Marked for later! I think this would work great in my rebuild.
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FS: M20 Performance Camshafts from BimmerHeads
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What would it cost for a m30b35 regrind, what specs would I be looking at?
I know this has been asked, but I'll ask again... Any dyno numbers for the m20 regrinds? Or any dyno number for similar spec cams?90 325i DD/Track
03 Durango 5.9
Originally posted by e30mpgIt is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.
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Originally posted by 603Racing View PostWhat would it cost for a m30b35 regrind, what specs would I be looking at?
I know this has been asked, but I'll ask again... Any dyno numbers for the m20 regrinds? Or any dyno number for similar spec cams?
Sorry but I don't have any before/after dyno numbers to provide. I wish I did but none of my cars are even close to stock. Gains from a camshaft are also dependent on the exact engine and its supporting mods.
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For the sake of conversation, let's say a well maintained stock internal m20b25 with the following:
Mark D 93 octane chip
17 lbs injectors
Ebay headers
Cat delete
I'm not looking for hard numbers, just rough guesses. Nothing I would hold anyone to. You can PM me response if you don't want others taking your reply out of context or trying to apply it as fact.90 325i DD/Track
03 Durango 5.9
Originally posted by e30mpgIt is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.
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Originally posted by 310e30 View Posthis cams are great. i have one myself. top end pulls good.
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Originally posted by MR 325 View PostSorry but I just don't want to make any guesses.
Bump it up!90 325i DD/Track
03 Durango 5.9
Originally posted by e30mpgIt is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.
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Originally posted by 603Racing View PostUnderstood. Does the cam timing stay true to the OEM specs?
Any further questions please PM me!
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Originally posted by IDM View PostWill the 274 require upgraded HD valve springs? Or can the stock tired springs handle the valve float?
I am running this cam in my 267whp M20 with original (good) valve springs.
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Originally posted by MR 325 View PostValve float? Stock valve springs are FINE.
I am running this cam in my 267whp M20 with original (good) valve springs.
"Floating Valves" refers to a condition in which the valve-springs fail to fully close the valves, allowing them to "float" during the stroke cycle. Floating valves can result in valve-piston contact with consequent catastrophic mechanical damage. This is caused by revving the engine past it's red-line, or the maximum RPMs the engine was designed to run.
I once installed a schrick 284 with OEM stock (brand new) springs and the springs couldn't close the valve fast enough ie. valve float. The valve was hitting the piston slightly. Fixed it with schrick springs but had to tear the whole thing apart which sucked. Anyway, will contact you guys in a couple months for a P&P head and cam.
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Originally posted by IDM View PostYES, valve float.
"Floating Valves" refers to a condition in which the valve-springs fail to fully close the valves, allowing them to "float" during the stroke cycle. Floating valves can result in valve-piston contact with consequent catastrophic mechanical damage. This is caused by revving the engine past it's red-line, or the maximum RPMs the engine was designed to run.
I once installed a schrick 284 with OEM stock (brand new) springs and the springs couldn't close the valve fast enough ie. valve float. The valve was hitting the piston slightly. Fixed it with schrick springs but had to tear the whole thing apart which sucked. Anyway, will contact you guys in a couple months for a P&P head and cam.
A Schrick 284 cam is more aggressive than the cam I'm offering in this thread.
Please PM with any further questions. Thanks!
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