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making an E30 Hardtop?

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    making an E30 Hardtop?

    Hello, this is my first post. I've been looking into making a hardtop for my 90 IC and was wondering if anyone had the precise dimensions of a OEM hardtop I could go off of. It would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking about creating a low profile removable roll cage to either mount the top to or build them attached to each other for structural reinforcement. I am adept in tig, stick, mig and oxy acetylene welding. I have already created a wood removable glass window that seals into the back of the existing top. Thanks for the assistance!

    Last edited by Better_Than_Bad; 01-20-2018, 01:01 PM. Reason: Adding pictures

    #2
    Well, first of all welcome.

    I have a hard top. I don’t mind getting dimensions for you. Not to poopoo on your project, but this seems like such an incredibly huge and insurmountable task. What are you planning to do for seals? How will you make the latch down mechanism? I really think that if you want a hard top, it’s probably better to just suck it up and buy one.
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      #3
      So my plan was to also consider building a hardtop that would just attach to the existing top. I would remove the canvas this would allow you to remove the hardtop to put the frame into the stock position. Seals wise (if I was to start from scratch) I was planing on creating seals with silicone based on the OEM designs. I'm not denying it's not a tall task but I believe it would be worth not spending the increasing amount for hardtops.

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        #4
        Making the frame from 3/32" birch or mahogany plywood, I'd go with a single piece cutout. I'd probably try and find some way to steam and shape it as well, to try and reduce the peel-back you'll get at the upper corners. If you could find a good firm plastic sheet stock, that might be better, since the plywood will delaminate over time. Given that you're starting with the ragtop frame, seals should all still be on there and mostly close enough to still-intact for your purposes.

        You have GOT to take this to the E30 Picnic up in Parkland this summer! I am super curious to see what you come up with; lots of folks will be. Whatever state it's in, if it can make I-5 or the back roads up from Oly, it will be a treat to see and a blast for you to show off. Trust me, this will not be the only DIY on the grounds!

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          #5
          Originally posted by bobdavisnpf View Post
          Making the frame from 3/32" birch or mahogany plywood, I'd go with a single piece cutout. I'd probably try and find some way to steam and shape it as well, to try and reduce the peel-back you'll get at the upper corners. If you could find a good firm plastic sheet stock, that might be better, since the plywood will delaminate over time. Given that you're starting with the ragtop frame, seals should all still be on there and mostly close enough to still-intact for your purposes.

          You have GOT to take this to the E30 Picnic up in Parkland this summer! I am super curious to see what you come up with; lots of folks will be. Whatever state it's in, if it can make I-5 or the back roads up from Oly, it will be a treat to see and a blast for you to show off. Trust me, this will not be the only DIY on the grounds!
          I was thinking if using the same method they use for building boats with fiberglass. Creating a mold using lattice. This would allow me to use thin wood to create a mold that mirrors the OEM.

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            #6
            for fiberglass it would be easier to create a mold from an existing hardtop rather than form one from scratch over a soft top frame. If you want to use boat building techniques, laminate it from thin strips of cedar, glue them up with resorcinol then glass it and finish up with a gelcoat. Steam may be essential to get wood to take the curves
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