Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

DIY Tweeter Install

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    DIY Tweeter Install

    Hey everyone I hope this helps someone bring their tweeters back to life. I cant believe how much front sound stage this brought to the car with a loud exhaust. I can actually hear music now!

    Tools required:
    1 or 2 flat head screwdrivers
    Needle nose pliers
    Glue gun

    1" Tweeters (This guide uses Alpine SPS-110TW)

    So here is what we're starting with. What we have here is the stock trim, tweeter, and tweeter mount.




    What we need to do first is remove the tweeter from its mount. This can be accomplished by taking a flathead screwdriver between the tweeter side and the tweeter mount and using a twisting motion, like unscrewning something. Work slow, go around 2 or 3 times, you'll hear the glue cracking as you do this. Once you get a little bit of wiggle, try and get the flathead under the edge of the tweeter and pop it up and out. If you feel like its taking a lot of effort go back around with a larger flathead to get more leverage.



    Okay cool, the tweeter is out. Now we need to tackle the tweeter mount. This piece is also glued to the stock trim. What we want to do now is get a pair of needle nose pliers, and pry the mount away from the tweeter trim panel. I cant think of a way to describe it, so hopefully the second image here shows how the plastic is deflecting. You want to kind of pull the plastic in towards the middle. All the glue is on the outside edge.







    Awesome! So now we have the tweeter mount out. What we have left is the factory trim with its foam. Pull that crumbling foam out and lets get ready for the new tweeters to pop in. Lets turn on the hot glue gun now.

    The alpine tweeters I picked up have a conical mount which makes this install super smooth. Its just small enough to line up in the factory hole and centers itself nicely.





    Cool, so if we take a quick peek at the original tweeter we see that the wires attached at the bottom, so we'll line up ours the same, and give it a nice coat of hot glue. Let it sit for about 3-5 minutes cause all of this glue will take some time to solidify. It's still soft here, when its hardened it will have a more opaque finish.





    At this point you'll want to make sure you install the passive crossover if you dont already have something hooked up. I had the base audio system, so I did not have the tweeters hooked up to the front woofers. Tapping into the factory wires is quick and easy. Trace the wires from behind the front kick panel speaker they should be Grey/yellow and Grey/green. Tuck the passive crossover in behind your front speaker, and then trim your tweeter wire so it tucks behind the mirror easier.

    The crossover gets wired in parallel with the front woofer so

    woofer + goes to crossover + goes to tweeter +
    woofer - goes to crossover - goes to tweeter -

    negative terminals are generally the smaller of the two terminals.

    Great job! You're done!
    Last edited by driftxsequence; 08-06-2018, 08:38 AM.
    325IX Build Thread
    RX7 Build Thread

    #2
    All you need to do is wedge a flathead screwdriver in between the housing and the tweeter mount and slowly pry up around the mount and the entire tweeter will come out with it attached.
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

    Comment


      #3
      It's better if you take the grill off the new tweeter. Ask me how I know.
      Originally posted by Matt-B
      hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

      Comment


        #4
        hot glue will crack and fail in cold weather, might be best to use epoxy

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jdt10768 View Post
          hot glue will crack and fail in cold weather, might be best to use epoxy
          Dash temps reach well beyond the melting point of hot glue.
          Originally posted by Matt-B
          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

          Comment


            #6
            When the hot glue melts I can get back in there and pull off the tweeter grills :P
            325IX Build Thread
            RX7 Build Thread

            Comment


              #7
              That's just a weird response.
              Originally posted by Matt-B
              hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by george graves View Post
                Dash temps reach well beyond the melting point of hot glue.
                Thanks for this info, I'm getting ready to upgrade my tweeters and probably would've used hot glue.
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  we had a couple weeks of 95* weather and it sat in the sun. No issues so far.
                  325IX Build Thread
                  RX7 Build Thread

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I've had no issues with hot glue melting in SoCal but i'm in a mild climate. The melting point of hot glue sticks are around 120 degrees so as long as you don't live in the desert and park in the hot sun for prolonged periods, you should be okay. I like hot glue because it has a strong bond and dries quickly.
                    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i used hot glue for mine, and it eventually failed after about 2 years, I just noticed the tweeter starting separating from the mount (I don't have grills on mine). I live in New England and always have a windshield/dash cover when I park it, so it doesn't get TOO hot, but like someone said, I think the freezing temps in the winter caused it to fail.
                      1991 318is ---230K - DD
                      1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

                      Originally posted by RickSloan
                      so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by reelizmpro View Post
                        The melting point of hot glue sticks are around 120 degrees
                        Melting point and the point when it goes soft is two different things - just FYI. For the record, when I design something for automotive use, I assume dash temps reach a blistering 240c - that's kinda the upper industry standard for a closed car, on a hot day, in the sun. Worst case stuff.
                        Originally posted by Matt-B
                        hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Good old SAE J1455. I think 240C might be a little high, maybe 240F? Certainly, it is not beyond reason to hit 100C under certain conditions...Arizona dashboard. That's just passenger vehicles, too. Stowage areas in commercial vehicles are even worse!

                          Transaction Feedback: LINK

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ha! You got me. 240F. Not C. I didn't want people to think you were melting lead almost

                            Why are "Stowage areas in commercial vehicles are even worse!"? Big black boxes out in the sun all day?
                            Originally posted by Matt-B
                            hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Many of the stowage areas are adjacent to the exhaust and driveline, which can pick up radiated & convected heat at a stop and when parked after driving (expecially in the Arizona sun). It has been many years since I had to read through J1455 as part of a previous job, but I do recall some of the crazy corner-case temp specs. Passenger cars are not that far behind commercial scenarios, with 74C being considered very common in the interior cabin and 90C+ in the trunk. A product that I used to work on had to meet all sorts of these specs, not that the device was ever intended to be used in a car, but users would frequently transport it via car. Much arguing ensued over some aspects of it...74C was what the thing was designed to sustain indefinitely, and it led to a cost increase in the optical drive to survive it, while at the same time industry-standard optical media would very frequently fail well before 74C. It was a somewhat over-engineered device lol.

                              The really bitchin case is "container ship in southeast Asia." IIRC, the test for simulating that is like 90C at 95% relative humidity, with salt content. Hell, just shipping devices from there to here might as well be part of the reliability testing.

                              Transaction Feedback: LINK

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X