I'm as noob as they come.

[Republican]

I'm a noob.

I recently purchased a 1992 BMW 325i Cabriolet, and I am doing my best to keep this baby running for years to come, but now I'd like to explore the suspension, and I am quite overwhelmed by some of the expertise on this forum.

Should I go ahead and refresh the entire thing, or just get new shocks and struts?

I'm clueless, and what I'd really like is somebody to just recommend a setup for me that I can order and throw to my mechanic to install. The purpose is simple: I drive around 60+ miles per day, 98% freeway. I want the smoothest ride possible.

I don't want it lowered, I don't need it to be shiny. Just needs to be the best for smooth, freeway travel.

I've seen kits like this one from ECS, which seem like a good deal, but am not sure if I need to go that far, but part of me says to just do it, as I'm sure doing this with new shocks and struts will result in a much smoother ride.

I've also heard great things about Bilstein shocks and struts, but when I go onto a site like TheMotorSports.com, I see three different sets, B12, B14, B16, and I'm not sure which one would work best, or if any of those would work at all.

Also, should I consider throwing on the Race Skid Cross-Brace and the BavAuto Front Stress Bar?

If yes to the front stress bar, which one? BavAuto makes two that fit my vehicle.

Like mentioned above, it's a Cabriolet, so keep that in mind. I'd also like to get a hard top at some point, so I'm not sure if that affects weight enough to be a consideration.

Help un-noob me. Explanations, recommendations, or condemnations all welcome.

[phenryiv1]

So the setup for the 1992 325 convertible is tough to shop for. Your ECS link is correct but it looks like the other link is for an e36.

If you are doing the job and plan to keep the car, do it once and do it right. Get a setup like the ECS one (does not have to be that but it is pretty comprehensive) with good springs and struts. This one is matched to a convertible: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...nsion-package/ or you can get H&R Sport model 50407 springs and H&R Sport struts.

You might have an easier time searching if you use a 1989-1991 model year to search. a 1992 model is an e36, except for the convertible. This throws off your product search results.

[Republican]

So the setup for the 1992 325 convertible is tough to shop for. Your ECS link is correct but it looks like the other link is for an e36.

If you are doing the job and plan to keep the car, do it once and do it right. Get a setup like the ECS one (does not have to be that but it is pretty comprehensive) with good springs and struts. This one is matched to a convertible: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...nsion-package/ or you can get H&R Sport model 50407 springs and H&R Sport struts.

You might have an easier time searching if you use a 1989-1991 model year to search. a 1992 model is an e36, except for the convertible. This throws off your product search results.

Excellent. This is what I needed.

So, the ECS kit is good if I'm going comprehensive. It does seem like I'd prefer the touring over the sport, in regards to ride quality.

Any opinion on the Race Skid Cross-Brace and the BavAuto Front Stress Bar?

[berndt]

I'm going through a similar process. I've already done the front "refresh", but that didn't include the strut tops which I think are the cause of my "clunk". I'm thinking I should just do the struts themselves while I'm at it though.


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[berndt]

Also, some of those items in the kit are harder to replace than others (subframe bushings). Keep that in mind.


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[Republican]

Also, some of those items in the kit are harder to replace than others (subframe bushings). Keep that in mind.


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I'm planning on giving it to my mechanic to install, because I don't trust me self.

[berndt]

I did the same for the control arms. It's just something to keep in mind as labor can get pricey. You may want to put off some of the items now to combine work later. Just my $0.02. I've got a bunch of work planned for when it's time to change my clutch. It's original with 165k miles on it!


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[Republican]

I did the same for the control arms. It's just something to keep in mind as labor can get pricey. You may want to put off some of the items now to combine work later. Just my $0.02. I've got a bunch of work planned for when it's time to change my clutch. It's original with 165k miles on it!


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Any thoughts on what labor would cost for the ECS kit, the H&R shocks and struts, and new tires?

[jpod999]

I'm not a huge fan of URO parts, I've heard lots of bad stories. I think if you called up ECS and said you want that kit but want better parts they would probably switch them out for you (for a price increase). They can probably suggest something better.

[Republican]

I'm not a huge fan of URO parts, I've heard lots of bad stories. I think if you called up ECS and said you want that kit but want better parts they would probably switch them out for you (for a price increase). They can probably suggest something better.

Any recommendations on another kit?

Also saw this review:

"Well as kits go- it is a 90% kit. Was missing three components when shipped. And to top things off got everything apart only to realize the kit didn't include the inner tie rod retention plate. Which is now going to take a week before it ships and another week before I actually get it. So a weekend job is now going to take three weeks to complete."

[phenryiv1]

Any recommendations on another kit?

Also saw this review:

"Well as kits go- it is a 90% kit. Was missing three components when shipped. And to top things off got everything apart only to realize the kit didn't include the inner tie rod retention plate. Which is now going to take a week before it ships and another week before I actually get it. So a weekend job is now going to take three weeks to complete."

Start here:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/325is/Suspension?year=1990&e=177&m=20&page=1

Not the best, but good stuff with better brands than Uro.

[phenryiv1]

Any thoughts on what labor would cost for the ECS kit, the H&R shocks and struts, and new tires?

You will have about a day worth of labor, give or take. You will also need an alignment, and tire mounting prices vary from place to place.

I could install that suspension components kit in my (home) garage in 3-5 hours with the tools that I have on-hand. That would be one person, with breaks to look for the 10mm (or 13mm, or 15mm, or 17mm...) socket that gets lots every time you blink. Add another hour to disassemble and re-assemble the strut assemblies.

[phenryiv1]

Also, some of those items in the kit are harder to replace than others (subframe bushings). Keep that in mind.

I'm planning on giving it to my mechanic to install, because I don't trust me self.

If you buy new struts, new rear springs, and new upper strut mounts, you can assemble the rear if you can make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Seems like I am being a smartass but it is REALLY easy if you have a jack, 2 jackstands, and basic hand tools. Nothing fancy is required.

The subframe bushings and rear trailing arm bushings are a true PITA. If you read my build of my vert you can see that I have done a metric ton of work to that car...yet my fresh, new subframe bushings and RTABs are still in boxes.

If it were me and I was paying to have the work done (and I was on a budget), I'd do the RTABs and subframe bushings as one job.

I would do the rear springs and shocks myself, even as a novice. This thread tells you how ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...ear_Suspen.htm ) but the rear upper perch/mount is slightly different for the convertible. Not more difficult- just different. Of course, it is really simple so it should not cost much to have a mechanic do it but who knows with how shops bill jobs. I'd do the rear sway bar bushings and endlinks while I was at it but this is an easy 20-30 minute job later.

The front suspension- upper mounts, strut inserts, springs, control arms, control arm bushings, and tie rods- can all be replaced at one time as part of a single service. The job will require an alignment after, and it is best to do it all at once as doing in in parts can require an additional alignment. The only part that can be done later is the front sway bar bushings and endlinks. Like the rear this is an easy 20-30 minute job later and it would NOT mess up the alignment.

[Republican]

If you buy new struts, new rear springs, and new upper strut mounts, you can assemble the rear if you can make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Seems like I am being a smartass but it is REALLY easy if you have a jack, 2 jackstands, and basic hand tools. Nothing fancy is required.

The subframe bushings and rear trailing arm bushings are a true PITA. If you read my build of my vert you can see that I have done a metric ton of work to that car...yet my fresh, new subframe bushings and RTABs are still in boxes.

If it were me and I was paying to have the work done (and I was on a budget), I'd do the RTABs and subframe bushings as one job.

I would do the rear springs and shocks myself, even as a novice. This thread tells you how ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...ear_Suspen.htm ) but the rear upper perch/mount is slightly different for the convertible. Not more difficult- just different. Of course, it is really simple so it should not cost much to have a mechanic do it but who knows with how shops bill jobs. I'd do the rear sway bar bushings and endlinks while I was at it but this is an easy 20-30 minute job later.

The front suspension- upper mounts, strut inserts, springs, control arms, control arm bushings, and tie rods- can all be replaced at one time as part of a single service. The job will require an alignment after, and it is best to do it all at once as doing in in parts can require an additional alignment. The only part that can be done later is the front sway bar bushings and endlinks. Like the rear this is an easy 20-30 minute job later and it would NOT mess up the alignment.

Like I mentioned earlier, I'll be getting new tires as well, so an alignment was already planned. No worries there.

Any thoughts on the kit, though?

[phenryiv1]

Like I mentioned earlier, I'll be getting new tires as well, so an alignment was already planned. No worries there.

Any thoughts on the kit, though?

See the link I posted a few posts up. The FCPEuro kits are not quite as comprehensive (you have to add upper mounts) but they use Ledforder or Meyle componenrs- a clear step up from Uro.