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E30 Street/TimeAttack (+ E36 V8 Turbo Touring)

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    I'm afraid multi-rib needs a separate tensioner.

    It would utilize those non-countersunk holes, the hub would have three non-threaded holes too and the trigger wheel would be threaded (or countersunk bolts from the other direction with threaded hub, which would make tightening afterwards quite hard though) :)
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      Awesome!!

      Originally posted by Miuge View Post
      Hello everybody! My name is Mikko, I live in Finland and I've been building my E30 for years slowly with love and emotion.. Car is pretty much pure track build with a bunch of my designed and fabricated custom parts. Some of you might have seen my project pictures at r3vlimited facebook group, now I finally got myself registered here :)
      So where should I start then... I have LOTS of pictures and also as much story to tell, but I'll just offer you a short list of the modifications I've done or what I'm going to do:

      Engine:
      -M30B35 twincharged with Eaton M112 and maybe a PT6766 or similar
      -Water to air intercooler (pic)

      Drivetrain:
      -ZF GS6-53DZ gearbox (pic)
      -E60 M5 differential (pic)
      -E60 M5 driveshaft (pic)
      -E34 output shafts

      Suspension:
      -K-sport Track coilovers (pic)
      -E36 M3 spindles front (pic)
      -Modified E34 M5 rear axle (pic)
      -DTM style adjustment in every corner (pic)

      Brakes:
      -Porsche Cayenne Brembos 6- and 4-pot (pic)
      -E46 M3 discs front (pic)
      -E34 M5 discs rear
      -Pedalbox (pic)

      Steering:
      -E46 steering rack (pic)
      -Electric power steering pump

      Wheels:
      -17" 5x120
      -275/40 front, 315/35 rear

      Chassis:
      -FIA rollcage
      -lots of fiberglass

      Pictures in my Photobucket:
      Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!








      Don't forget to like our Facebook page, we might have some cool stuff there
      MRT Engineering, Ylöjärvi. 7,491 likes · 1 talking about this · 15 were here. Performance parts and accessories CNC machining TIG welding



      Thanks,
      Miuge
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        Originally posted by Miuge View Post
        I'm afraid multi-rib needs a separate tensioner.

        It would utilize those non-countersunk holes, the hub would have three non-threaded holes too and the trigger wheel would be threaded (or countersunk bolts from the other direction with threaded hub, which would make tightening afterwards quite hard though) :)
        Ah well, lots of choices for tensioners out there ;)

        Your solution was as I suspected. Sounds like the ring would need to be installed before the hub so you could do counter sunk bolts from behind and potentially get more thread engagement in the hub. Although I do not know the material or dimensions you're working with so that may not even be a concern.

        Keep it up!

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          Yes it needs to be installed first to keep the design simple. There's still plenty of room behind the trigger so I could add nuts behind it or weld threaded sleeves to the wheel for more engagement.
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            Nice working point with the damper, ppm sells one for the m30/s38's but after the delay with my valves I'd be hesitant to buy one.

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              Yeah I know they have a product available, but for me it's no use since I'm not going to use v-belt or need a direct bolt-on part.
              Someone looking for a cheaper solution with skills to carry out multi-rib belt conversion could get the ATI damper shell assembly for $350 (2-ring variation even cheaper) and our complete custom hub + trigger wheel will probably be less than $300 total (how much less depends do we get any interest in this). :)
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                I made two more flanges, one for water in and another for water out, I'll weld 40mm bends to both flanges. No more need for that big thermostat housing because EWP ;D


                Earlier I acquired boxful of silicone hoses for coolant and charge pipes from size range 16mm to 100mm:
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                  This just gets cooler & cooler.

                  I need to figure out a multi v alternator, & water pump pulley to make use of the ATI option

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                    Quick update of the ATI damper :) I'm currently printing 1/3 of the trigger wheel.. why didn't I buy a bigger printer...
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                      This thread is too epic...damn

                      29 Model A // 55 GMC 100 // 66 C10 // 72 BMW 2002 2.7 M20 Turbo // 75 CB500T Custom // 04 BMW M3 // 13 BMW 328i Sport

                      72 BMW 2002 2.7 M20 Turbo Build Thread // INSTAGRAM
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                        I think I should start doing something more concrete soon

                        But here's the finished prototype!
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                          Is your electric water pump remote? Where will you connect the feed and return on the engine?

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                            It's remote Davies Craig EWP150, feed goes to that big flange where the orginal pump supposed to be and return is in cylinder head front corner + back of the head.
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                              Originally posted by Miuge View Post
                              It's remote Davies Craig EWP150, feed goes to that big flange where the orginal pump supposed to be and return is in cylinder head front corner + back of the head.
                              Where will the radiator connect? I'm missing something obvious in the electric water pump set ups.

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                                Radiator connects between the return line and pump, pump is on the cold side pushing coolant to the block. Thermostat and engine's internal circulation is replaced with variable pump rpm in ewp applications.
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