Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Replacing links, bushings, etc etc.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Replacing links, bushings, etc etc.

    Decided with advice of peoples to not upgrade swaybars, (at least not rear). I I want a larger front one. (cabby's is slightly larger right?)

    But my endlinks have cracked rubber and I want to replace it all. So what all is there? How many bushings and then endlinks all around? Anything else?

    #2
    Why do you want a bigger front bar? If anything, get a bigger rear bar. Bigger front bar is just going to give you more understeer. Anyways, stock bars are 19mm in the front, and the cabrio bar is 20mm.

    RISING EDGE

    Let's drive fast and have fun.

    Comment


      #3
      Why in the world would I want a bigger rear bar?

      And don't worry about understeer.....the staggered spring rates give me more than enough oversteer.

      Comment


        #4
        Bigger rear bar means more oversteer.

        RISING EDGE

        Let's drive fast and have fun.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Replacing links, bushings, etc etc.

          Originally posted by rwh11385
          But my endlinks have cracked rubber and I want to replace it all. So what all is there? How many bushings and then endlinks all around? Anything else?
          There really isn't too much. For the rear there is just the 'dog-bones' and then the rubber bushings for mounting it to the body. And the front is pretty much the same except that you'll need the ball joint mounts that hook it to the control arm. I replaced mine a little while ago. The rear dog-bones were a bitch and a half to get on. I had to put them on the bar when it was out of the car. Then I jacked up the rear and removed one wheel and the spring on that side, then slid the whole bar up over the diff and in.
          Originally posted by Gruelius
          and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

          Comment


            #6
            I don't want a larger rear bar.

            anyway, back on topic:
            yeah, I want the cabby bar. and thinking about m3 links.

            only anyone know where I'd stand with:
            15.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS
            Vehicles may only exceed the allowances of 13.7 as specified herein.
            Substitution, addition, or removal of any anti-roll bar(s) is permitted.
            Bushing material, method of attachment, and locating points are
            unrestricted. This does not authorize removal of a welded-on part of
            a subframe to accommodate the installation, or the cutting of holes to
            route the bar or links. Non-standard lateral members which connect
            between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.
            The bar may serve no other purpose which is not explicitly permitted
            elsewhere herein. Components such as anti-roll bars and strut
            housings which serve dual purposes by also functioning as
            suspension locators may not be modified or substitued in ways which
            change the suspension geometry or steering geometry,
            and may not
            be installed in positions (e.g. upside down) other than that of the
            original configuration.

            thanks Ken, I just wanted to make sure to get everything.


            01 STABILIZER BAR FRONT D=20MM 1 09/1986 31351130850 $109.48 Buy
            01 STABILIZER BAR FRONT D=20MM 1 01/1985 31351130850 $109.48 Buy
            04 STABILIZER RUBBER MOUNTING D=20MM 2 31351129139 $3.47 Buy
            05 SUPPORT SHACKLE 2 03/1984 31351127202 $1.27 Buy
            06 HEX BOLT M8X20-ZNS 2 07119901120 $0.24 Buy
            07 SELF-LOCKING COLLAR NUT M8 2 31331092887 $0.34 Buy
            08 STABILIZER LINK 2 31351091764 $37.24 Buy
            09 SWING SUPPORT BRACKET 2 31351127263 $1.93 Buy
            10 HEX BOLT M8X45 2 07119912506 $0.21 Buy
            12 FLAT WASHER A10,5X22 2 31111114348 $0.42 Buy
            14 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M10 2 07129964672 $0.21


            01 STABILIZER BAR REAR D=12MM 1 33551127344 $82.32 Buy
            02 STABILIZER RUBBER MOUNTING D=12MM 2 33551129677 $3.08 Buy
            03 STABILIZER SUPPORT 2 33551129195 $0.83 Buy
            04 HEX BOLT WITH WASHER M8X16-Z3 2 07119915066 $0.35 Buy
            05 STABILIZER LINK 2 33551126932 $12.39 Buy
            06 HEX BOLT M8X43 2 07119912501 $0.18 Buy
            07 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M8 2 07129946400 $0.21 Buy
            08 SPACER RING 12X18X1 2 07119932632 $1.26 Buy
            09 SPLIT PIN 3,2X25 2 07119945196 $0.06 Buy
            10 SWING SUPPORT BRACKET 2 33321127717 $1.55 Buy
            11 SELF-LOCKING COLLAR NUT M8 2 31331092887 $0.34 Buy



            So:
            Front links
            Front bushings
            Rear dogbone
            Rear bushings.

            That's it?? (and maybe some self-locking nuts, etc)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by rwh11385
              So:
              Front links
              Front bushings
              Rear dogbone
              Rear bushings.

              That's it?? (and maybe some self-locking nuts, etc)
              The front links are the only things you need nuts for, and new nylock ones come with them. FWIW, I got the parts pretty cheap from BMA.
              Originally posted by Gruelius
              and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

              Comment


                #8
                cool. Thanks Kenneth.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ya the Cabby bar is 21mm in diamater 1mm larger.
                  85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

                  Comment


                    #10
                    cabrio bar and m3 links will likely be way too much

                    Robert, are you choosing a stiffer front bar based solely on what people have told you will work best? Or do you actually feel that your car oversteers too much? If I recall, you're running soft spring rates, which would not necessarily mean that you need a bigger front bar. I'd suggest messing with your tire pressures first if your car doesn't feel quite confident enough

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Bryson
                      Robert, are you choosing a stiffer front bar based solely on what people have told you will work best? Or do you actually feel that your car oversteers too much? If I recall, you're running soft spring rates, which would not necessarily mean that you need a bigger front bar. I'd suggest messing with your tire pressures first if your car doesn't feel quite confident enough
                      I'd gotten a lot of positive feedback about the M3 links, plus it's a nice budget option for better front swaybar. Only $16 from GC + $56 from BMA + welding cost. (No cabby, just replace bushings and M3 endlinks on stock bar)

                      My car oversteers too much. Without a doubt, it wants to go tail first a lot. (Problem solved with careful driving and replacing old bridgestones on my old weaves)

                      I'm running 300/475 right now. I'll be ordering a pair of 650# springs soon and will be going 475/650 over the winter. That's also when I'll be getting the GC tabs welded on, installing M3 endlinks.....and also needing to replace control arms for preventative measures as well.

                      For the meantime, I'll adjust tire pressures to my comfort, and on the second day of my HPDE in two weeks, I want to give no rear bar a try.


                      Thanks though Bryson, the more [knowledgable] input the better. :)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        just making sure you don't blow money on useless shit..






                        ..like I do :)

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X