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**berndt** · 09-03-2016, 11:11 AM

Nice. Here's my similar 92 that I picked up about 4 months ago. It's stock with 164k miles. Since I got it, I've done the following:

* timing belt/water pump/plugs/rotor/etc.
* reupholstered seats (leatherseats.com)
* converted broken automatic top to manual
* new(ish) top

**Republican** · 09-03-2016, 11:34 AM

Originally posted by berndt View Post

Nice. Here's my similar 92 that I picked up about 4 months ago. It's stock with 164k miles. Since I got it, I've done the following:

* timing belt/water pump/plugs/rotor/etc.
* reupholstered seats (leatherseats.com)
* converted broken automatic top to manual
* new(ish) top

[ATTACH]110502[/ATTACH]

Did you select 1991 model from LeatherSeats.com, since 1992 isn't an option?

Once you ordered from LeatherSeats.com, what did it cost to install?

**berndt** · 09-03-2016, 03:02 PM

Yeah, I ordered the 91 model. They called to confirm everything, and it all fits great. I did the install myself over a couple of weekends. It's not hard, just get some good sharp wire cutters!!!

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**M_3_X** · 09-04-2016, 06:53 AM

Originally posted by Republican View Post

Fixing the Idle

I'm going to start with the Idle Control Valve, then the Idle Control Module. One thing to note as well, the AC system affects the idle. When the A/C is turned on, the RPMs kick up, and then it affects my shifting.

When I'm driving highway, for example, and take my foot off the accelerator, it seems to suddenly downshift in a somewhat dramatic fashion. Again, this goes away if A/C is off.

Any other suggestions, keeping in mind that all the above improvements haven't changed the idle at all?

Nice find! face lift convertibles (plastic bumpers/bigger tail lights) are very rare since they made very low number of them.

I'm having the same idle issue, what you are feeling is the trany shifting abruptly before the RPM's have a chance to stabilize, in my case is a little less annoying because it's a manual transmission and I can control the shifting (releasing the clutch once revs are low enough). It's close to normal when A/C is off, although a little high (~900-1000 RPM)
I would give priority to this in your case, since it can cause serious damage to the transmission. (Good thing the weather is changing, so you shouldn't need the air as much!

I've had my car for three months now and I still have to put more time in diagnose it. All I've done is clean the ICV and replace the intake hose and all the hoses around it. I'm pretty sure is a vacuum leak issue or sensor issue but I will have to devote more time in research and diagnosing.

Possible additional culprits I've read are, air leak from the intake manifold gasket, bad ICV, bad TPS (Throttle position sensor), if all these checks out, it could be a fuel related issue.

In cars this age, it could be anything!, I'll keep an eye on your progress since our idle issues are very similar.

Welcome and have fun with the car! Here's mine, 1991, 125,000 miles.

Attached Files

**Republican** · 09-04-2016, 10:23 AM

Originally posted by M_3_X View Post

Nice find! face lift convertibles (plastic bumpers/bigger tail lights) are very rare since they made very low number of them.

I'm having the same idle issue, what you are feeling is the trany shifting abruptly before the RPM's have a chance to stabilize, in my case is a little less annoying because it's a manual transmission and I can control the shifting (releasing the clutch once revs are low enough). It's close to normal when A/C is off, although a little high (~900-1000 RPM)
I would give priority to this in your case, since it can cause serious damage to the transmission. (Good thing the weather is changing, so you shouldn't need the air as much!

I've had my car for three months now and I still have to put more time in diagnose it. All I've done is clean the ICV and replace the intake hose and all the hoses around it. I'm pretty sure is a vacuum leak issue or sensor issue but I will have to devote more time in research and diagnosing.

Possible additional culprits I've read are, air leak from the intake manifold gasket, bad ICV, bad TPS (Throttle position sensor), if all these checks out, it could be a fuel related issue.

In cars this age, it could be anything!, I'll keep an eye on your progress since our idle issues are very similar.

Welcome and have fun with the car! Here's mine, 1991, 125,000 miles.

Twinsies, as they say.

I'm not using the AC until I fix it, and it shifts fine without it on, so I'm not too nervous about that, but still want it fixed, because the wife is an AC maniac. ;)

**Republican** · 09-05-2016, 11:48 PM

I went ahead and created another post in the suspension section regarding suspension, as I feel I'll need a good tutoring to help me understand what in the hell I'm doing.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?p=4686309#post4686309

**Das Delfin** · 09-07-2016, 11:51 AM

I have the Falkens on my car and they're fine. I took the car on a twisty mountain road the other night and the car was great.

On that note.. I have H&R sport springs (for cabrio.. the rear springs are a heavier spring rate than on the coupe) and KYB shocks - I think gas-a-just and g-shocks in the front. Lots of people swear by their koni's but these were 1/4 of the price! I've had this setup for around 20k miles with no problems.

The front strut bar on cabrio's isn't super necessary since they received a ton of reinforcements in that area. But if you want to get one be sure to get the one that has a bracket/clearance for the cruise control cable. Everyone says the undercarriage cross brace is a good idea though.

When you buy suspension parts, try to buy lemforder brand. This was the OEM supplier back in the day and the rubber in these parts is generally held to a higher standard than the cheaper brands.

Your idle kicking up when the A/C is on is normal. However the trans downshifting when you let off the accelerator is not. It's almost like something is triggering the auto trans kick-down feature, which to me seems like a throttle position sensor symptom. I would start by checking for vacuum leaks. If your rubber boot is old, replace it. You can take the IVC and TPS off and clean them and check their readings with a multimeter. Usually the TPS gets gunked up with oil fumes cooling and solidifying in the intake. Also it's common for the intake AFM to get flabby over time.. read up on how to refurbish a bosch AFM unit

Also, make sure the adjustment points where the accel and cruise cables attach to the throttle bodies aren't too loose or too tight.

**Republican** · 09-17-2016, 12:06 AM

Originally posted by Das Delfin View Post

I have the Falkens on my car and they're fine. I took the car on a twisty mountain road the other night and the car was great.

On that note.. I have H&R sport springs (for cabrio.. the rear springs are a heavier spring rate than on the coupe) and KYB shocks - I think gas-a-just and g-shocks in the front. Lots of people swear by their koni's but these were 1/4 of the price! I've had this setup for around 20k miles with no problems.

The front strut bar on cabrio's isn't super necessary since they received a ton of reinforcements in that area. But if you want to get one be sure to get the one that has a bracket/clearance for the cruise control cable. Everyone says the undercarriage cross brace is a good idea though.

When you buy suspension parts, try to buy lemforder brand. This was the OEM supplier back in the day and the rubber in these parts is generally held to a higher standard than the cheaper brands.

Your idle kicking up when the A/C is on is normal. However the trans downshifting when you let off the accelerator is not. It's almost like something is triggering the auto trans kick-down feature, which to me seems like a throttle position sensor symptom. I would start by checking for vacuum leaks. If your rubber boot is old, replace it. You can take the IVC and TPS off and clean them and check their readings with a multimeter. Usually the TPS gets gunked up with oil fumes cooling and solidifying in the intake. Also it's common for the intake AFM to get flabby over time.. read up on how to refurbish a bosch AFM unit

Also, make sure the adjustment points where the accel and cruise cables attach to the throttle bodies aren't too loose or too tight.

So, let me make sure I found the correct products.

These springs: http://www.tunersports.com/h-r-sport...07_p12193.html

And 4 of these?: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...bmw/model/325i

**M_3_X** · 09-17-2016, 08:37 AM

Those seem to be the correct applications, but I would do a little more research on the KYB struts. I would go with something better like Bilstein.
I know they are more expensive but if you are going to go through a suspension refresh, do it right the first time.
H&R sport/ Bilstein sports is a proven combo with many satisfied people. (I've had it for 10 years in my previous project) and still performed perfect.
Don't cheap out on suspension parts, the ride and handling is one of the most important parts of your car.

**Republican** · 09-17-2016, 03:50 PM

Originally posted by M_3_X View Post

Those seem to be the correct applications, but I would do a little more research on the KYB struts. I would go with something better like Bilstein.
I know they are more expensive but if you are going to go through a suspension refresh, do it right the first time.
H&R sport/ Bilstein sports is a proven combo with many satisfied people. (I've had it for 10 years in my previous project) and still performed perfect.
Don't cheap out on suspension parts, the ride and handling is one of the most important parts of your car.

Which Bilsteins? Provide a link?

**Das Delfin** · 09-18-2016, 12:56 AM

wtf no! They're like $30 each. If you're going to spend 100+ at each corner on shocks, get some konis!

**Republican** · 10-21-2016, 02:51 AM

So, just a little update:

1. Car is burning oil/leaking oil. Unfortunately, my job is going to be very busy for the next 3 weeks, so it'll have to wait until after that until I can take it in to get looked at. I just keep adding oil occasionally and it seems to be running fine.

2. I purchased the suspension refresh kit from FCP Euro, H&R Sport Springs from Turner Motorsport, and the Bilstein Sport struts from BavAuto. I should have them all in time for when I need to take the car to be looked at for the leak, so I will have my mechanic do all of this.

3. Tires are tough to find. Ugh. I'm leaning towards the Falken Ziex ZE329, as my local PepBoys has a set under $400 installed, $330 not installed. Any experience with this tire?

4. I figured I should also look into getting the brakes done, since I'm fooling around down there. I heard Pagids are good. Any confirmations there?

**berndt** · 10-23-2016, 09:00 AM

My 92 also burns and leaks oil. I think it's from the valve seals, but this is just a guess. I just added some Lucas stop leak yesterday. We'll see if it helps. It smokes when pulling away from stops. Especially when cold. I'm also curious how you like the new suspension setup. I'm considering your same setup in the future.

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**Republican** · 10-23-2016, 10:02 PM

Originally posted by berndt View Post

My 92 also burns and leaks oil. I think it's from the valve seals, but this is just a guess. I just added some Lucas stop leak yesterday. We'll see if it helps. It smokes when pulling away from stops. Especially when cold. I'm also curious how you like the new suspension setup. I'm considering your same setup in the future.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll let you know when it all comes in. I have a hard time determining how bad my current setup is (unsure if stock or not), because all of my cars have had crap suspension, but my father always tells me how bad it is, so perhaps I'll finally get to feel what good suspension feels like. ;)

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New Owner: 1992 (E30) BMW 325i Cabriolet

New Owner: 1992 (E30) BMW 325i Cabriolet

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