    E30 adjusters by jet jones, on Flickr
    Toe slider by jet jones, on Flickr
    Last edited by LowR3V'in; 03-16-2019, 08:38 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      Something is definitely funky as generally you would have excessive negative camber and positive toe. You have the opposite some how. I would say it was something bent, but both sides are even. Hmm...

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the help Andrew. I think I figured this out.
        Going to drop the frame tomorrow because i have a feeling... that
        because it was slammed and crazy toed-in with the ie springs.

        ...SO, what i think happened was the end of toe-in adjustment, is actually stock location, if not, favoring toe-out.
        This was finished 4 years ago, at least, so memory is alittle faded.
        Then the raiser bushing that adds like 0.5 degrees. another a-ha, i raised this bitch like 4 inches.

        if not then get a stock frame and get it aligned. That will tell all.
        :dot:

        Comment


          #5
          Yup, that was it.

          Max toe-in was stock location
          so the solution now is to just weld it maybe an inch forward.

          The real problem is that the bushings bind so much it's a real shitty way to do it.
          Good if u want a tiny bit of adjustment, but it's a really really totally shit way of adjusting.


          It was binding so much the bolt can't actually hit the end of the slot, it was maybe 1-2mm away from it.
          Do not buy these long adjusters.

          This right here is what i'm going to have to do at a later time it's the correct way to do it but for now
          i'm just putting the stock frame back in and deal with typical e30 camber back there, but at least the toe will be good.

          to do it right =
          irp,individual racing parts,irp parts,irp racing parts,drift racing parts,drift kit,irp short shifter,tuning parts,performance parts,drift suspension

          this guy did sorta a home made version.
          Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make sure you find the answers you need to your questions and our community is here to help other brainstorm ideas for the future.


          hope this helps future ppl

          ps. anyone of you stanced bois want to buy a frame that will get you into spec again? ;)

          Adjust much? by jet jones, on Flickr

          Comment


            #6
            just to follow up stock subframe with poly bush & 9mm raiser

            Stock subframe by jet jones, on Flickr
            Oem v 9mm raiser by jet jones, on Flickr

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for following up. So lowing the subframe got your toe in and you’re back to normal?

              I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
              @Zakspeed_US

              Comment


                #8
                The trailing arms bottom out in the subframe pockets before you can get max travel out of the posi-lock adjusters welded where center = stock. The subframe mounting points need to be completely re-engineered if you want lots of toe-in.

                Not saying they don't bind the bushings, but that is likely the issue you were having.
                Byron
                Leichtbau

                Comment


                  #9
                  na, changing to stock subframe and sticking to the 9mm raisers was good enough for me @ -1.4* isn't too bad.

                  the posilock adjustment is impossibly too long
                  they're not even for e30s and trailing arm maxed out binding the f out of the bushings only gave 1* of adjustment.
                  That's with Toe at an unsafe setting.
                  A ghetto and shit way to do it

                  only way to do it is with that guys kit i posted above you're going to be welding anyway.

                  That subframe and ie posicrap is in the backyard rusting away.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I believe the posilock with some engineering can work great! How bad does it suck not to have the eccentrics not give you enough room, but then with poly you run into bind.

                    I have had a similar issue with too much toe out.. But running Z3M arms. If you will cut out the subframe pocket and slide the trailing arm toward to get proper toe, you would be hurting the sweep angle.
                    ,
                    This is where I am and its driving me mad.

                    I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                    @Zakspeed_US

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Condor TA bushings now have curved side that reduce binding with adjusters....

                      We have updated the design of our BMW E30 rear trailing arm bushings! These UHMW bushings are made with aluminum sleeves to stiffen the rear trailing arms!
                      john@m20guru.com
                      Links:
                      Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                        Condor TA bushings now have curved side that reduce binding with adjusters....

                        https://www.condorspeedshop.com/prod...m-bushings-e30
                        Interesting.. but

                        That's not a solution to the problem. The bind is in the sleeve of the bushing.

                        I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                        @Zakspeed_US

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I would recommend you to make the camber negative. I did this to my BMW F30 328I, and I am very pleased with it. The grip is better and it's handling better. I've read a lot of articles about negative and positive camber because I wanted to make my car stronger. Also, it is looking very aggressive. I have run-flats and I am pleased with this type of camber. Anyway, you could read more about it on https://low-offset.com/workshop/posi...-wheel-camber/. This article helped me to take the final decision. There is a lot of useful information that will help you.
                          Last edited by Tiamurin; 02-14-2021, 11:34 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Tiamurin View Post
                            I would recommend you to make the camber negative. I did this to my BMW F30 328I, and I am very pleased with it. The grip is better and it's handling better.
                            Sell us something Mr. Nissan.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              If you wanted to you could just put eccentric bushings in the outer bushings.

                              Any indication that you old sub-frame was bent?

                              Its so nice when you can get decent numbers without adjusters.


                              I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                              @Zakspeed_US

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