Cold start, Unable to drive.

[fiftytakedowns]

well no more 1244 code, car runs smoother, but didnt fix probelm.

[fiftytakedowns]

Made a youtube video showing the problem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu5npniUyl4

[tjts1]

Thats just weird. And it goes back to normal once its warmed up?

[fiftytakedowns]

yup, 100% normal

[tjts1]

Maybe coolant temp sensor? I don't know if you addressed that already.

[dannyyisntt]

Yep, yep. thats the same thing my ix does.

[///M42 sport]

Fuel pressure regulator?
Fuel filter?
O2 sensor?
idle control valve? Can lend or sell you my used one if needed.

Those are the things I can come up with.

I recently had major fuel delivery issues that decreased my throttle response and mpg.
came down bad ignition coil #1 and spark plug and new plug wires.

but not before replacing Throttle position sensor, ICV,

Also how will the stock ECU run with the mustang injectors?

[fiftytakedowns]

Fuel pressure regulator?
Fuel filter?
O2 sensor?
idle control valve? Can lend or sell you my used one if needed.

Those are the things I can come up with.

I recently had major fuel delivery issues that decreased my throttle response and mpg.
came down bad ignition coil #1 and spark plug and new plug wires.

but not before replacing Throttle position sensor, ICV,

Also how will the stock ECU run with the mustang injectors?

I swapped in a new fuel filter not to long ago.
Ive replaced my idle control valve with about 3 that I have seen in Junkyards. POST ICV the Hose seems to be collapsing. So I doubt that all 4 ICV I had are bad.

I have two computers
one with mARK D:
says I have bad coil one. *1271
- I did COP and it still said I had a bad Coil one. They Guy I bought the COP from (ZMblueDEvil) told me that he had been using them on his car with no problems.

2computer : all stock
said I had a bad Cam sensor, which I then Replaced, now it says I have no problems *1444

This Morning I tried fiddling with THE 02 sensor bypass plug plugging, and unplugging, with no Difference. however after Revving the car a couple times, it sortof smelled funny, like stinkbomb/ sulfur or something.
Plug I fiddled with:


checked the fuel pressure When I first got the car, which was good, but not the fuel pressure Regulator, (any info how to test it?)

Is there a distinct way to tell if the ICV is working? I cleaned mine multiple times. I'll post up another video in the engine bay if that helps.

[Michael_B]

it sortof smelled funny, like stinkbomb/ sulfur or something.

Is it possible you have a plugged cat? Years ago, my stepdad had a geo metro that acted very similar to the way yours does and it was an almost totally plugged cat. Might be worth a shot dropping the down pipe and see what happens.

[fiftytakedowns]

Is it possible you have a plugged cat? Years ago, my stepdad had a geo metro that acted very similar to the way yours does and it was an almost totally plugged cat. Might be worth a shot dropping the down pipe and see what happens.

I thought that too until I got a brand new one.

less than 2 months old...

[fiftytakedowns]

I Just spent a couple of hours goin over it all...... again....
This time I busted out my manual, and a multimeter to go and test the sensors.

I confirmed that the TPS is for sure Good. and the Coolant temp sensor is perfect. The Air flow meter sparked some question, but it followed what the manual said:
I tested the resistance between terminal one and two, and according to the manual it said that as the flap moves the resistance to change smoothly. So as it was moving along the flap it started at a resistance of 4k ohms, and moved up to 8K ohms as it neared half way, and changed smoothy to 2k ohms when it was fully open. It seems like it would continue to move to a higher ohm, but it instead has more like a plateau sort of reading.

I went over the IDle control valve. The old valve was stuck, so I tried to pry it open with a screwdriver, because I had really nothing to loose, and I just wanted to see what would happen in sort of a destructive way. well, it broke internally, and I replaced the ICV with a spare I had.

In the Manual it says that the ICV should be buzzing. when I had both ICV's hooked up, niether seemed to make a loud buzz. When I did the Screwdriver stethoscope sort of deal i heard a faint buzz, but it was so faint it seems like it could be confused with something going on with the motor. The Main boot was inspected for cracks, and it was good to go, as well as other lines in the system. One Concern was the oil bypass line that hookled up to the throttle body. It is a faintly bigger size hose, but it was tightened down VERY very tight, so that I doubt any air would be traveling through, I cleaned, re adjusted, and inspected some more.

Upon removing the intake Boot I saw that there was some White sludge in the oil. I was thinking to myself. fuck fuck fuck I hope my headgasket is OK, but I checked the oil, and found no coolant in the oil, or anything else. When I was checking to see if any more of that was coming from that oil vent line, and it was Not. even when running the car, no more oil was being vented from the vent.

I also tried running the car Without the ICV and I just got a mad erratic Idle, and still a bogging issue.

I cant say I really made any progress, but I just wanted to check all the sensors to see if they are allright. any tricks to find vacuum leaks If there are any? propane? This problem is driving me nuts, and it really sucks having to take 15 minutes to wait for the car to Fully warm up all the time in order for the car to really Work.

Is there A way to tell the computer the car is warmed up all the way all the time? A coolant temp sensor bypasser or something? to see if it works in that sense?

[fiftytakedowns]

ANOTHER VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF3NEp_dnX4

[fiftytakedowns]

Crank position Sensor 512 Ohms
Camshaft Sensor 1251 Ohms
ICV 11v

[fiftytakedowns]

anyone see my last three posts?

[fiftytakedowns]

Bump, not the ICV