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i have seen it listed as a 50 x 2.4 o-ring

there is no picture showing in post #3 so we have no idea what you are referring to

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works to do what exactly?

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i think the tendency is to think of these bearings as being soft like the babbit layer on a bearing shell and i don't think that is quite the case but aren't these more like aluminium from a hardness...

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rule number 1 with "standalone ECU" choose the one with right features that has good local support

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The customer should always speak to their machine shop, to me these things should be line bored concentric after install before minimally honing/reaming/burnishing....

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blindly putting a IM shaft from one block into another seems like atleast a bit of a risk to me it should atleast be checked as a matter of course which isnt any more difficult than on rod or main

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There is evidence of the front bearing flaking away and rear bearing edge loading so perhaps it was the rotation cuased by failure / damaged bearing from hot tanking or fatigue causing thrust issues....

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the intermediate (IM) shaft itself was new, or if not was it original to the block?
the IM bearings were new/replaced? what do they look like now?
the thrust plate was new or used?
how...

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it says QTY 2 so thats the key bit of info indicating one at the top to.

i have had better luck with no washer at the top though (with non OE manifold). Try at your own risk

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if you dont like rattling dont convert to a single mass from dual mass or lighten a single mass to the nth degree. The G260 is not as bad as some for being noisy and depends how loose it is but you will...

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you might also find some discoloration, machining marks, scores, mismatch or other witness marks that could also lead you to either the correct position or which is not correct. The caps on the rod are...