This is just my insight.
Removal is a bit harder than installation.
Remove the axle nut and nut retainer while the car is on the ground. Or at least loosen it. Jack the car up and remove the brakes and rotor. Then unbolt the half shaft from the differential and support it temporarily. Press the half shaft out by using a 3-jaw puller grabbing the hub.
I used a bearing remover kit (3pc diff sizes) and a slide hammer to it to remove the hub and bearing (both from Harbor Freight). Make sure to remove the circlip first. You'll have to almost break your arm sliding the hammer so many times, but each will come out eventually.
Clean out the bearing socket really well with scotchbrite or crocus cloth. Next, lube up the inside a bit with a little motor oil. Take the new bearing, which should have already been in the freezer for an hour, lol, and tap it with a regular sized hammer around the outside to get it started. Then assemble the HF bearing tool (largest of 3 I think) so that the end is holding on the edges of the back of the socket. It might slip off a few times before you can get it started, but eventually it will hold in place. Crank the bearing in by tightening the nut onto the washer from the outside. Once it is flush with the socket edge, you may have to take the old bearing and hammer it into the new one until it is fully seated in the back of the socket. Replace the circlip.
Now the hub can be pressed by making a simple tool. Go to Lowe's and get a 5/8 (I think) threaded rod about a foot long. They come precut and ready to go. Then get 2 or 3 different sized washers. Get at least 2 of each. Make sure one size is just bigger than the inner race of the bearing, and make sure you also have one that's a little bigger than the inner hub diameter. Get 4 nuts.
Reassemble the parking break first, if you decided to remove it. Now lube up the hub a little and start it into the bearing with a hammer. Now assemble the tool so that the back washers are flush against the INNER race of the bearing with one nut behind holding. On the outside the big washer(s) should push against the hub and tighten in place with one nut. The last two nuts tighten together at the end of the rod so you can keep the rod from turning while tightening the single nut. Tighten it down until the hub is all the way in.
Clean and grease up the inside of the hub. Clean and grease up the axle. Push the axle back in as far as possible by hand. You can use a rubber mallet on the back of the half-shaft to get it in a little further. Once it's in enough to thread the nut on, you can use the nut to pull it in. Once the car is on the ground, torque it accordingly and install a new nut retainer.
Use this info too!!! http://www.schattenbaum.org/tech_art...el_bearing.htm
Good luck!!
Removal is a bit harder than installation.
Remove the axle nut and nut retainer while the car is on the ground. Or at least loosen it. Jack the car up and remove the brakes and rotor. Then unbolt the half shaft from the differential and support it temporarily. Press the half shaft out by using a 3-jaw puller grabbing the hub.
I used a bearing remover kit (3pc diff sizes) and a slide hammer to it to remove the hub and bearing (both from Harbor Freight). Make sure to remove the circlip first. You'll have to almost break your arm sliding the hammer so many times, but each will come out eventually.
Clean out the bearing socket really well with scotchbrite or crocus cloth. Next, lube up the inside a bit with a little motor oil. Take the new bearing, which should have already been in the freezer for an hour, lol, and tap it with a regular sized hammer around the outside to get it started. Then assemble the HF bearing tool (largest of 3 I think) so that the end is holding on the edges of the back of the socket. It might slip off a few times before you can get it started, but eventually it will hold in place. Crank the bearing in by tightening the nut onto the washer from the outside. Once it is flush with the socket edge, you may have to take the old bearing and hammer it into the new one until it is fully seated in the back of the socket. Replace the circlip.
Now the hub can be pressed by making a simple tool. Go to Lowe's and get a 5/8 (I think) threaded rod about a foot long. They come precut and ready to go. Then get 2 or 3 different sized washers. Get at least 2 of each. Make sure one size is just bigger than the inner race of the bearing, and make sure you also have one that's a little bigger than the inner hub diameter. Get 4 nuts.
Reassemble the parking break first, if you decided to remove it. Now lube up the hub a little and start it into the bearing with a hammer. Now assemble the tool so that the back washers are flush against the INNER race of the bearing with one nut behind holding. On the outside the big washer(s) should push against the hub and tighten in place with one nut. The last two nuts tighten together at the end of the rod so you can keep the rod from turning while tightening the single nut. Tighten it down until the hub is all the way in.
Clean and grease up the inside of the hub. Clean and grease up the axle. Push the axle back in as far as possible by hand. You can use a rubber mallet on the back of the half-shaft to get it in a little further. Once it's in enough to thread the nut on, you can use the nut to pull it in. Once the car is on the ground, torque it accordingly and install a new nut retainer.
Use this info too!!! http://www.schattenbaum.org/tech_art...el_bearing.htm
Good luck!!
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