First off, disregard the screen name, made this account forever ago to buy and sell wheels but now have an e30 and no hondas haha
1984 325e swapped with m20b25 and motronic 1.3 from a 1989 525i
I'm a mechanic and have access to a shop but I cannot for the life of me figure out this problem. I've had the car for about 3 years, and it has always had trouble starting. 6-7 seconds on the starter, a little throttle and it will finally fire. It starts every time, but 19 out of 20 times it takes forever. Stumbles when it finally fires up and smells rich. 1 out of the same 20 times it'll start like a normal car. I've had lots of theories as to why that would be, but it's too inconsistent.
The car also has really poor throttle response. If you stab into it, it hesitates for a second or so before revving. Several stabs in a row result in a stumbly idle and eventually a rev.
I have a smoke machine and have fixed every vacuum leak with no change in the above symptoms. I also replaced the throttle switch and clocked it correctly. Swapped for a known good IACV and AFM, no change. The ignition system is newer, lots of tune up parts, it has done this with different DMEs as well.
I recently got an e46 touring as a daily and have been leaving the e30 parked in the shop. I pull it out in the morning and put it back in the shop overnight. It runs for about a minute for each trip. If the car sits and runs for short periods, it will start up within the first second of cranking every time. Still has the poor throttle response, but starts right up. Makes me think fuel delivery but the tank, pump, and filter have all been replaced and they made no change.
I drove it home for the first time in a few weeks and it is now struggling to idle when I depress the clutch to come to a stop or when it returns to idle after throttle input. It will dive to 200 rpm, sometimes recovering and sometimes stalling out.
My only ideas are something in the wiring related to the swap, or some lingering eta parts that aren't agreeing with the newer DME. (I bought the car half completed when the PO lost interest, not 100% sure of what all is original vs swapped)
I know that's a lot, and its a long shot question, but I figured I'd give it a shot in case anyone had resolved any similar issues.
1984 325e swapped with m20b25 and motronic 1.3 from a 1989 525i
I'm a mechanic and have access to a shop but I cannot for the life of me figure out this problem. I've had the car for about 3 years, and it has always had trouble starting. 6-7 seconds on the starter, a little throttle and it will finally fire. It starts every time, but 19 out of 20 times it takes forever. Stumbles when it finally fires up and smells rich. 1 out of the same 20 times it'll start like a normal car. I've had lots of theories as to why that would be, but it's too inconsistent.
The car also has really poor throttle response. If you stab into it, it hesitates for a second or so before revving. Several stabs in a row result in a stumbly idle and eventually a rev.
I have a smoke machine and have fixed every vacuum leak with no change in the above symptoms. I also replaced the throttle switch and clocked it correctly. Swapped for a known good IACV and AFM, no change. The ignition system is newer, lots of tune up parts, it has done this with different DMEs as well.
I recently got an e46 touring as a daily and have been leaving the e30 parked in the shop. I pull it out in the morning and put it back in the shop overnight. It runs for about a minute for each trip. If the car sits and runs for short periods, it will start up within the first second of cranking every time. Still has the poor throttle response, but starts right up. Makes me think fuel delivery but the tank, pump, and filter have all been replaced and they made no change.
I drove it home for the first time in a few weeks and it is now struggling to idle when I depress the clutch to come to a stop or when it returns to idle after throttle input. It will dive to 200 rpm, sometimes recovering and sometimes stalling out.
My only ideas are something in the wiring related to the swap, or some lingering eta parts that aren't agreeing with the newer DME. (I bought the car half completed when the PO lost interest, not 100% sure of what all is original vs swapped)
I know that's a lot, and its a long shot question, but I figured I'd give it a shot in case anyone had resolved any similar issues.
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