Super Eta, budget stroker...

[modifiede30]

If the machine shop knows the specs on a BMW head, let them take off whatever is necessary to get it flat, assuming they stay within specs. If they don't know BMW heads, than I'd recommend that you give them the tolerences so they don't go too far with shaving, or it will warp again very quickly, and possibly crack. I'd actually be a bit worried that its warped, since this may indicate that the head has already been shaved. If the shaving will take the head beyond specs, let me know, I have an extra casting around that you can buy pretty cheap.

[Sean]

The head has 181304 miles on it. And, I'm not even sure if the car ever overheated in it's life or not.

He said he's only going to take off what he needs to do to get it flat. I don't think he said it was any major warping - he said it was pretty slight, if I remember correctly. He saw no cracks or anything either. Would it be possible to just leave it, or should I get rid of the warping? I'll give him a call tomorrow morning before he starts on it, and ask if he knows the tolerances, and if not, I'll tell him.

Is there a way to tell if the head was shaved, other then previous records from the car - which I don't have.

installing new valve stem seals requires compressing the springs and removing the valves, it's not too hard with the right tool (I got a $20 compressor from sears that worked like magic). I would definetly replace them while you have them out.

Nando, where could I get that compressor?


Also, modifiede30 - what type of exhaust gaskets do the sets come with - I was gonna get the kind with the flaps on them. And, if it's unopened, were you planning on using it, or selling it?

[nando]

have him make it flat, if it's not flat your gasket will not seal correctly and you'll have oil/coolant/compression leaks.

here is the compressor I bought:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00947627000

I was surprised at how easy the head was to disassemble, I'd never touched one before and I had it all apart in an hour, despite a bent rocker shaft (what a bitch!).

[modifiede30]

Yeah, don't skimp on the head work. If its warped, have it shaved. The gasket set I have is not for sale, its for me (just had an extra head shaved, ported and polished with a new valve grind and guides installed). Like I said, the one from Eurasian is only about $68, just buy one, its worth it since it will give you the new valve seals (which you'll want to install after having the head redone anyway), the cam seal, exhaust and intake gaskets, head gasket, etc, etc. Also, ask your machine shop if they're re-seating and grind the valves to spec. This will make a world of difference since it will create a good seal between the valve and valve seats, not to mention the airflow around the valves.

[Sean]

Excellent, I will definately do just that.

Thanks for everything guys! I'll definately post more if I have more questions. ;)

I'm gonna call the shop tomorrow, and give him the clearances, and maybe even fax him a copy of the pages out of my bentley. I'm gonna give him the height measurements, so he cna tell if it's been shaved already or not, and tell him how much he can safely shave.

By teh way, I'm not having the head redone. I'm not going to bother rebuilding the head, I just wanted to get the easy stuff done, so here's what I'm thinking:

Shave the head, to flatten it of course. Then have the machine shop reseat and grind the valves to spec. (Quick Q: does this involve any new pieces, or just the shop doing some grinding?). When that's done, I'll install the new valve seals when I have the head at home. (I ordered that part from Sears nando, gonna pick it up on Friday)

Thanks again!

[modifiede30]

The valve work shouldn't require any new parts, just grinding. Given the mileage on the head though, there are definitely a few more things I'd have done aside from shaving and valve seating, but if you don't want to spend a lot, that'd be the minimal things to get done.

[Sean]

The valve work shouldn't require any new parts, just grinding. Given the mileage on the head though, there are definitely a few more things I'd have done aside from shaving and valve seating, but if you don't want to spend a lot, that'd be the minimal things to get done.

What else would you get done, and how much do you think it would cost?

Just wondering. ;)

Thanks

[modifiede30]

With that kind of mileage I'd probably get new valve guides inserted. The guides aren't that expensive but inserting them might be. I just had my head redone with shaving, valve guides and valve job for about $450, which included the guides, removal and insertion, shaving, and pressure testing, and all the grinding of the valves and the stock angle job (our heads already have a 3 angle valve). Not sure how this compares to what you're paying but head work is generally pretty expensive.

[Sean]

I just called Dan, the guy doin my headwork - right now it's gonna be about $100 - to have my intake manifold, head, valve cover, and my timing belt cover all cleaned off - then to have my head shaved. He said my valve guides felt pretty stiff. The valve job - regrinding - would run me another $100. So $200 total at that point. Should I have new valve guides installed at the same time - since things have to be taken apart anyway? Or, would it be fine?

[modifiede30]

If the valve guide clearance is within specifications, I wouldn't bother, unless they're right on the edge of needing to be replaced. The specs for this are in Bentley. This is measured using a dial gauge to see how much lateral movement there is between the valve stem and valve guide. I'd at least have this checked to make sure they don't need to be replaced.

[Sean]

OK, cool. I'll have him do the valves too and double check the guide clearances. Then when I finally get this home, I'll get the new valve seals installed. Mmm..this is coming along nicely. :)