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Old 10-16-2018, 10:57 AM   #241
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: WOT-Tech, Florida
Posts: 5,915
Use studs on the header. Over the years, I have never had luck with aluminum heads and header bolts. Studs with stover nuts has been the choice.

Also, if you bead roll or put a weld bead on the end of your pipes, you will eliminate coupler leaks. (I have also seen the "poor man's" strap where they put a strap from pipe to pip over the coupler to keep them from popping, sorta like this...

Too bad you moved so far north. I probably have a CHRA you could borrow and/or a stock exhaust so you could go to Spectoberfest. :/
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Old 10-16-2018, 11:23 AM   #242
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Palm Beach County, FL
Posts: 1,752
My cylinder head to header hardware is OEM stuff, either the studs back out or the nut loosens, I think the header flange is not flat and the heat cycles cause the fasteners to back off as it moves. I put bolts on the turbo to header due to studs backing out like they're bolts anyway after they rust together. As for IC piping, all pieces aside from one have a bead rolled in, that one piece has a "bead" crimped in with a modded vice grip. Anyway, it's the t-bolt clamps which were causing leaks, even tightened down they would leak where the bolt threads through and in every case except one a worm gear clamp fixed the leak. Haven't really blown any hoses off aside from the throttle body hose a few times.

Yeah it would be nice if you were a little closer, it's the out west part that makes it so far, 20min to get to I95 then another 45 to get down to where your shop is. I'm probably going to be riding down to broward county tomorrow after class to have my turbo rebuilt by one of the shops down there, it's unfortunate that they won't do it while I wait and I'm going to have to make 4 hour and a half trips
'91 318is, M20B25, T3/T04E 60 trim (15psi), megasquirt, coilovers, Z3 rack, cold AC
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Six in a row make it go.
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