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Chase Bays rear brake hard line delete

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    Chase Bays rear brake hard line delete

    Thinking of using this part instead remaking all the hard lines and buying all the tools for the refresh job. Has anyone ever used this? Hows it holding up etc.

    thanks!!

    Link: https://www.chasebays.com/collection...-82-91-bmw-e30
    Last edited by othatseric; 04-01-2018, 06:21 PM.

    #2
    While not exactly what you're looking for, I had the rear feed line develop a leak just ahead of the T block last year. Luckily I had the subframe dropped for some other jobs, so it wasn't as soul crushing as it should have been to find the leak wasn't the block itself.

    I decided to redo the other two smaller hard lines while I was there; which while having never done that before felt like it took way too long. After spending the time for the two lines I decided there was no way in hell I was going to remake the long feed line, patched it up and just set the car aside until I could come up with an answer.

    I just purchased the Chase Bays kit and will be tackling that along with some other projects here in the not-to-distant future. For what the kit costs I felt like it greatly outweighs the frustration with having to bend and install a hard rear feed line.
    -Phil
    Delphin 89 325i | Dakar 95 M3

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      #3
      This looks interesting.

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        #4
        .
        Last edited by 96sohc; 04-17-2018, 04:44 PM. Reason: double post
        -Phil
        Delphin 89 325i | Dakar 95 M3

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          #5
          Long runs of soft line aren't used from the factory because they can increase sponginess in the pedal, especially over time. Same reason we don't do it in the race cars.
          Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

          Elva Courier build thread here!

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            #6
            Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
            Long runs of soft line aren't used from the factory because they can increase sponginess in the pedal, especially over time. Same reason we don't do it in the race cars.
            That's what my concern is with reading about that product. How is the pedal feel with this?
            Bryan - 1989 325i S50 swapped /1990 Audi Coupe Quattro

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              #7
              I've never done it for the reason I stated.
              Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

              Elva Courier build thread here!

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                #8
                Originally posted by skidplate View Post
                That's what my concern is with reading about that product. How is the pedal feel with this?
                so far it feels great, feels quite a bit better than the stock lines.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
                  Long runs of soft line aren't used from the factory because they can increase sponginess in the pedal, especially over time. Same reason we don't do it in the race cars.
                  For plain rubber lines, I could definitely see this, but with braided steel reinforced teflon lines, I'm not sure you could feel a difference, at least on a street car.

                  That being said, I'd worry about durability over time. Other than rust, steel lines should be a lot more durable than plastic lines, even if they are reinforced with braided steel. And if you are worried about rust, go either stainless or copper-nickel.

                  At the end of the day though, either option will work.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
                    For plain rubber lines, I could definitely see this, but with braided steel reinforced teflon lines, I'm not sure you could feel a difference, at least on a street car.

                    That being said, I'd worry about durability over time. Other than rust, steel lines should be a lot more durable than plastic lines, even if they are reinforced with braided steel. And if you are worried about rust, go either stainless or copper-nickel.

                    At the end of the day though, either option will work.
                    Fingers crossed i guess...lol

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                      #11
                      Reviving an old thread here, any feedback on this product after install? Found a leak in my main rear line along with corrosion throughout.

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                        #12
                        I would suggest getting nickle copper brake line and replacing the stock line. Nickle copper is softer than steel line making it easier easier to bend and make fittings for. The material in the line resists corrosion much better than steel. And its much cheaper than the chase bays part.

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                          #13
                          I’m not sure why the chase bays product would be more special than any other stainless soft line product. You’re replacing a brake hard line with a usable life of thirty years with a brake soft line that has a usable life that is much less.

                          It’s worth noting that the ONLY brake lines that I have ever had fail for reasons other than extreme age are braided stainless crimped lines. It’s much harder to get a good crimp on a braided line. You’ll note that a lot of SpecE30 guys have gone back to OE rubber soft lines due to braided line failures.
                          2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                          2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                          1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                          1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                          - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                          1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                          1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                          Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                          Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                          sigpic

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                            #14
                            They also sell a kit that replaces the factory dual circuit master+booster with a single circuit master...... because it looks better?
                            So you can probably assume they aren't aiming for oem levels of safety.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by plain325 View Post
                              you can probably assume they aren't aiming for oem levels of safety.
                              ^

                              A few of their products certainly make me question their thought process for products. They make a lot of products seemingly only because nobody else made one. The single master and these full flex lines are two good examples.

                              Flex lines expand more than hard lines period. The material of the braiding doesn't change this, but can make it better or worse just as overall quality of the hose does. You will have more sponge with these than with good hard lines.

                              The lifetime of a brake hose is also like a factor of four shorter than a hard line, so you're going to be facing replacement again sooner.

                              I don't have evidence but I imagine the probability of failure would be higher with this setup as well.

                              The single master is also terrible from a probability of failure perspective, even before you get into QC considerations with aftermarket master cylinders.
                              Originally posted by priapism
                              My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
                              Originally posted by shameson
                              Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

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