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Can not find Sachs clutch and flywheel bolts

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    #16
    Originally posted by S.J.1981 View Post
    This is the part number for my vehicle according to the chassis code:

    11221717840

    It is also M12 x 1.5 x 28mm yet "ended"

    11227805885 is available and the same size, ECS tuning says they will fit.
    Just because RealOEM says "ended", doesn't mean it's NLA.

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      #17
      The only reason the bolts are "supposed" to be replaced is because they have sealant on them (not loctite). The bolt holes in the crank go through to the oil pan, so if they don't have sealant on them, they leak oil. As mentioned, they are not TTY. I also have reused the bolts countless times with no ill effect. Our race car has been using the same bolts since 2013 and has seen about 5 clutches since.
      john@m20guru.com
      Links:
      Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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        #18
        It took me a few days but managed to replace the clutch.

        Got to replace the rear main seal (and carrier gasket), resealed the transmission (new selector seal, rear output shaft seal and input shaft seal), pilot bearing and O2 sensor (since the exhaust was off) and new guibo disc.

        My driveshaft has the vibration damper behind the guibo, and it is rusted solid/fused. No matter how much we tried we could not remove it. I shall either send the driveshaft to a local rebuilder and ask them to remove it, or replace it with a used driveshaft in the future.

        All new bushings, o-rings and pins for the whole shifter assembly.

        Got a lightened chromoly flywheel (5.1 kgs) new locally (good performance parts store), new Valeo clutch kit. Replaced all the clutch related hardware with new bolts (flywheel came with new bolts).

        The most frustrating part was getting the top starter bolt and the bell housing bolt near that, it was all by feel, squashing my whole arm up the transmission and what not (yes we tilted the engine for more room). The transmission refused to go all the way in when we were done, we loosened the pressure plate and re-aligned the clutch (just incase) and it appeared that the new pilot bearing was stubborn, not allowing the transmission to fully clamp.

        So we lightly bolted one bolt on either side of the transmission and slowly tightened it. If we had any resistance then we would back off, but the bolts just slid in all the way and clamped the transmission and engine just fine. We double and triple checked every bolt, no issues and we were done.

        Test driving the car, the clutch is silly light, no noises, all gears shift just fine (yes including reverse). The lightened flywheel will be fun once the clutch is broken in (revs drop quickly but not too fast) and engine feels more...eager to rev (as one expected).

        Next week i'm going back to the DIY workshop to replace some items (managed to strip one of the transmission mount studs, manual said 44 nm and it stripped well before that for some reason) and we shall check for any leaks.
        Last edited by S.J.1981; 01-26-2019, 01:42 AM.

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