24v 91 318'..I've lost hope..No fuel/ No Spark

[Edvo34]

quick facts
1991 318i sedan. og m42/5 Speed
1995 e36 325i sedan m50tu
-1994 325i manual harness and red label 413 ecu
-1995 325i auto harness and secondary 413
-garagistic harness adapter

hey everyone. I've been trying to get my e30 running again, but to no avail. Ive pieced together an entire swap for my e30. Slowly but surely i've got the swap mechanically completed. I HAVE A No fuel/No Spark/ No ICV buzz / No check engine light. nothing. It cranks hard, very hard. I've read, read, and read plenty of threads on the issue and i cannot find the issue.

-I've installed additional engine grounds
-fixed fusible link, 12v+ at the firewall now.
-CPS clocked in at 510ohms
-jumped fuel pump relay to test FP, all good when jumoed
-checked every pin that I can think to check? im open to ideas?
-continuity tests on major pins
-Purchased (2) Red Label 413 dme's and (2) engine harness's, one auto/manual

Is it safe to assume my wiring adapter is done correctly? Im having a hard time believing that both harness's and both dme's could be the issue. It has to be something chassis wise.

I've read of some owners having issue with their obc relays, im not sure my e30 came equipped with one as I find nothing under the dash.

I'm really stumped, as ive been at this for weeks now.. im slowly running out of ideas. If anyone has any in sight or any suggestions at all.. please dont hesitate to help lol.

Thanks in advance!

[e30davie]

I dunno much about the wiring adaptor, but if its supposed to connect all the bits you have together and it doesn't work...then id be contacting garagistic for advice.

if you are getting nothing at all, it suggests to me that something fundamental to the wiring is not working. Main power etc. id start by looking at how the ECU gets power and start tracing it back through the adapter.

Assuming its not some sort of security thing holding you back.

[straight6pwr]

13 button OBC with CODE feature? no fuel/spark but still getting the crank sounds like the engine 'immobilizer' feature of the OBC.

if so, some have reported you need to enter a new code after reconnecting the battery.
key to position 1, press CODE button on the obc, input new code.
key to ignition off.
turn key back to position 1, input the code, then ignition off again. then the car should start as normal.

[BenjaminButtton]

13 button OBC with CODE feature? no fuel/spark but still getting the crank sounds like the engine 'immobilizer' feature of the OBC.

if so, some have reported you need to enter a new code after reconnecting the battery.
key to position 1, press CODE button on the obc, input new code.
key to ignition off.
turn key back to position 1, input the code, then ignition off again. then the car should start as normal.

m42 car shouldn't have had a 13 button originally - I'm pretty sure they were all 6 button cars.

[ba114]

confirming that you have the fuel lines hooked up correctly? Middle line on the frame rail is the feed, bottom line is the return

[Edvo34]

I dunno much about the wiring adaptor, but if its supposed to connect all the bits you have together and it doesn't work...then id be contacting garagistic for advice.

if you are getting nothing at all, it suggests to me that something fundamental to the wiring is not working. Main power etc. id start by looking at how the ECU gets power and start tracing it back through the adapter.

Assuming its not some sort of security thing holding you back.

I appreciate your input, yeah I've done continuity tests to insure the harness was correctly made. Every pin checks out..I'll go ahead and call them to see if they have any advice. The only thing i've read about "security" is the obc. Apparently some e30s have them wired in, i've looked under my dash for the relay. nothing.

[Edvo34]

confirming that you have the fuel lines hooked up correctly? Middle line on the frame rail is the feed, bottom line is the return

thank you for the tip. But the fuel pump isn't even priming. at all. well unless jumping the relay.

[Edvo34]

13 button OBC with CODE feature? no fuel/spark but still getting the crank sounds like the engine 'immobilizer' feature of the OBC.

if so, some have reported you need to enter a new code after reconnecting the battery.
key to position 1, press CODE button on the obc, input new code.
key to ignition off.
turn key back to position 1, input the code, then ignition off again. then the car should start as normal.

Ill try that! but where do i find said new code?

edit: MY 6 button obc doesnt have a code button

[TheRob]

Do you have power actually getting to the control module? I believe its pin 54 on the red label, should be coming from the DME relay. Not just continuity but confirmed 12 volts at the proper pin. You could also check to see if you have a 5 volt supply voltage at your TPS, because its easy to get to, to insure the DME has proper output voltage for various sensors. Also, though just a rumor as I don't think its been confirmed, but I read somewhere the case of the DME should be grounded. I know on my car, I had similar issues and once I actually attached the case of the DME to a ground I started to hear the ICV buzz. Maybe it was just coincidence though as I ended up having a faulty DME which is not the problem in your situation.

[sassen]

Please make sure you have a NEW CPS crank position sensor, the one in the front of the car, ask me how I know, and make sure that it is connected correctly. All those wires you are talking about don't even need to be wired, the harness needs like 1 or two as long as you have Red Label 413 it should fire, I went through the same ordeal and I almost lost my mind.

Trust me you cannot and should not rely on CPS Ohm measurements, at least swap one from a starting car if you don't want to buy one.

[Edvo34]

Please make sure you have a NEW CPS crank position sensor, the one in the front of the car, ask me how I know, and make sure that it is connected correctly. All those wires you are talking about don't even need to be wired, the harness needs like 1 or two as long as you have Red Label 413 it should fire, I went through the same ordeal and I almost lost my mind.

Trust me you cannot and should not rely on CPS Ohm measurements, at least swap one from a starting car if you don't want to buy one.

Im working on getting a new oem cps. I've recently replaced my cps with an import direct one, not trusted I know but i wanted to try it. No avail.

Do you have power actually getting to the control module? I believe its pin 54 on the red label, should be coming from the DME relay. Not just continuity but confirmed 12 volts at the proper pin. You could also check to see if you have a 5 volt supply voltage at your TPS, because its easy to get to, to insure the DME has proper output voltage for various sensors. Also, though just a rumor as I don't think its been confirmed, but I read somewhere the case of the DME should be grounded. I know on my car, I had similar issues and once I actually attached the case of the DME to a ground I started to hear the ICV buzz. Maybe it was just coincidence though as I ended up having a faulty DME which is not the problem in your situation.

ill go ahead and test the cps for voltage.

[M3PO]

Do you have power actually getting to the control module? I believe its pin 54 on the red label, should be coming from the DME relay. Not just continuity but confirmed 12 volts at the proper pin. You could also check to see if you have a 5 volt supply voltage at your TPS, because its easy to get to, to insure the DME has proper output voltage for various sensors. Also, though just a rumor as I don't think its been confirmed, but I read somewhere the case of the DME should be grounded. I know on my car, I had similar issues and once I actually attached the case of the DME to a ground I started to hear the ICV buzz. Maybe it was just coincidence though as I ended up having a faulty DME which is not the problem in your situation.

Just an FYI, my DME was sitting in the bottom of my glove box for a long time and the car ran fine.

Please make sure you have a NEW CPS crank position sensor, the one in the front of the car, ask me how I know, and make sure that it is connected correctly. All those wires you are talking about don't even need to be wired, the harness needs like 1 or two as long as you have Red Label 413 it should fire, I went through the same ordeal and I almost lost my mind.

Trust me you cannot and should not rely on CPS Ohm measurements, at least swap one from a starting car if you don't want to buy one.

+1 there are only a couple wires that it needs to run so I'd concentrate on those. Also, the CPS need to be a known good OEM CPS as it's basically the only sensor that the DME needs to see to start. Ohm'ing the sensor isn't a guaranteed way to know it's good.