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I have one on my car. Nice product but on mine the anodizing messes with the grounding of the senders - even after I sanded some of the surfaces bare. I've got a "temporary" ground setup until I change my oil again and can disassemble everything for a more permanent solution. The adapter has 3 ports - I've got a temp. sender and a pressure sender and I think I'm going stick a bolt with wire connected to it in the third port the complete the ground.
Mine also leaks a little bit but I may not have tightened it enough.
-Geno
'87 325is (s52'd)
'95 525iT
'02 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
'98 Disco 1
I have one on my car. Nice product but on mine the anodizing messes with the grounding of the senders - even after I sanded some of the surfaces bare. I've got a "temporary" ground setup until I change my oil again and can disassemble everything for a more permanent solution. The adapter has 3 ports - I've got a temp. sender and a pressure sender and I think I'm going stick a bolt with wire connected to it in the third port the complete the ground.
Mine also leaks a little bit but I may not have tightened it enough.
That stinks. I would hate to have oil leaks and bad grounds.
I suppose you could. You'd need to run a line from the adapter to a tee one side of which was threaded for the OE switch or use a 7psi switch that has 1/8NPT threads. I didn't care for the idea of hanging the pressure sender off the adapter. So I have it mounted on the rear side of the motor mount strut and used copper tubing from the adapter to the sensor. That makes it a bit easier to get to the filter, as a bonus.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
I found a M12x1.25, 20mm long, 10.9 bolt. Then I stuck in in a collet lathe and drilled a hole through it and tapped the head side for 1/8 NPT. Screwed it into the block, used some brass fittings and a tee from Ace, and a pressure switch for a Chevy truck (3-5 psi). My oil pressure line is on the other leg of the tee. It cost me about $10 total, and works fine. Ony downside is that I have no provision for oil temp, but there's always the pan...
Oil temp on an M20 is pretty much of a non-issue unless there are serious engine problems. Having a gauge may be "cute", but it really isn't needed.
For us turbo guys, it is actually very helpful to know when the oil is fully warmed up before we rag on it and when the oil is fully cooled before shutdown.
'88 325is
VP UT of Austin Autoholics
BMWCCA 380364
Well done and clean install! I have been trying to decide how I want to do this cleanly and you just figured it out for me. Thank you for posting this!
For us turbo guys, it is actually very helpful to know when the oil is fully warmed up before we rag on it and when the oil is fully cooled before shutdown.
agreed.
Originally posted by Simon S
When a dream is a dream for too long - it becomes a fantasy..
I would not be hanging that heavy oil pressure sender off of an aluminum block...you're just asking for trouble. Remote mount is good of course the but one purpose is to specifically avoid something like this. Not good practice.
What we've done us use the temp sender location on the bottom along with the VDO distribution block for temp. For pressure we simply drilled and tapped the bolt that holds the filter head onto the block. Cheap, easy, very effective.
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