The E30 Aftermarket Alarm Installation Writeup

[84driver]

Updated the links and diagrams. Scytek diagram added, installation tips links added, and diagram now has 6A and 1A diodes.

Going to pick up some 6A diodes shortly, but am considering what else I'll need for the retained accessory power. The power windows are on a 30A fuse and I read they can easily pull 20A. The radio always-hot wire is only meant for low-amperage and has a 7.5A fuse, so I can't use that source to run the windows.

I'm thinking I'll need two relays for RAP, one for the windows and one for the radio. I can use the radio always-hot for the relay coils and the radio RAP. Unfortunately the power windows circuit looks too complicated to use the existing power windows fuse. I think I'll have to run a fused wire from the battery unless I can find a 30A fused hot source that is more convenient. My 318's wiring doesn't match the '84 factory schematic already though, so I'm trying to keep this simple as possible.

Here's the RAP schematic as currently planned: (based on 12volt.com schematic)



And to help visualize, here's the flow of power after key off (but before door opened):

When the door is opened, the door trigger grounds the 3rd relay (switching it closed), which will then cause the first (door) and second (window) relays to become ungrounded and switch off/open.


EDIT: Some thoughts on the RAP diagram --
This will have the side-effect of enabling the power window circuit through the new fused 30A line when the car is in ACC, instead of only enabling it in RUN as it is now. As a second side-effect the K5 unloader relay will be bypassed and the power windows will be enabled even when starting the car -- but I don't think any of this will be a problem for me.

Also, it's likely I could use a 10A relay for the radio, and 1A relays for the door trigger switch, only needing a 30A relay for the windows... but that will require soldering and won't be as simple. I think I'll just use standard auto Bosch relays for all 4.

[StereoInstaller1]

Yeah, I used normal SPDT relays on mine. I just paralelled both on ACC, but I did sunroof power too.

Have you seen a pic of my alarm? It is a damn relay fest...



Since then I did E36 switches and 4 more relays. Next I am gonna hack that and do the proper 1 touch up/down as per the thread somewhere on here.

[84driver]

Hehe it really is Relay Fest 2011 in there. Where did you pull to get the always-hot 12v for window & sunroof power?

[84driver]

Well the alarm is wired in (except for trunk release) and everything works correctly on the first try! Man do I have even more respect for pro installers now...

[StereoInstaller1]

Well the alarm is wired in (except for trunk release) and everything works correctly on the first try! Man do I have even more respect for pro installers now...

If you nail something down on that trunk release OR if you get stuck, bring it over next week. Maybe your brain and the last bit of mine might be able to work something out.

Oh yeah, power for mine came straight off the battery cable. I used the ACC lead as the main source, but ran my own wires.

[StereoInstaller1]

A quick add: I really appreciate the props to us "pro" installers. I started installing when I was 17, in 1980. I LOVE this work, but it has left me a crippled old man at age 47.

Do it for fun, do it to make your car special, but don't even think about doing this for a living. There is no money left in the business, only greed and misery, liars, cheats and dirtbags or worse yet, corporate bastards who run the show.

Luke

[DaveSmed]

A quick add: I really appreciate the props to us "pro" installers. I started installing when I was 17, in 1980. I LOVE this work, but it has left me a crippled old man at age 47.

Do it for fun, do it to make your car special, but don't even think about doing this for a living. There is no money left in the business, only greed and misery, liars, cheats and dirtbags or worse yet, corporate bastards who run the show.

Luke

Isn't that the truth. I'm a young guy, a "fixer" not an installer, and that shit is already kicking my ass. I rarely touch cars that are not my own or friends/family since I already wear knee braces at work.

I can't imagine trying to get into installing in this day and age, its largely obsolete and the stuff that is still current (sound) you have to compete with big box places that roll the (half-ass) install up in the purchase price.

Kudos to you 84driver, for tackling this and documenting it. A proper clean install takes a little bit of work for sure. Good on you for taking the time to do it and show others how.

[84driver]

Sad to hear that the install profession isn't what it used to be. Definitely requires knowledge from a lot of different areas to do it right! It's been a good learning process for me, but I wouldn't call it easy. Thanks to you guys for the support!!

I've had oral surgery this week so I haven't been doing much car work. However, I did snap some photos during the install process last weekend, so here's the first set of those:

Install Photos

1. Siren mounting
My rusted out battery tray (thanks to the PO). As per Luke's recommendation I mounted the siren to one of the existing holes in the tray.


2. Siren mounting
Siren peeking out from under the battery tray. Red and black wires go from siren through firewall to alarm. Valve cover ground wire visible in bottom of photo. I could have just grounded the siren to the ground point on the battery tray, but mine is in bad shape so I grounded it at the alarm.


3. Routing siren wire
Siren wire headed through the firewall


4. Routing siren wire
Siren wire headed through the firewall


5. Routing siren wire
Siren wire (lower red and black wire -- upper red and black wire is PO's right front speaker wire, ignore that) coming through the firewall behind the glovebox. I did not even have to remove the glovebox to reach it. Per Luke's tip, I ran a coathanger from the driver's side through to behind the glovebox, taped the siren wire to the coathanger, and pulled it through. Make sure to keep the coathanger low and straight or it will get hung up on dash internals.


6. Mounting Shock/Impact Sensor
The shock sensor needs to be mounted securely, preferably close to the center of the car and affixed to a solid piece of metal -- this helps the vibrations transfer to it from the outside of the car. I ziptied mine to one of the heater core tubes behind the driver's footwell vent. (Steering column visible in the upper left of photo).
My shock sensor was tuned well from the factory, but yours may not be! Make sure you mount it somewhere that it can be easily adjusted with a flathead screwdriver. I kicked the tire to test sensitivity -- it measures shock, not tilt -- rocking the car won't set it off.


7. Mounting the door and dome relays
I bound the relays together with electrical tape, and ziptied them to a wire bundle towards the top of the dash.
Ignore all the other wiring in this photo, a bunch of it is due to the PO and doesn't really belong (including the red/black which is not the siren wire).


8. Mounting the door and dome relays
I bound the relays together with electrical tape, and ziptied them to a wire bundle towards the top of the dash.
Ignore all the other wiring in this photo, a bunch of it is due to the PO and doesn't really belong (including the red/black which is not the siren wire).


9. Mounting the alarm
I ziptied the alarm to another wire bundle towards the top of the dash.



Sorry about the mess. This is the last photo I took before I just wanted to get it done. I did not take a photo of the kickpanel wiring, it is as described in many other tutorials: Remove the speaker cover, remove the speaker, break apart the wire bundle and find the matching colors, also find the dome light relay, splice in as specified.

I also don't have a good photo yet of the ignition and ground wiring, but here is a description:
There is a ground point under the dash where the cluster grounds also. You can add a connector at the end of the alarm & relay ground wires and ground to that point. The red and yellow ignition wires are on the connector which must be slid off of the top of the steering column.

The headlight switch wires for the parking lights are really easy to find behind the headlight switch.


My DEI 524N actuator has arrived, so I'll take photos of the trunk part of the installation when I do the trunk release. I've ordered relays online for the RAP because $9/ea at Radio Shack is just too much.


If anyone has any specific questions about the installation please ask! I hope this all makes it a little easier for the next installer. I'm really enjoying my new alarm features!

[Mtriple]

Good info in this thread although the OP NEEDS some insulated spade connectors for your relays. Did you throw a fuse on the power side of the relay?

[reelizmpro]

Don't take this the wrong way but may I suggest mounting the shock sensor to the chassis sheet metal above the steering column. There are a few existing holes there and it will be out of the way and out of sight unless you are on your back and looking up. Having it tie wrapped to the heater core pipes isn't the best place for a shock sensor. Secondly, try to hide/tuck your wiring as well as the brain. It's not hard to do and will make everything else easier to work on without the Alarm components everywhere. I've taken off knee panels and had countless alarm brains just fall right out or be in plain view. Just always been a pet peeve of mine.

[84driver]

Good info in this thread although the OP NEEDS some insulated spade connectors for your relays. Did you throw a fuse on the power side of the relay?

Oops, I just used what I had in my electronics box. You're right, better safe than sorry. Yes, the power source is fused.

Don't take this the wrong way but may I suggest mounting the shock sensor to the chassis sheet metal above the steering column. There are a few existing holes there and it will be out of the way and out of sight unless you are on your back and looking up. Having it tie wrapped to the heater core pipes isn't the best place for a shock sensor. Secondly, try to hide/tuck your wiring as well as the brain.

Please, any improvements are welcome! I'm no pro installer but I do want this done right, both for my car and as example for others.

I'll get under there and move the shock sensor and get a photo. I looked for chassis to attach to but the metal pipes were the most solid piece I could find. Guess I should have been on my back looking harder!

The wiring and brain are tucked, but it's harder to see where everything is and where the wires are going, so I took a photo before I tucked it all. I don't want the next person to see the mess that I found either!

[glucklich21]

This photo disturbs me:

[motorsports_3]

What is the purpose if the dome light relay and what not? Are they used to turn the interior lights on when the alarm is activated or deactivated, or is it used to tell the alarm that a door is open?

[dwvw]

Check the install manual before you move the shock sensor. Each manufacturer has a different idea of where to mount a sensor and are calibrated differently. I know DEI and Firstech both want the shock sensor tie strapped to a large wire bundle.

[bmwstephen]

OP, i'm confused, have you figured out the trunk light trigger issue yet? Thanks for posting!