Weak Brakes!!

[gespinal0301]

So my brakes have never been the highlight of my car. I've rebuilt the calipers over 2 years ago (no leaks so I'm assuming I did it right), I have HPS pads, ATE rotors, and stainless steel lines all around.

I've bled the system more times than I can count and I still have pretty crappy brakes. It's been a while since I've been driving like this so I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction.

I'm ordering the UUC BBK soon and I'm hoping this will fix the issue, but any other suggestions are welcome.

The master cylinder doesn't leak and I believe my brake booster is functioning properly, but I'm not sure how to test it. My pedal is a little soft and I have the same braking power whether the car is on or off.

[ForcedFirebird]

BBK won't fix it if you have a hydraulic or assist issue.

If the car feels the same on/off, it sounds like you have a hydraulic issue. With engine on, you should have assist and the pedal would normally be "softer" since the engine vacuum is helping you depress the pedal.

Over the last ~4-5yrs I have noticed a lot of e30's coming in the shop with plugged up hard lines.

First make sure they are bled properly. If they are, then leave the car off and press the pedal with a quick "stab" of your foot. If the pedal keeps traveling down slowly, you may have a broken seal in your master cylinder and it bleeds the fluid past the piston.

If you are bled proper, take the time to drain the fluid from the master reservoir, then disconnect the lines at the ABS pump and blow air through them to verify you don't have any clogs.

Where in FL are you? Even if you aren't local to our shop, can point you in the right direction for assistance as we have friends all across the state.

[gespinal0301]

BBK won't fix it if you have a hydraulic or assist issue.

If the car feels the same on/off, it sounds like you have a hydraulic issue. With engine on, you should have assist and the pedal would normally be "softer" since the engine vacuum is helping you depress the pedal.

Over the last ~4-5yrs I have noticed a lot of e30's coming in the shop with plugged up hard lines.

First make sure they are bled properly. If they are, then leave the car off and press the pedal with a quick "stab" of your foot. If the pedal keeps traveling down slowly, you may have a broken seal in your master cylinder and it bleeds the fluid past the piston.

If you are bled proper, take the time to drain the fluid from the master reservoir, then disconnect the lines at the ABS pump and blow air through them to verify you don't have any clogs.

Where in FL are you? Even if you aren't local to our shop, can point you in the right direction for assistance as we have friends all across the state.

When I'm on lunch I'll check to see if the pedal travels further. As of now I have an internship in South Carolina until August, if you happen to know anyone in NC or SC area please let me know cause I've been trying to fix this issue for a while now.

[gespinal0301]

So I did the quick stomp and the pedal doesn't drop at all once it hits a certain point it just stays there.

I am noticing that for the first inch of pedal travel the brakes don't engage so I'm going to buy a power bleeder because I've done the two man method at least 5 times on this car. Hopefully that will clear anything that's in the hard lines. I'll also double check all the lines to make sure they're snug and not allowing air to enter.

[Miguel801]

Hmm

I have same pads and I noticed like a good percentage more stopping power that starts poorer than oem until like a simple couple stops from 40 to warm them up then they are very noticeably better, especially in the high speeds. also maybe smoke test the brake booster?

[cheffy30]

i just replaced my master cylinder... stops on a dime now.

[Miguel801]

So you noticed a definite performance difference with the master cylinder?

[cheffy30]

So you noticed a definite performance difference with the master cylinder?

like night and day. at one point the pedal was spongy and nearly to the floor, then somehow recorrected itself and then it happened again.
stops on a dime now.

[gespinal0301]

like night and day. at one point the pedal was spongy and nearly to the floor, then somehow recorrected itself and then it happened again.
stops on a dime now.

Where did you get your master cylinder from? And would it be worth it to upgrade to the e32 MC?

[ForcedFirebird]

Cheapest I have found is rockauto. I have them at the local delivery warehouse, but they are ~$200-ish. Just yesterday a member of Spec e30 linked rockauto and they were closer to $100. My problem is when cars come in the shop, they don't want to wait for mail order, usually want their car back the same or next day.

[Andre3127]

Cheapest I have found is rockauto. I have them at the local delivery warehouse, but they are ~$200-ish. Just yesterday a member of Spec e30 linked rockauto and they were closer to $100. My problem is when cars come in the shop, they don't want to wait for mail order, usually want their car back the same or next day.

If we're going for cheapest, autozone has them rebuilt for $40 if you give them your core.

This one is for a car without ABS

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/master-cylinder-brake-system/remanufactured-master-cylinder-brake-system/707760_0_3508_6831

[ForcedFirebird]

$40 is ridiculous. The rebuild kits are half that lol. Not sure I would trust an overseas rebuild procedure, but it might work. When they are only a little more than double that new, taking your life in your hands (brakes!), $100 is short change.

[gespinal0301]

I checked Rockauto they have 3 brands centric ($90), raybestos ($150), and A1 cardone (not in stock). I haven't heard of any of these so can someone comment about their quality?

[ForcedFirebird]

Derp, those are all rebuilds. What I sell are authentic Girling or ATE.

Centric is decent. Still Chinese, but have been using their rotors for years. Cardone is advance auto rebuilder brand. Raybestos used to be a Domestic company that did rebuilds in the NE (Conn. or NJ?), but haven't used them in a while. Either way, all 3 are reman, not new.

EDIT: Just checked my local warehouse inventory. The Girling is actually a Dorman product reproduction (new, but clone) and have them for $206. Also have authentic new ATE which is less for some reason at $196 (OEM supply)

[gespinal0301]

Sooooooo would any of the rebuilds be of any good quality? I was looking at the e32 MC and bimmerworld sells a uro one for 70 & fcp carries the ate one for $150.

Too many decisions to make haha