Convertible Box? No way! Lets chat.

[RT325iVERT]

I personally am not a big fan of the Kappas, but that is just personal preference. I do like the Reference, though, or the basically identical JBLs.

Yes, they are better. They do not fit "well", and the rear on a vert is a pain. If you aren't in a huge hurry and are willing to do a little cutting, I will be producing custom door panel inserts. These will radically improve the looks, hide all the delaminating parts of your door panels and give you a place to put a NICE set of 6.5" components, plus have a nice OE+ look...and an integrated grille! (I am pretty jazzed about these, but logistics are a bitch).

If you want an improvement, yeah, they are fine...but honestly enough, not much better than the stock PS setup. The stock PS do have a better midbass by far though, virtually all aftermarket speakers sound "thinner", even on a 120Hz high pass.

I keep thinking I should whip us some simple 12db/oct crossovers and a replacement tweeter that would actually sound GOOD...but again. development is a bitch.

A quick update: I am waiting to speak to Grizz to make sure I am on track with the design, but it looks like this woofer is the one: http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test...bwoofer-review

Measurements show that the box may be as shallow as 6.5", meaning that it AND the optional amp rack just might fit completely under the top storage!

The test mule will use a STL 4.500 and a STL 1.600, both from Soundstreams Stealth series. Due to the fact that these woofers have a 2.5" voice coil and will be operating in a true bandpass enclosure, we should see power handling right around 800 RMS. The only issue with this is that leaves basically 2 amp choices, either a 1 ohm stable monoblock "Class D" type amp or a larger 2 channel, if you are looking to get the most out of your bass. Most 5 channel amps will not be happy with this arrangement, so you guys may have to use 2 amps to power your cars.

Luke

Actually door panels is a great idea , I haven't had mine off to see the room behind them . It is such a better placement than the kick . I will wait and see what you design for the door panel inserts .

Still excited about the sub setup I don't think two amps is asking alot for
a system that will sound really good , actually I will have to install the sub
system first then see what I want to do with the other speakers , what is missing most is the bottom end.

Keep us informed and thanks

[StereoInstaller1]

Luke so is this proposed vert setup going to remain budget oriented (I guess that term is relative) and relatively easy to install? I am super interested in good clean sound for my 89 but want to know what you are intending for overall cost to make the complete system work. Are you developing a complete system and/or components?

What do you recommend as steps to take to improve a totally stock system in a vert and can it be done incrementally and approximately how much do these upgrades cost?

I appreciate all the development you are doing and can't wait to see what the results are.

I always prefer people to do they system in steps, so they can know where to spend money appropriately.

I also ALWAYS prefer to keep things "budget", but I don't always have a choice. In the standard E30, I know of several woofers that sell for under $50 that kick ass when combined with an amp that sells for under $50, but that is just not going to happen here.

I may be selling these "loaded" already, but only if I end up with a "unique" woofer. Bandpass designs are WAY more critical of their woofer, even a tiny change of several different woofer parameters can radically effect the sound and power handling...so basically, if I expect the thing to perform, it has to be modeled on 1 woofer...but I would like to find a woofer that is available is SVC and DVC, and the parameters are similar enough to work properly at any impedance...but I think if I have to choose, the box will end up using DVCs.

I will be developing an amp rack, very similar to the E3010 amp rack. The thing is just dead sexy day or night!

[clayparkley]

I'm following this thread. Vert owner and can't wait till you're done with this :)

[DaveSmed]

I too own a bendy piece of crap that I feel is just not noisy enough.


Subscribed.


Oh, I have buttons on my dash that at one point in time might have had some effect on the roof. Either way, I suppose I would need a box sized accordingly.

[StereoInstaller1]

How would you guys feel about ventilating the trunk wall? I just do not have enough square inches to pressurize properly. I have been thrashing the calculator all day.

BTW: that chamber is 1.35 cubic feet. Just so you know.

You will have to punch holes in the panel behind the seat for sure. I have thinking dual 4" ports. I want to keep airflow at the lowest possible velocity, but I want it "easy" to install, too.

[DRTSRFR]

I don't mind cutting holes at all as long as the final result is stealthy.

[StereoInstaller1]

That metal is thick! Plasma cutter would be the smart way, that is for sure.

[Eike_Oak]

I don't mind cutting, but when you say it's thick, is ask why?
Is it tick to sustain the rigidity of the chassis? Would it be a good idea the reinforce the area around the freshly cut hole?

[IronmanE30]

That metal is thick! Plasma cutter would be the smart way, that is for sure.

Hi Luke,

I have cut up two verts, one power top, one not, and one coupe to take to the junk yard after I parted them out. The verts were much harder to cut the portion behind the rear seat than the coupe. It is not only thick but has an additional support that runs parallel with the ground and double layers where that coupe does not have them. I think this will be the hardest part of your design.

If you need pictures or measurements I have both power top and manual top verts here at the shop. I think this is a great idea but you have a job ahead of you making this the way you have done your previous projects. Perfect!;)

Cheers,

Jim

[StereoInstaller1]

Yes, it is very obvious why the metal is so thick, it is clearly structural. That is why one of my design goals is no mods to the car.

The power top stuff has me in a bit of a tizzy. I have a power top 'vert coming tomorrow, so I should be all good as far as that goes, the cars will sound the same. I can finalize the design and listen to it, see what happens.

As it is, I am pretty jazzed. The math shows that the trunk part of the box only needs to be 7.5" deep. Should be very easy to hide, even if you do the optional amp rack you should have decent trunk space!

[RT325iVERT]

So the box will be in the trunk and then ported into the cabin , but in a bandpass setup .
To me it sounds like there won't be a large amount of cutting , if that is the plan .

[StereoInstaller1]

So the box will be in the trunk and then ported into the cabin , but in a bandpass setup .
To me it sounds like there won't be a large amount of cutting , if that is the plan .

yes, exactly that. The goal is as little cutting as possible.

[RT325iVERT]

yes, exactly that. The goal is as little cutting as possible.

Good deal !!! keep me informed .:up:

[morningsmiler]

How would you guys feel about ventilating the trunk wall? I just do not have enough square inches to pressurize properly. I have been thrashing the calculator all day.

BTW: that chamber is 1.35 cubic feet. Just so you know.

You will have to punch holes in the panel behind the seat for sure. I have thinking dual 4" ports. I want to keep airflow at the lowest possible velocity, but I want it "easy" to install, too.

I just looked at mine to see if I wanted to cut holes and found out that the PO cut a 6x10 inch hole clean through.

Guess I learned a new place to look during a PPI. Ugh.

[StereoInstaller1]

I just looked at mine to see if I wanted to cut holes and found out that the PO cut a 6x10 inch hole clean through.

Guess I learned a new place to look during a PPI. Ugh.

Wow...like right in the middle of the wall, like where all the ribs meet?

OK time for a bad update: This build WILL NOT fit power tops.

I will, in the future, be making a power top version. The notches that will be necessary to make this happen are just too complex. You power top guys WILL get tended too, but I need a model for it, one committed to a full install.

Sorry, guys.

Luke