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Which Tie Rod Puller?

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    Which Tie Rod Puller?

    Any particular recommendations? Experiences?

    #2
    What do you need the puller for? You can replace them without one.
    Originally posted by Gruelius
    and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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      #3
      I'd prefer not to destroy the boots on the ends.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Eurospec
        I'd prefer not to destroy the boots on the ends.
        I just clipped the clamps and then slid the boots off before I attempted to remove the tie-rod. The new rods will have those thick rubber rings already on them, so you dont have to worry about destroying those.
        Originally posted by Gruelius
        and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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          #5
          I've had good luck with this style ball joint puller and it was cheap, ~$15:


          I think this style would work better, but I couldn't find one for a reasonable price locally:

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            #6
            Mine weren't that stuck... I was replacing mine anyways so I didn't care if I destroyed them.. but I think I could have gotten mine off by leaving the nut at the top of the bolt and tapping downward on the nut.
            E36 1998 M3 Coupe - Titanium Silver (M3 Tech Procedures)
            E30 1991 318i - Red (318i Tech Procedures)

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              #7
              I'm sick of wacking them with a hammer, so I got the one from bavauto.. I'm not sure how much it was, but if it will save 30-40+ minutes of hammering and cussing every time I have to work on the front end, it's worth it.
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #8
                the trick is not to hit the tie-rod, but you strike the strut housing right by the tie rod end. shouldnt take more than a wack or 2. if it takes longer, your hammer is 2 small, or your hitting the wrong place.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by mikeedler
                  the trick is not to hit the tie-rod, but you strike the strut housing right by the tie rod end. shouldnt take more than a wack or 2. if it takes longer, your hammer is 2 small, or your hitting the wrong place.
                  word. you have to whack the strut housing a couple of times before hitting the tie rod.
                  Originally posted by Gruelius
                  and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by redhatpat
                    I've had good luck with this style ball joint puller and it was cheap, ~$15:


                    I think this style would work better, but I couldn't find one for a reasonable price locally:
                    I bought the one from Bav Auto like the 1st one pictured there. It's supposively for all BMWs but it didn't fit for shit.

                    I ended up renting a tie rod puller kit from Advance Auto, and used the tool like the 2nd one pictured there. It tore up the boot, and I bent the bolt a little on the tool, but it got it out! But damn, beware of projectiles!
                    -Brandon
                    '86 325es S50
                    '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
                    '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
                    '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

                    For sale:
                    S50 TMS chip for Schricks

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by mikeedler
                      the trick is not to hit the tie-rod, but you strike the strut housing right by the tie rod end. shouldnt take more than a wack or 2. if it takes longer, your hammer is 2 small, or your hitting the wrong place.
                      or sometimes it just gets stuck and I can hammer on it all day and it won't pop loose. ~$30 isn't bad for a tool that will save me time and effort.
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by mikeedler
                        the trick is not to hit the tie-rod, but you strike the strut housing right by the tie rod end. shouldnt take more than a wack or 2. if it takes longer, your hammer is 2 small, or your hitting the wrong place.
                        True Story. Also... if that doesnt get it out you can put the nut on top so the top of the stud and the nut are flush with eachother then hit on that. Usually hitting the strut works though...

                        Will
                        RIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
                        Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
                        DaveCN = Old Man
                        My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!



                        Originally posted by george graves
                        If people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.

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                          #13
                          free tool rental

                          If you have a checker autoparts near you, they rent tools for free. They have several different pulling tools.
                          sigpic

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by redhatpat View Post
                            I think this style would work better, but I couldn't find one for a reasonable price locally:
                            i use one like this also, but a lil bit different. i LOVE having this tool, makes pulling the front strut job 1/2 the time.
                            IG: @Baye30

                            FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Eurospec View Post
                              I'd prefer not to destroy the boots on the ends.
                              Guess I got it easy, my boots were already destroyed when I replaced mine lol.

                              M50B25tu

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