M50b32 12:1

[ForcedFirebird]

I know this isn't apples to apples, but I took .090" off an aluminum Z3 single Vanos block (unicorn) to clean up some extreme "headgasket failed" erosion and so far (25,000 miles) I've had no issues. I'm running the .140 Cometic gasket and my pistons are designed with this configuration in mind (rings are moved down a bit).

I was quoting the manuals. The m20 is more picky about this if using the domed pistons.

[st.petebiodiesel]

As you can probably tell I've been building the bottom end on my kitchen table. (My wife is very understanding) I assembled it up to the oil pan. At which point it was way too heavy and dangerous to handle myself


I had a friend help me carry the bottom end out to my driveway, which with 2 people Isn't that bad.
This engine is being installed in my beater 1994 325is. I left the trans installed in the car with a jack under it. I know it's easier to pull the front bumper/core off the car and pull the engine trans together, but E36s are shit cars and I always break 5 other things trying to fix one. Plus the head wasn't ready to be installed anyway. Mating the bottom end to the trans is super easy without the head on.

Front wheel drive E36?????

Nah just kidding




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[Jaker]

Lookin' good!!

[st.petebiodiesel]

Now with the engine safely in the car and mounted to the transmission, I just needed to wait on the postal service to deliver my head gasket.
I choose the stock thickness (.070") S52 head gasket. I couldn't find any local auto parts stores that had a gasket available through World Pac, so unfortunately I had to wait a week for a gasket.

For those of you who have removed or replaced a cylinder head in the car know what a PITA it is to lower the head onto the studs. Definitely no easy way to do it without straining you back.
Things were going smoothly so far. I lubed all my ARP head studs and nuts and was gradually increasing the torque using the proper torque sequence. The final torque is 85 ftlbs, which I was almost done torquing all the studs when one of them snapped!!!!!

FANTASTIC!
I removed the head to see how far down the stud had broken. Hopefully it would be above the block. I wasn't that lucky, it broke sub flush to the deck.[emoji35]

Luckily I am a skilled fastener extractor.
ARP head studs are installed hand tight, so I was kind of how surprised how tight that sucker was in there. A quick heated phone call with a manager at ARP had another head stud overnighted to me for just the cost of a single stud.

Believe it or not studs snapping happens more often than you think. My studs had been reused for the 3rd time. I've heard of people using them more than 3 times, but you do need to measure them to make sure they have not stretched (what the ARP rep told me).




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[ForcedFirebird]

ARP is correct that they need to be measured. Also, I have no idea why everyone thinks ARP are 85ftl/lb when they are actually 75ft/lb (m20 is actually 70lb, and everyone goes to 85 as well)...

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/201-4302.pdf

Since they are hardened bolts and have no stretch, they have no advantage when over-torqued. They will snap often on the 2nd use when pulled to 85, surprised you got three uses out of them.

One other thing people forget is that with hardened hardware, they need to be checked after a few heat cycles. Factory bolts are stretched so they will keep clamping force on the head gasket as it settles in, ARP fasteners will loosen as the gasket settles.

[st.petebiodiesel]

ARP is correct that they need to be measured. Also, I have no idea why everyone thinks ARP are 85ftl/lb when they are actually 75ft/lb (m20 is actually 70lb, and everyone goes to 85 as well)...

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/201-4302.pdf

Since they are hardened bolts and have no stretch, they have no advantage when over-torqued. They will snap often on the 2nd use when pulled to 85, surprised you got three uses out of them.

One other thing people forget is that with hardened hardware, they need to be checked after a few heat cycles. Factory bolts are stretched so they will keep clamping force on the head gasket as it settles in, ARP fasteners will loosen as the gasket settles.

I was provided with the following instructions with my head stud kit.




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[digger]

pretty sure my original m20 ones were only 65 on a the paper that came with it about 12 years ago, the new ones are 70 which is just a tad higher than what is recommended for a 12.9

[pazi88]

My question is why would you even use those sick ass expensive ARP studs when those are not even needed for this kind of build? You can buy 10 sets of stock bolts for the price. Those will work fine for even moderate turbo build and don't need tightening after first heat cycle etc.

[ForcedFirebird]

I was provided with the following instructions with my head stud kit.

Strange.

EDIT:

Their website has the most up to date info, looks like this was revised in '16, your studs sheet is from '11.

[digger]

yeah someone at ARP screwed up majorly

[st.petebiodiesel]

My question is why would you even use those sick ass expensive ARP studs when those are not even needed for this kind of build? You can buy 10 sets of stock bolts for the price. Those will work fine for even moderate turbo build and don't need tightening after first heat cycle etc.

I used them on my failed 3.0 stroker which I did intend on boosting before it failed prematurely. I could of bought a set of fel pro head bolts at the advanced auto parts store down the street for $23, but ARP stood behind their product and overnighted me a stud.
I ended up using the same gasket again since I didn't want to wait for another week for one in the mail. I figured what the hell it never got ran just compressed once. It turned out fine.
Now With the head on and all the head studs torqued to the incorrect 85ft/lbs I timed the S52 cams.

Unfortunately I feverishly put everything back together and didn't take any additional pictures.
I am happy to report that the engine started without issue and since the date of this post passed 5000 miles. Initial oil consumption was present for the first 200 miles. I started the engine with rotela 15w40 non synthetic as a break in oil and switched to Liqui Moly 15w40 at 1000 miles.
I did run a compression test after the 500 mile break in and the results were impressive.
The lowest #

The highest #

This is to be expected given the high compression.




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[philakamrbean]

When you had the block bored, did the machine shop have a torque plate for the motor? When you polished the cams, was the pitting on lobes an issue or clean up?

Edit: disregard about the torque plate.

[swap_file]

st.petebiodiesel: Did you have your block bored to 86.4mm or 86.5mm?

The VAC spec sheet you posted lists the bore as "3.406 inches", which is 86.5mm, but you mentioned boring to 86.4mm in your posts.

I'm doing a similar S52B32 clone with a M50TUB25 block, M54B30 crank and rods, and JE 297172 Pistons (listed as 11.5:1 compression with a bore of 86.5mm), and I'm not sure what I should tell my machinist to bore it out to.

I'm thinking I should just drop ship the pistons to my machinist so he can match it up exactly.

[st.petebiodiesel]

st.petebiodiesel: Did you have your block bored to 86.4mm or 86.5mm?



The VAC spec sheet you posted lists the bore as "3.406 inches", which is 86.5mm, but you mentioned boring to 86.4mm in your posts.



I'm doing a similar S52B32 clone with a M50TUB25 block, M54B30 crank and rods, and JE 297172 Pistons (listed as 11.5:1 compression with a bore of 86.5mm), and I'm not sure what I should tell my machinist to bore it out to.



I'm thinking I should just drop ship the pistons to my machinist so he can match it up exactly.

no good machine shop will bore a block for larger pistons without the pistons in hand.
I never even noticed the bore was 86.5mm. I provided my pistons and my spec sheet when I dropped off the block at the machinist.


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[st.petebiodiesel]

I finally dynoed this engine in my e36. I was expecting to make maybe 210-215 at the wheel.

Here are the mods:
-M50B32 12:1 compression running 93 with a can of Turco. Est octane 98.
- S52B32 cams stock timing, rebuilt vanos.
- M50 Intake manifold.
- Riot Racing BBTB
- Turner motorsports underdrive pulleys.
- Ebay headers, but stock obd1 exhaust (very restrictive where the 2 banks merge into 1 for the o2 sensor)
- RK OBD1 tune.
Here are the graphs.


234whp and 224 wtq. Not bad for a 3.2 on stock cams. Time to find a e30 to swap it into.

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