E30 Alarm Install Diagram UPDATED

[Staszek]

Thanks for all the help everyone, I updated my diagram with how I installed my alarm. Everything works great now.

[Staszek]

Anyone? Am I close lol

[reelizmpro]

It's really straightforward. No relays are needed because the e30 is already equipped with power door locks and dome light relay. The central locking unit will get it's signal from the alarm unit instead of the keyhole microswitch. That's why you splice into the lock and unlock wires. I didn't even use diodes on one install and it has been solid. IMO, all that is redundant. You do need a relay for starter interrupt if you are installing that feature.

[Staszek]

It's really straightforward. No relays are needed because the e30 is already equipped with power door locks and dome light relay. The central locking unit will get it's signal from the alarm unit instead of the keyhole microswitch. That's why you splice into the lock and unlock wires. I didn't even use diodes on one install and it has been solid. IMO, all that is redundant. You do need a relay for starter interrupt if you are installing that feature.

Really? Everything I read and everyone I spoke to on on here said you need relays for the unlock/lock. Can you show me how you wired that direct? You are the first person who I have seen posting saying you dont need it.

[reelizmpro]

Yeah, I know some people say you need relays. I've argued with a few of them about it too. Relays are needed if the car didn't come with central locking. Then you need relays to drive the actuators. If your central locking is spotty, doesn't work, etc. then using relays is a work-around, bypassing the original central locking. That's probably going to be more reliable as well. I think that's what the problem is here. Perhaps many peoples central locking isn't working and it's easier to just install new relays/wiring than to troubleshoot the old original system? I don't know. In my cars, I make sure central locking works. I change the door pins, dodgy actuators, etc. and everything has worked flawlessly for decades. I've had keyless E30's since 92, all using the factory central locking.

It's important to note that you're not splicing direct to the actuator, that will fry your unit. You're splicing into the lock/unlock trigger wires in the driver foot panel that goes to the central locking unit. The central locking unit does all the work and locks/unlocks all the actuators. It does this anyway, as if you were using a key in the door.

[Staszek]

Yeah, I know some people say you need relays. I've argued with a few of them about it too. Relays are needed if the car didn't come with central locking. Then you need relays to drive the actuators. If your central locking is spotty, doesn't work, etc. then using relays is a work-around, bypassing the original central locking. That's probably going to be more reliable as well. I think that's what the problem is here. Perhaps many peoples central locking isn't working and it's easier to just install new relays/wiring than to troubleshoot the old original system? I don't know. In my cars, I make sure central locking works. I change the door pins, dodgy actuators, etc. and everything has worked flawlessly for decades. I've had keyless E30's since 92, all using the factory central locking.

It's important to note that you're not splicing direct to the actuator, that will fry your unit. You're splicing into the lock/unlock trigger wires in the driver foot panel that goes to the central locking unit. The central locking unit does all the work and locks/unlocks all the actuators. It does this anyway, as if you were using a key in the door.

Very interesting my central locking works fine, I isolated it so it doesnt have that loop in the door anymore and the control unit is brand new.

Does it make a difference what type of alarm, the one argument I heard about using relays is that the newer alarms cant handle the different negative since the E30 is not 500mA

[reelizmpro]

I installed two omega mundial k9 and viper 300/350 alarms in my cars. The omegas just a few years ago. No relays were needed for the doorlocks. They even state in the manual, if ur car is equipped with pdl you wire directly to the CLU. All that's needed are ground pulses. The Omegas even have a double ground pulse feature for cars that require it.

[Staszek]

I installed two omega mundial k9 and viper 300/350 alarms in my cars. The omegas just a few years ago. No relays were needed for the doorlocks. They even state in the manual, if ur car is equipped with pdl you wire directly to the CLU. All that's needed are ground pulses. The Omegas even have a double ground pulse feature for cars that require it.

I wonder if yours has 900ma relay on board.

I will try it without the relay see if it works, mine is a cheapy $30 Scytek. I know its only 500ma

[reelizmpro]

The omega manual states -500mA ground pulse.

From the Scytek manual:

http://www.scytek.net/main/files/download/manual/galaxy/g20c.pdf

"Door Unlock Pulse. Selects between one pulse or two pulse operation for the door unlock output.
Vehicles that require two pulses on the proper wire to unlock the doors can be interfaced directly
without the use of relays or any additional circuitry by programming the system for double unlock pulse. "

It's the same thing for vehicles with single pulse.

Look at the diagrams for Negative trigger, just shows a splice directly to the central locking unit.

It's only when you ADD actuators, that you need relays since there is no central locking unit.

I have installed a Scytek before but that was in an 88 CRX without power door locks so a $20 door lock module (relays) was needed. It plugged right in to the brain with a harness. This wouldn't be necessary on an E30. From what I've read the Scytek and Omega K9 have virtually all of the same features right down to the programmable duration, double ground pulse for different vehicles with central locking. The Omegas remotes are much nicer though.

BTW, I have fried a Scytek by mistakenly wiring it direct to the actuator without a relay box on the CRX install. All that really happened though was an open trace on the mainboard. I jumped it with solder and all was well.

[Staszek]

OK I will try it out see what happens.

One more question, do I need to run a trigger to the trunk? Doesnt the central lock unlock both doors and the trunk when I hit it?

[reelizmpro]

Run a trigger wire to the trunk only if you want the alarm to see it as a door so it goes off when the trunk is opened. The central locking unit controls the doors, trunk and gas lid. They all lock/unlock with the CLU.

[Staszek]

Run a trigger wire to the trunk only if you want the alarm to see it as a door so it goes off when the trunk is opened. The central locking unit controls the doors, trunk and gas lid. They all lock/unlock with the CLU.

Ok yea so like I had it, perfect thanks!

[Staszek]

Run a trigger wire to the trunk only if you want the alarm to see it as a door so it goes off when the trunk is opened. The central locking unit controls the doors, trunk and gas lid. They all lock/unlock with the CLU.

And I am correct with picking the the br/black wire in the trunk for the trunk trigger right?

[reelizmpro]

I don't remember. Have a look and see what the color is or download the ETM for your car to be sure. I don't even think I had to run it all the way to the trunk light switch. I want to say I found it in the bundle going into the trunk area behind the rear seat-drivers side. You may even find it closer to the domelight module but it's a tight squeeze.

[StereoInstaller1]

Once again, I need to correct an alarm post.

Yes, you need relays.

The Omega has relays built-in, the Scytek doesn't.

The reason you need relays is not due to amperage draw, it's because the lock circuit "rests" on whatever mode it is in. You need the relays for isolation, not higher demand.

The Scytek will work for months just fine, but it will blow up eventually. Again, it's not an amperage issue, its because it basically is a dead short on the output wires.

Second: the black/white you have going to the left door, that won't work. That wire is intended to turn on the dome light when the system is disarmed, AKA "domelight surveillance"

You should find a wire in there (brown/purple?) that shows trigger for both doors, so just the green is needed.

Oh, the "diodes on the parking lights" is only needed if the car has a euro headlight switch.

Luke