Teaser, bitches
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Looking good man, I have no idea what/why/how it looks good, but it looks like you are doing something right.
So glad I kept most of the crap from the computer tower I parted a while back. Any idea where I can get that jumper wire and connector extractor?- Trey
E90 325i/6 (ZSP, ZPP, ZCW)
E36 325i sedan
E30 325i sedan
Volvo 945TComment
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Ok, I got my amp in the mail, and I need advice. I'm using a stock e36 non-HK amp, and these are the pinouts for it:
I am confused, as it seems that there are two sets of inputs or two sets of outputs. The left connector (11-lead) has the standard power inputs and also four speaker inputs (LF, RF, LR, RR). The 26-pin connector, which is also on my amp, also seems to have inputs, as well as outputs that are labeled on the diagram to run to a ... crossover. Which, as far as I can tell, this amp is supposed to have internally.
Since I've so far failed at finding a useful description of how this amp is wired, can anyone suggest to me why there would be two sets of inputs? (assuming the wires on the 11-pin connector are indeed inputs)
Help is greatly appreciated. I'm off to look for ETMs.Comment
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how much do these c33 radios go for?Comment
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Has anyone found out a way to trick the radio into thinking the cd player is on but hook up an iPod? Also, would this work on a radio with a cd player instead of a tape deck?Comment
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Bringing this back up because I finally got a pigtail. Interior coming out tomorrow morning for other reasons, so might as well get this shit done, too. Plus, questions for Luke and Luke-type folks.
So, I have a 4 channel amp. The current plan is to amplify the two front component speakers, bridge the two remaining channels to run a sub (kicker 12"), and leave the C33 to drive the rears. Like so:
Questions:
- Is this dumb? It irritates my OCD to no end that there are three sets of wires running back and forth.
- The head unit I'm using, the C33, doesn't have a sub-level mono output. It seems wrong to split sub from just one channel... is this what I'll have to do? Can I combine the two fronts somehow when putting them into the bridged channel?
CheersComment
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Glad to see this thread back up, I was about to ask you in another thread how this was coming.
Once I get a hold of a decent, non-pixelated to hell C33, I'll probably be PMing you a lot.
Best of luck with the wiring mess.- Trey
E90 325i/6 (ZSP, ZPP, ZCW)
E36 325i sedan
E30 325i sedan
Volvo 945TComment
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From what I have learned the C33 (and most all of the oem head units) do not provide speaker level output and need to be amplified.
I am in the process of a similar setup and am planning on running the front and rear speakers off the 4 channel amp and running a sub off a second amp eventually.
The other option is to skip the rear stage.
Assuming your car was wired for premium sound, you can use the stock wiring from the head unit to stock amp to run power on, signal wires, etc to the AMP and the stock speaker wires from the AMP back to the front and rear stages. This will prevent the need for any new wires to be run, except from the battery to the amp.Comment
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My car wasn't wired for premium, unfortunately. I want to run proper speaker wires, anyway, so it's going to happen either way.Originally posted by digital_cowboy View Post
I've actually been running my C33 un-amped for the last few months, but haven't caught this thread up yet. It gets loud enough for me, but gets hot and loses pretty much everything except high frequencies.
What are you planning to run the sub off? The C33 doesn't have a sub-level output.Comment
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After researching more, it sounds like the C33 will output directly to the amp. It was suggested to run the channels to RCAs and use a body ground.
Output voltage is ~9v. This makes sense as the c33 (and most other oem head units) are designed to feed a oem amp.
Not sure it this is helpful, but perhaps a signal converter (such as this one) could help.Comment
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