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blindly putting a IM shaft from one block into another seems like atleast a bit of a risk to me it should atleast be checked as a matter of course which isnt any more difficult than on rod or main

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There is evidence of the front bearing flaking away and rear bearing edge loading so perhaps it was the rotation cuased by failure / damaged bearing from hot tanking or fatigue causing thrust issues....

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the intermediate (IM) shaft itself was new, or if not was it original to the block?
the IM bearings were new/replaced? what do they look like now?
the thrust plate was new or used?
how...

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it says QTY 2 so thats the key bit of info indicating one at the top to.

i have had better luck with no washer at the top though (with non OE manifold). Try at your own risk

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if you dont like rattling dont convert to a single mass from dual mass or lighten a single mass to the nth degree. The G260 is not as bad as some for being noisy and depends how loose it is but you will...

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you might also find some discoloration, machining marks, scores, mismatch or other witness marks that could also lead you to either the correct position or which is not correct. The caps on the rod are...

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i had specific reason to get particular length ones.

To be honest about the smallest rear adjustable bar i know of is 16 mm from whiteline which is what i have with a 24mm up front. Perhaps...

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i use the m3 style ARB links from turner as there are a myriad of lengths and they are still sealed

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...h-adjustable-f...

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fortunately RHD is a very different design.

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Yes, you can get away without reinstalling the spring, however a means for redundancy if the bolts ever come loose it doesn't hurt to have it in place. Normally i do the pump when i am doing the belt....

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https://www.e46fanatics.com/attachme...et-pdf.910963/

not sure this helps...

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The spring is there to set the initial tension on the timing belt. it effectively gets isolated and can theoretically be removed once you fully lock down the timing belt idler bolts.

There...

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mine werent worn much but i did find a aftermarket set that reduced the slop both radially and axially. i cant recall which version i ended up using.