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some info here

https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=112777...

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the 5150 is pretty much just the same generic stuff they flog for m5x etc etc because the bore spacing, rod and main sizes are the same etc so that must mean it will fit right.........it wouldn't be engineered...

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yes, when the stock cam gear mark is aligned to the head mark the cam is actually advanced, so by default the retarded position is likely to perform better. Note that both Nando and Tinkerputzer found...

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They are inclined hence they are in some shear by design

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motor mounts? 11811132322 from old 6 series seem to be available again...

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i happened to measure it and it is like 6 degrees advanced

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you would need to make a tool to either test directly in situ or a tool that you can remove the spring while in situ and then bench test.

To me the fact that there was a 3000 rpm "limit"...

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yeah sounds like a copy of what ATI use (not sure who developed the concept). When i spoke with them they wanted a 7" inertia ring and even that was less mass/inertia than the stock one...

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Mine doesn’t have ignition timing closed loop control. If that functions well enough to knock 100rpm off then it could work to do the same function.

I do have an elite 2500 to go in the...

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i do as you have. IMO it should idle on the stops below your target say 100rpm with ICV not adding any bypass. The ICV then adds a little bit air to maintain target and it can both increase and decrese...

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- With new stock engine and trans mount what is the thickness of the both the engine and trans mount after static deflection is taken into account (or measure the vertical height of front of engine(a...

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i just meant it doesnt look like it will provide much damping...

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looks more like an anti vibration damper...

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it wouldn't have been angled milled 15 degrees it isn't physically possible nor would this head lend itself to angle milling. it is pretty much not going to run better off by a whole tooth unless the...

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Yes, good point, i am fairly certain the odo stops to.

i am running slightly larger wheel/tyre combo so it is pretty much spot on at 110km/h but it is like 3-5% out at slower speeds e.g....

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i have a new pigtail to fix the diff plug because last time i was there the connector was crumbly and was my first thoughts as to the issue but ultimately i will address the cluster as i need to remove...

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It may have been for a safety reason but any aftermarket should also be able to prime for a set amount of time e.g. 3 sec or whatever to build pressure as the fuel pressure will not be maintained indefinitely...

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Is it cutting 12v power to coil ? Hook up a test light that you see while driving...

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yes, definitely prime the pump with ignition on (for a few seconds only) mine will not cold start nicely in winter without it. It doesn't add any significant strain on the system...

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i enable flood clear but never use it after an oil change. i wouldn't worry about it as the bearings are not dry