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    #16
    All right I'm going to bump this from the grave because I actually used a couple of threads with this one included to guide me on a blindfolded euro bumper install.
    I start from scratch and didnt really have any prior knowledge of how euro bumpers are or what they look like with the brackets and what not and searching really brought me not a whole. This thread however, always came up when I would do a search for euro bumper related topics. I just want to add some information that I did not find that would have taken a lot of guessing out of the situation for me and hopefully others.

    Rear install:
    Pretty straight forward with a few exceptions. The biggest deal is where to drill the holes at for the bumpers. If you use the stock holes from the old shocks, they dont line up and if it comes close, the bumper will be sagging way down away from where the body lines tell you it needs to be. Take out the carpet in your trunk, look down by the trunks floor pans and near the tail lights. You'll see what looks like a reinforcement tab with 2 dimples in it. It will be epoxied over by the factory. Figure out which hole you'll need with the brackets in hand, and drill through that dimple. I promise you, it will come out perfectly so that you are using 1 end on the existing bumper shock hole and the one that you drilled. Thats where they made the difference between the euro chassis and American versions. Put the largest diameter bolt end on the bracket into the existing hole for the American bumper shock, and the other smaller diameter bolt on the bracket into the hole you drilled. You'll angle the bracket upright and a little to the side.

    Another trick I noticed, is to keep the nut loose that bolts the bracket to the bumpers. This is so you can adjust it how you need to when aligning the bumper. You can slide a socket and ratchet in just fine even with the bumpers mounted. Everything else bolts up in the original American holes on the sides.

    Front install:
    Very simple, very straight forward. Lines up just like a normal bumper would minus shocks. Bolts in all places that the DB setup you took off would go in. The only hint I have is to do the middle euro plate trim section last and DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS DONT TOO MUCH ON THE TURN SIGNAL HOUSINGS. :)

    Hope that helps for those interested in this topic and can use the search function.

    Thank you come again..

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by JasonC View Post
      This is the one you'll need, cause of your oil cooler. Or don't you have an oil cooler?

      Is it possible to run that lip with the 85 back valance?
      Continuous For Sale Thread
      323i s50

      Comment


        #18
        I run that lip on my 87 w/ euro bumpers but still the US valence.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by scabzzzz View Post
          All right I'm going to bump this from the grave because I actually used a couple of threads with this one included to guide me on a blindfolded euro bumper install.
          I start from scratch and didnt really have any prior knowledge of how euro bumpers are or what they look like with the brackets and what not and searching really brought me not a whole. This thread however, always came up when I would do a search for euro bumper related topics. I just want to add some information that I did not find that would have taken a lot of guessing out of the situation for me and hopefully others.

          Rear install:
          Pretty straight forward with a few exceptions. The biggest deal is where to drill the holes at for the bumpers. If you use the stock holes from the old shocks, they dont line up and if it comes close, the bumper will be sagging way down away from where the body lines tell you it needs to be. Take out the carpet in your trunk, look down by the trunks floor pans and near the tail lights. You'll see what looks like a reinforcement tab with 2 dimples in it. It will be epoxied over by the factory. Figure out which hole you'll need with the brackets in hand, and drill through that dimple. I promise you, it will come out perfectly so that you are using 1 end on the existing bumper shock hole and the one that you drilled. Thats where they made the difference between the euro chassis and American versions. Put the largest diameter bolt end on the bracket into the existing hole for the American bumper shock, and the other smaller diameter bolt on the bracket into the hole you drilled. You'll angle the bracket upright and a little to the side.

          Another trick I noticed, is to keep the nut loose that bolts the bracket to the bumpers. This is so you can adjust it how you need to when aligning the bumper. You can slide a socket and ratchet in just fine even with the bumpers mounted. Everything else bolts up in the original American holes on the sides.

          Front install:
          Very simple, very straight forward. Lines up just like a normal bumper would minus shocks. Bolts in all places that the DB setup you took off would go in. The only hint I have is to do the middle euro plate trim section last and DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS DONT TOO MUCH ON THE TURN SIGNAL HOUSINGS. :)

          Hope that helps for those interested in this topic and can use the search function.

          Thank you come again..
          No offense to anyone on these boards, because I have learned a lot from many, but I want to publicly thank Scabzzzz for his addition to this post. I have been searching for this type of info and his was, without a doubt, the most valuable I have found for my Euro Bumper circumstance. Scabzzzz, thank you for using these forums for what they are meant to do.

          Ian
          Drive Fast Safe
          sigpic

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by scabzzzz View Post
            All right I'm going to bump this from the grave because I actually used a couple of threads with this one included to guide me on a blindfolded euro bumper install.
            I start from scratch and didnt really have any prior knowledge of how euro bumpers are or what they look like with the brackets and what not and searching really brought me not a whole. This thread however, always came up when I would do a search for euro bumper related topics. I just want to add some information that I did not find that would have taken a lot of guessing out of the situation for me and hopefully others.

            Rear install:
            Pretty straight forward with a few exceptions. The biggest deal is where to drill the holes at for the bumpers. If you use the stock holes from the old shocks, they dont line up and if it comes close, the bumper will be sagging way down away from where the body lines tell you it needs to be. Take out the carpet in your trunk, look down by the trunks floor pans and near the tail lights. You'll see what looks like a reinforcement tab with 2 dimples in it. It will be epoxied over by the factory. Figure out which hole you'll need with the brackets in hand, and drill through that dimple. I promise you, it will come out perfectly so that you are using 1 end on the existing bumper shock hole and the one that you drilled. Thats where they made the difference between the euro chassis and American versions. Put the largest diameter bolt end on the bracket into the existing hole for the American bumper shock, and the other smaller diameter bolt on the bracket into the hole you drilled. You'll angle the bracket upright and a little to the side.

            Another trick I noticed, is to keep the nut loose that bolts the bracket to the bumpers. This is so you can adjust it how you need to when aligning the bumper. You can slide a socket and ratchet in just fine even with the bumpers mounted. Everything else bolts up in the original American holes on the sides.

            Front install:
            Very simple, very straight forward. Lines up just like a normal bumper would minus shocks. Bolts in all places that the DB setup you took off would go in. The only hint I have is to do the middle euro plate trim section last and DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS DONT TOO MUCH ON THE TURN SIGNAL HOUSINGS. :)

            Hope that helps for those interested in this topic and can use the search function.

            Thank you come again..
            +2 im soon to do a euro bumper install and this was the most info anywhere....

            wish someone had pics!

            Comment


              #21
              Great info, bookmark'd for when I get around to installing my front euro bumper.

              I've been sketching/plotting/scheming, and I think there's a decently clean way to cut the early US valence and make foglight brackets, avoiding the need to go to euro valence.

              Any idea what the bigger early lip is in the second pic in this thread? I have one and don't know too much about it besides it being from 'teh yurops'.
              cars beep boop

              Comment


                #22
                Another thing I'm noticing about the euro bumpers now that I've had them on for a while.

                Dennis mentioned this on the first page. The drains on the sides of the car are open and when it rains hard, it runs straight into the freakin car. I've had to clean 2-3 inches of standing water out of the battery tray area and the jack/crobar area.
                Anyone know how to get proper drains? Or what to do? I had to temporarily tape mine over so it wouldnt do it anymore. My spare tire area and battery tray is mint with no rust and this would EASILY fuck it within a short amount of time.

                Also, another thing I've noticed is to use the turn signals for the front euro, you have to get the euro pig tails or make your own. The American connectors are NOT the same and wont just hook up. :(

                Comment


                  #23
                  Also, glad I could help guys. I would have taken pictures if I had a camera with me.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    so there are drain holes that fill the trunk with water?

                    Comment

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