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    New to E30's need some help

    Alright, so I bought a 325ic a few weeks ago and I am finally getting around to fixing things on it. I've read some stuff and just need help getting pointed in the right direction. I've looked through some previous threads and got an idea, but as I'm new to m20's a little help would be appreciated. Here's the back ground on it....

    88 325ic 5 speed
    -engine was rebuilt by PO about 60k ago due to timing belt failure (has receipt for rebuild)
    -PO did not know last time plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter or timing belt was changed (I have all these parts but not installed yet)
    -Has rough idle, will start fine now (after new battery, before it took a bit) and then will sit at about 800 rpm and every few seconds will rev down and then back up.
    -Acceleration is horrible, on a cold start it takes a few revs to get it going sometimes though it feels like it gets flooded and can't burn all the fuel and putters and almost dies. Once it's warmed up if I jump on it at about 4-5k it hesitates and then bucks a few times before going again
    -Throttle response is horrible, if I rev it once nothings happens other than it feeling like it got flooded and will die, if I give it a couple revs by the third one it's fine, but then will go back to having the same issue.

    Yesterday I took off the intake boot and air filter to examine and change the air filter. Air filter was dirty as heck and I changed it. The intake boot had an oily residue which I read was normal because of the PCV. Took some MAF cleaner and cleaned it out along with the MAF and ICV. I started the car without the MAF or intake connected and it ran exactly the same as before. I sprayed some MAF on the throttle body and gave it gas but again still sputtered a little before kicking in. Put it all back together and idle was a little better but still goes up and down every few seconds. Throttle response is still crap and it does smell like it's burning rich. I visually checked the vacuum lines only one that "seemed" bad was the one on the back of the intake manifold that connects to the front of the engine on that weird nipple one. I think this is the fuel pressure reg? I replaced it but the line I got was a tad to big and was whistling. I put a worm gear to temporarily hold it down but still did not change the idle or acceleration. Checked the intake boot for cracks and didn't see any.

    Now my natural thought from working on other cars is that my ignition system is not up to snuff and can't keep up with the Air/fuel mix. I read and some people had mentioned either faulty sensors TPS or the AFM was bad which was part of their problem. I'm going to tear into the timing belt and other things in the coming weeks but just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything I was missing. Thanks for the replies.

    #2
    E30s don't have PCVs, or MAFs..

    could be that the AFM is bad. Other things to check are the TPS and making sure the ICV can move freely.
    Build thread

    Bimmerlabs

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      #3
      My fault, still getting used to different terms. I read a post yesterday about listening for "buzzing" coming from the ICV but will probably need to get the multimeter out. What is the best way to check the TPS? Thanks

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        #4
        K read some more about the TPS. I was looking at it last night real quick, didn't have time to start taking stuff off, and it seems pretty gunked up in oil. So hopefully I will get some time and take it off and clean it. I did put in some lucas fuel cleaner and started the car and let it run for a bit. It seemed to idle a lot better this time around, would stay right around 800 and occasionally would just "putter" (reminded me of a cammed V8, but not nearly as mean). Took the car out for a test drive ran a lot better but still not 100%. Throttle response was still lacking and at times it just felt bogged down trying to get going.

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          #5
          if it's gunked with oil cleaning may not work. the oil gets inside and gums up the electronics, the only solution is replacement.

          the ICV will hum with the ignition on. turn the key and don't start the engine, you should be able to feel/hear it. That doesn't neccesarily mean it can move freely. to test that, take it off and see if you can move the valve around. it should slide freely. the ICV can be cleaned with carb or MAF cleaner if it's gummed up. Occasionally they fail electronically and have to be replaced, but usually the solenoid just gets sticky.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

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            #6
            Alright good to know. Thanks!

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