M54. Let the foolishness begin.

[hoveringuy]

Check for a crack in the area between #5 and #6 spark plug bores in the top of the head. I've seen about a dozen of them. Usually the tell tail sign is the milkshake lookin coolant. And I'd recommend replacing the camshaft ledges (trays) and all lifters...depending on mileage and visible scoring on either surfaces.

The coolant that drained out of the head was bright, clear blue. The oil was fine. The seller says white smoke came out of the exhaust, but it ran Ok.

I'll know what the pressure check reveals in a few days, but could a compressed head gasked cause coolant to be sucked in on the intake stroke?

Good advice on the trays and lifters. It's a 90k mile motor.

[gregslow318i]

just wondering ware did you find the motor? was it a local?

[evil_twin]

zOMG I am subscribing to this awesome thread!

[hoveringuy]

I'm in limbo.

I dropped the cylinder head off at the machine shop yesterday. It measures .012 total warpage... the middle of the head is bowed up.

Argh!

They can't pressure test it because they don't have a plate wide engough to seal the mating surface, but it holds good vacuum on all the valves and there's no scoring on any lifters. Also, no cracks that he can see in the combustion chamber or on the top.

I think my plan is to have it thermally straightened and then skimmed, valves done. There's a reputable local shop that is quoting $450 for that.

So, do I commit to the engine with a vote of $$$ or take the less risky plan "B" and scrap the engine for the bottom end components?

[submwar]

you know what would help,

PICTURES!!! $450 sounds to be fair, but Id suggest you sleep on it. You could give it a shot, worse comes you'll be back to plan B with some good shape bottom end components.

[hoveringuy]

you know what would help,

PICTURES!!! $450 sounds to be fair, but Id suggest you sleep on it. You could give it a shot, worse comes you'll be back to plan B with some good shape bottom end components.

Pictures of what? I'll take pictures of things that are interesting along the way.

I'm also keeping a mental list of issues I need to figure out...
1) converting electronic throttle to cable. answer:TMS adapter plate.
2) M54 has a non-return fuel line. How will that work with the e30?

The regulated fuel supply is controlled by the fuel presure regulated integrated in the fuel filter. The fuel return line is also located on the filter.


3) cooling system is different. No spider hose, etc. Where do cabin hoses connect? Expansion tank?
4) DISA. The intake will work great with DISA disconnected but it would be nice to have it.
5) electronic thermostat. WTF? The motor has EPA and CARB written all over it. Will standard M50 "old fashioned" thermostat fit?

[Jean]

Keep it

[hoveringuy]

It's time for an update...

Cylinder head is back from the shop. It was heat straightened and decked .004. Good as new as far as I'm concerned and I'll even use the stock head gasket.

The block had pulled threads and I've installed 30mm Time Serts. Baum tools wants to sell you the 24.5mm ones for this but I've talked to some guys that had those pull out of the block, too. There's a reason no one says "tough as Aluminium". It's not a very tough metal and doesn't like getting hot. My block is fine now.

Anyway, I got the standard E34 oil pump and pickup tube and was messing around with that tonight when I realized the M54 oil pump is all different. Not even close. I will either need to switch in an e36 pump or fabricate a custom pickup tube. The M54 pump looks like it's got a larger capacity impeller. Anyone know for sure?

You be the judge... m50 vs m54 attached.

[gregslow318i]

I think you might be able to just use a m50 pump and pick up

[hoveringuy]

When I get home from work today I'll make a wire frame mock-up of the pan to see how difficult it will be to just shorten the existing pickup, give it some bends and get it in the right spot.

The M54 oil pump mounting flange only has one bolt, it's a different design with an O ring instead of a flange. The pickup will also need to be supported in a second place.

If I go with an M50 pump, I will also need to swap the sprocket and the chain. The M54 sprocet has 26 teeth; M50, 25. I could use the M54 sprocket on an M50 pump, but then it would turn 4% slower. I don't know if that would make much of a difference.

So, it looks like for the M54 BMW gave it larger impeller but drives it slightly slower. Could that be for double VANOS oil supply??

[PiercedE30]

I say just fabricate a custom pick up tube. It's not that hard.

[hoveringuy]

Fabricating the oil pickup

After some research I decided that I need to keep the M54 oil pump. It has higher capacity and pressure needed for the dual VANOS plus it's newer so it must be better. The E34 pickup is useless on this pump so I need to fabricate a custom one for the E34 oil pan, which will fit just fine.

I made a model of the oil pan using some wood. Oak. German oak harvested from the Black Forest. BMW told me to do it this way so it's Ok.

The original pickup had a nice 90 degree bend that I harvested and welded to the attaching flange. Cut the pipe, add the pickup bowl with the metal screen. Amost done. It's not the best welding but I've always felt that if you put enough slag on anything it will hold. Argon is on my shopping list.

When I get it all done I'll test fit the pan with some playdough in the bottom and see how close I am to the right clearance.

I'm not comfortable having the pickup held with only one bolt at the top. It's secure but acts like a resonating pendulum and I've heard about this thing called metal fatigue that makes me want to add a second point of attachment. I'll ponder that over a beer tonight.

I've taken the stock windage tray off and will use the one in the E34 pan exclusively. In this picture you can see the triangular re-enforcing tabs that BMW added to tie the bearing cap to the side of the motor. I guess that's a provision for the aluminum block flexing more?

[mattdk318i]

those welds concern me. But overall it looks good.

[PiercedE30]

Yea, I would have definitely TIG'd that.

[hoveringuy]

I agree, flux core wire isn't the best for this. Once I have it done I'm taking it too my buddy's house who has a Tig. It's plenty strong but ultimately the weak part is the metal tab on top so that's why I need a second attachment point.

Also, I forgot to mention that this motor has piston oil squirters! That's a nice unexpected bonus.