Originally posted by Elysian
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From what I saw so far adapting ford or GM stuff to the E30 will require an adapter to mount the OEM master cylinder to the booster and the booster to the firewall, that's fabrication I'm not really equipped to do so a machine shop would have to do it, $$$$. I can fabricate basic stuff, but I don't have a mill, lathe, drill press, etc. nor would I personally weld something required for my brakes to work, I just don't weld enough to be that good at it. The E23 setup seems to require less adaptation, but it has an external accumulator so it requires more lines. Not really a big deal other than finding the parts and buying a new accumulator - one in the junk yard probably belongs there since they're known to fail with age.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17 -
I have an E23 setup in the garage, it looks like a nightmare, which is why I didn't pursue it.Originally posted by varg View PostComment
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Eventful day, till I had to leave for a friends get together.
Started the morning at the junkyard, grabbed a Fox body gas pedal and throttle cable, as well as the bolts I need to install the upper intake manifold.
Then wrestled with the fuel rail, got it mounted lower which gave the intake plenty of clearance. The rail kit I bought didn't come with everything I needed, should have bought one with a regulator, but I was able to find the parts to make the regulator I have work, so the fuel rail is complete. Tomorrow I'll start by mounting the pressure regulator, then finish up the wiring work.
And just worked out the LS coil wiring, so I can wire those up easily tomorrow.Comment
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So yesterday I decided to bring all my wiring in the house and work on it on my electronics bench. Got about 90% of it done, but by the time I'd already put 8 hours into it my brain was mush, so I stopped. Didn't get to start the engine this weekend, but I should have the harness finished in short order, all I have left is to add some fuses for the injectors and coils, wire up the C101, and wire up the Innovate LC-1 wideband.Comment
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Wrapped up the engine harness today. I salvaged the O2/Fuel/Main relay another E30 harness, those are working properly, and I have the minimum wiring from the C101 working currently. I kept the rest of the wires in the C101 for now, I want to see how much I can get to actually work properly.
The Megasquirt powers up, the fuel pump relay seems to be functioning properly, and I checked anything else I could check. I was tripped up by the TPS for a moment. It wasn't working at all, so I did some investigating. I accidentally wired the 5v reference wire to the pin next to it. Fixed that and got 5v from the reference to ground, but not to sensor ground. Once I connected sensor ground to ground I was able to figure out the TPS wiring (had the wires mismatched) and get that working perfectly. I still need to give power to the injectors, then the harness is 100% done, at least for now. I may get the wires where I want and shorten some portions of it, right now it's comically long.
No start today, but got a LOT done after the rain cleared up. Made custom spark plug wires for the LS coils with 90 degree ends at the spark plug. Got all the wires run, intake installed, and got the starter wired up, or so I thought... Couldn't get it to turn over, it got dark so I wrapped up. Came in and realized the E30V8 guide isn't great for a Megasquirt setup. I'll hopefully have the starter up and running tomorrow after work.Comment
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Realized this morning I forgot to hook up the ground for the main relay
Now I can't do that till I get off work 
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Got the starter to kick over, only to realize I have the wrong starter. Mistakenly thought the Explorer was 157 tooth. Going to grab a starter on the way home.Comment
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That sucks! Looking forward to the first start video. Any chance you could measure the total intake height and what the hood clearance looks like with it? At this point it isn't going to be necessary for me to find a good EFI intake since I have an aftermarket throttle body injection unit that fits manfolds made for carbureted cars, but I'm still interested to see what hood clearance looks like since it will dictate how tall of an intake I can run.Last edited by varg; 08-13-2018, 01:51 PM.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17Comment
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If I put the idle valve up the hood won't close. It's tight. I haven't been able to check with the TPS on top yet, my fuel pressure regulator is currently in the way. I have subframe spacers I need to install, so the hood isn't so close to the intake manifold.Originally posted by varg View PostComment
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The things you learn when you actually do research... I have the wrong bellhousing... Or I have the wrong clutch/flywheel, but finding the correct bellhousing is a bit easier/cheaper than replacing the clutch/flywheel.
There are 2 302 T-5 bellhousings for sale now in my area, for $50 and $65, so I at least have options... Minor setback I guess.Comment
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Wife picked up the $50 bell housing for me tonight, was way up north near where she works. It's the right part, fits the starter locating plate I bought a while back and thought was the wrong part. Will try to swap everything out this weekend.Comment
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Today was... an adventure...
So the new bell housing doesn't fit the transmission I have, totally different bolt pattern. Apparently that's a thing that happens. I called the other guy with the bell housing and checked it out, same exact bell housing, same problem, wrong bolt pattern. So I'm stuck with the 3.8 bell housing, because it matches my transmission.
Because of that, I've ordered a 167 tooth flywheel, I'm going to see if my clutch setup will fit on it. If not, I'll order a clutch too. Going to try to sell off the clutch/flywheel I currently have if that's the case...
Also, while checking the fuel system for leaks, I found that injector 1 is stuck open. You can see that in the intake runner in the picture, full of fuel.
Pics:
Pardon the rat's nest wiring. I had to pull my tape job on the harness apart to troubleshoot. I'm ultimately going to wire up my own main relay, fuel injector relay, and O2 sensor relay. To unbolt the transmission, I had to drop the whole front subframe. Gonna be crazy getting it back up, but I did get an engine lift plate from the guy with the $65 bell housing that didn't work, so that will help get it back in. I needed to drop the subframe anyways, I have spacer plates that will put the engine lower in the bay.Comment
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Clutch/flywheel is sorted. O'reilly had the parts in stock, using a pickup clutch/flywheel, and got a military discount. Just finished bolting the subframe back on, I'm beat. Still have some things to button up in the morning but I ran out of daylight an hour ago. Subframe spacers brought the engine down a smidgen, which is helpful.
Oh, and I figured out where my transmission was binding on the trans tunnel... The shifter is aftermarket and doesn't come close to fitting through the hole, so it was just pushing up on the tunnel. Cut a bigger hole for that.Last edited by Elysian; 08-18-2018, 07:38 PM.Comment
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Everything is bolted back on. I also took the time to swap in the correct E36 M3 control arm on the drivers side. Still haven't 5 lug swapped the passenger side. The wheel sits a lot more centered now. I'm going to start looking for another #1 injector. Probably not going to work on anything till next weekend.Comment
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How is the pan clearance? The engine looks like it's sitting nice and low in there!
Also, do you have a plan for the exhaust yet?Comment
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