Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

operating temp

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    operating temp

    pretty sure I have a stock (88 C) thermostat in my car...however I notice the temp gauge barely creeps above the 1/4 mark. maybe 1/8" over the line.

    I thought the temp needle was supposed to be at or slightly below halfway, any ideas?
    1991 318is ---230K - DD
    1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

    Originally posted by RickSloan
    so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

    #2
    Thermostat could be stuck or inop, or even in backwards. Temp gauge could be faulty, maybe check your IC ground. Bad mix of coolant, or an always on fan could be other culprits, although those are a stretch.

    Comment


      #3
      Must have tool. $30 at harbor freight
      Attached Files
      NASA
      BMWCCA member
      PCA member 25yrs




      1991 318IS slick top
      1997 M3 sedan
      2001 325CI DD

      “whoever turns the wheel the least, wins"

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by e30s50dan View Post
        Must have tool. $30 at harbor freight
        I have a one of those thermometer guns - where would I take a reading from?

        It's all brand new coolant - BMW blue even (50/50 with distilled water)

        The fan is brand new and wired correctly, the whole car has been restored, its an e36 m42 engine, but I dunno that that would make a difference, and I believe when I painted my instrument panel needles I tightened all the nuts down in the back because of the erratic conditions loose ones cause (the needle never jumps around, just warms up to 1/4)

        The only other thing I can think of is an incorrect thermostat, I'll check the temp with the gun and report back

        pic for attention

        1991 318is ---230K - DD
        1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

        Originally posted by RickSloan
        so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

        Comment


          #5
          If you want the temp gauge to be accurate, go aftermarket. My stock one basically sat at halfway during regular operations, then would quickly climb to 3/4 when idling in grid at races, then quickly drop back to 1/2 when my Spal fan kicked on. It certainly wasn't linear and I wouldn't trust it any more than anything else in the e30 gauge cluster (which is to say, very little). And btw mine never was below 1/2 EVER except when the engine was cold.

          I use a VDO standalone gauge for oil and water temp, which reads actual temperature and not a vague range.

          Mine generally runs at about 205* during hard driving, and 210* at the end of rallycross runs (when my fan kicks on). I think the M42 is supposed to run right at 200* during regular light-throttle cruising though.
          Last edited by irish44j; 10-31-2015, 08:10 PM.
          Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
          Track/street e21 build
          visit Condor Speed Shop
          visit Motorsport Hardware



          [FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI

          Comment


            #6
            That's exactly where my 318is runs at - 1/8 inch past the 1/4 line. I have a completely refreshed cooling system. I think your car is running properly and from talking to others, it is common for them to run in that area of the gauge.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Dust2glory View Post
              That's exactly where my 318is runs at - 1/8 inch past the 1/4 line. I have a completely refreshed cooling system. I think your car is running properly and from talking to others, it is common for them to run in that area of the gauge.
              IDK, I think the stock gauge is just lousy. I know for a fact that my car operates at the correct water temp (due to both direct readings and my VDO gauge), but it never, ever, ever was below 1/2 on the stock gauge except when the car was cold.

              I also have a completely refreshed cooling system and running a larger M3 aluminum radiator to boot, along with water wetter.

              YMMV though. There are easy ways to find out what the actual temp is. Just saying that reliance on the stock gauge is not the best idea.
              Last edited by irish44j; 10-31-2015, 08:14 PM.
              Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
              Track/street e21 build
              visit Condor Speed Shop
              visit Motorsport Hardware



              [FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI

              Comment


                #8
                curious thought: is your fan clutch working correctly? If it's not, the fan will be on all the time and may be keeping the water temps lower than they necessarily should be. The fan clutch should be disengaged during most regular driving, and only engage when at idle, or during hard driving, etc...
                Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
                Track/street e21 build
                visit Condor Speed Shop
                visit Motorsport Hardware



                [FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI

                Comment


                  #9
                  Maybe give this a try: Take out your cluster, there's a nut behind the gas gauge and one behind the temp gauge. Take the nut off and try cleaning it and the area it mates to. Put the nuts (deez nuts!!!) back on and give it a whirl. I did this when my gauges were acting up and it helped a lot.
                  fried chicken

                  Comment


                    #10
                    A little over 1/4 corresponds to 180f at the outlet of the water neck on mine...

                    t
                    now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Mine stays at 12 noon dead center, verify thermostat is correct, pull cluster and clean posts with fine steel wool, reinstall deez nuts tightly

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Good advice ITT, just wanted to add to the list of people whose temp gauge needle stays near vertical. It might move slightly past vertical once in a while if I'm running my AC and driving the car in traffic, at which point my MS readout says coolant temp is around 210. I have seen as high as 215 while autocrossing. My radiator is behind my intercooler though, so airflow isn't the best, and my car is far from stock.

                        IG @turbovarg
                        '91 318is, M20 turbo
                        [CoTM: 4-18]
                        '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
                        - updated 3-17

                        Comment


                          #13
                          - temps can vary from brand to brand with thermostats ( I have found that Wahler runs cooler and Behr Thomson runs closer to spec)
                          - pressure cap good and correct psi?
                          - air leaks in system?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Sounds like a thermostat problem, you said you are pretty sure it's a 88C one, you are positive there is one installed? Seems like a case of coolant circulation at all times of operation and the only logical reason why the car doesn't warm up to operating temp.
                            The fun never ends :-?

                            89 318iS
                            R.I.P 89 325i coupe
                            89 335iC

                            Comment


                              #15
                              sorry to jump on this, i never responded...there is 100% a thermostat installed, I believe it's from Autopart International, maybe I'll swap the brands, and verify operation in boiling water before installation.

                              My clutch fan runs all the time, never stops, right after startup to idling for 5 minutes, it's always spinning. It stops with slight pressure tho, so the clutch is probably toast, I guess I can change that. I have R&R'd the cluster - cleaned the post and the nut threads.
                              1991 318is ---230K - DD
                              1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

                              Originally posted by RickSloan
                              so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X