What's your bleeding technique? You may be doing it incorrectly..
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temp rises at idle?
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Originally posted by KenC View PostWhat's your bleeding technique? You may be doing it incorrectly..
well i was told to run the heater full blast..but my heater doesnt work..it blows air but not hot, it has never given me a problem with overheating though...so after i do that...put more coolant...and run the car...with the cap out....i saw bubbles coming out of the system...then i ran the car for a while, bled it again, let it idle witht he ac on, bled it again, and again until coolant was coming off the bleed screw with no air....
or did i miss something??
thats how i bled it the last 4 times and it worked....
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That was hard to follow, but incorrect.
Heater doesn't work? Details?
I don't know where the idea of turning the blower motor on while trying to bleed the system came from, but I'm getting tired of telling people not to. All you're doing is cooling the engine down. Turn the heater temp all the way up, but keep the fan off. That will allow coolant to circulate through your heater core.
You can't bleed the system unless your thermostat opens and the lower radiator hose is hot. PERIOD. IMPOSSIBLE.Originally posted by Grueliusand i do not know what bugg brakes are.
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as for the heat not working, its always been like that since i bought it...im sure the heatercore is not working, it seems like its stuck open...but has never given me trouble...but since the radiator i bought had gunk and dirt im guessing all that might have caused it to clog? or something is clogged in the system
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Why the fuck make two threads for one issue?
Anyway, you've said that your upper and lower hoses both get hot so we know that:
1. your water pump is circulating water through the engine
2. your thermostat is opening
3. the system is at least somewhat bled
You've also said that you can hear coolant boiling in the engine and that there is a hole in your radiator. No?
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^ one was for my temp rising the other was if deleting the ac stuff would cause some sort of problem with the cooling system....
pump is definitely good, spins freely its not making noise, no leaks from there, plus its brand new...
both hose coming from the radiator are hot to the touch, and the lower hose is
some what warm, luke warm, when i turn the car off i can hear bubbling, and boiling noises coming from the thermostat housing...my radiator had a small needle size hose that i used some of "the good stuff" to patch it up for the mean time, works, no leaks, all the radiator gets warm no cold spots.....
im leaning now towards the thermostat being stuck open...
im running a brand new clutch that is 2 days old...that for some reason does not engage when the car starts to get hot...
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Ok tried to read through this thread best i can. You said temp "starts to rise" what does that mean in terms of where the needle is? Generally speaking, temp will go higher if the car is stopped/in traffic, but how high does it actually go?
Secondly,
Is your aux fan working? Correct me if im wrong guys (new to e30s) but the aux fan comes on under 2 conditions, 1)a/c is turned on 2)temp gets past certain point
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temp goes past the middle in terms of needle placement...aux fan has 2 speeds, so if your resistor is broken or not working it kicks in at the 2 speed, and by pases the first speed...but
i dont have an aux fan, no ac condenser, since i deleted it...it was crushed from an accident i had...
so while driving temp is normal right before the middle, as i stop and im stuck in traffic without moving the temp creeps slowly to the middle, after about 6 minutes on idle without moving temp goes a little past the middle....i turn the car off right past the middle, i never let it past that...and then i let the air out of the radiator and let it cool off for a few minutes before starting it again..once i let the air and pressure out of the radiator the temp goes back to normal..
while driving i have no problem with the temp its all based on when the car is idling
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Well theres your problem...a little past the middle is still fine. Keep it running and see if it stops or keeps climbing, if it keeps approaching the 3/4 mark than you still have a problem...but it might sit right there.
And im pretty sure your aux fan also kicks in at higher temps so you might want to put it back.
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FYI, there's an easy way to get your water pump out without risking destroying your motor (or more likely, your radiator fins) with a hammer. You see those two holes on the water pump flange that aren't normally occupied with bolts? There's no through holes behind them, and they back up right against the case. If you take the bolts you take out of your pump, and thread them through those two extra holes, they push against the block as you tighten them and back the whole pump out of the case.Reformed E34 addict. 1993 525i/5 - 1995 525i/5 - 1991 318i/C
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