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    #16
    Ok well I have alot of reading to do, but from my understanding the zf310 is lighter and does not need a modified trans bracket or drive shaft. so iwould like to go with the five speed.

    im not going to be dailying the car so i dont thing the extra gear and trouble is worth it.
    M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

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      #17
      Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
      Ok well I have alot of reading to do, but from my understanding the zf310 is lighter and does not need a modified trans bracket or drive shaft. so iwould like to go with the five speed.

      im not going to be dailying the car so i dont thing the extra gear and trouble is worth it.

      That is correct. 120lbs vs 90lbs. The 5 speed is 100% bolt-in.

      And yes, I'd tend to recommend that option for you. I only switched to a 6 speed because of the fact that I often drive 80+ miles/day, mostly highway. Even with that, the 5 speed wasn't bad paired with the 2.93.

      That said, for the 6 speed, the modification to my trans brace took me approximately 15 minutes. And the driveshaft cost $200 total to modify. So it's not like it's THAT hard to do the 6 speed.
      85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
      e30 restoration and V8 swap
      24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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        #18
        cool so five speed it is, and all i have to do is weld the brace for the cps on the front timing cover and get the m60 toothed wheel? dosnt seem to bad, thanks for the help.
        M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

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          #19
          And modify the cam trigger.
          85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
          e30 restoration and V8 swap
          24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
            broke up with my girlfriend and went to boston to buy a m62.
            That's how a project should start, no distractions lol. Good luck!

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              #21
              Originally posted by JGood View Post
              And modify the cam trigger.
              Could you please explain?
              Last edited by dougie30; 01-14-2015, 03:38 PM.
              M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

              Comment


                #22
                Just google obd-I m62. Tons of info out there. I've never done it.
                85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                e30 restoration and V8 swap
                24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
                  cool so five speed it is, and all i have to do is weld the brace for the cps on the front timing cover and get the m60 toothed wheel? dosnt seem to bad, thanks for the help.
                  You can't just weld something on wherever... Because the crank trigger is how the DME computes ignition timing, EVERY DEGREE MATTERS. It's easy to not get it right on... and if you don't, how will you know? The engine has no timing marks.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                    You can't just weld something on wherever... Because the crank trigger is how the DME computes ignition timing, EVERY DEGREE MATTERS. It's easy to not get it right on... and if you don't, how will you know? The engine has no timing marks.
                    yea I understand, I have no idea how im going to tackle that yet..
                    M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                      You can't just weld something on wherever... Because the crank trigger is how the DME computes ignition timing, EVERY DEGREE MATTERS. It's easy to not get it right on... and if you don't, how will you know? The engine has no timing marks.
                      I disagree. Jeremy "monkey business" installed a CPS in front using the B44 the timing mark is at the same place but the 60-2 wheel is read the same no matter where the CPS is installed. Its more important to make sure the CPS is close and square with the teeth so it reads properly when fabricating a bracket which I plan. You can see the timing mark on the cover with this pic on doing.

                      Last edited by Denny; 01-14-2015, 08:49 PM.
                      Denny
                      ___________
                      1990 BMW red 325IC M30B35 all stock Girlfriends ride
                      1991 BMW black 318IC (M62b44 Megasquirt 2 ver 3.57)

                      Blogs:
                      http://bmw325e30.blogspot.com/ (restoration)
                      http://bmw325e30turbo.blogspot.com (Twincharge M20)
                      http://bmw325e30m62b44.blogspot.ca/

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Denny View Post
                        I disagree. Jeremy "monkey business" installed a CPS in front using the B44 the timing mark is at the same place but the 60-2 wheel is read the same no matter where the CPS is installed. Its more important to make sure the CPS is close and square with the teeth so it reads properly when fabricating a bracket which I plan. You can see the timing mark on the cover with this pic on doing.

                        I did some reading and i found the same thing, as long as its close to the wheel and square it will still send the proper signal to the dme.
                        M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

                        Comment


                          #27
                          The sensor can read the wheel whenever it is perpendicular and the gap is small enough.

                          HOWEVER, the ANGULAR LOCATION of the sensor is *very* important.

                          Say for example, that the DME expects that #1 piston will be at TDC when the sensor detects the leading edge of the first tooth after the missing teeth.

                          However, if the sensor is installed such that it reads the *trailing* edge of the first tooth after the gap, then ignition timing will be 3 degrees off (retarded in this case) ALL THE TIME.

                          That's why the exact location of the sensor is very important. There also isn't a timing mark for use with a timing light anywhere on the engine... so you have no way of measuring or verifying whether you got the timing right or not.
                          Last edited by The Dark Side of Will; 01-15-2015, 02:37 PM.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                            You can't just weld something on wherever... Because the crank trigger is how the DME computes ignition timing, EVERY DEGREE MATTERS. It's easy to not get it right on... and if you don't, how will you know? The engine has no timing marks.
                            Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                            The sensor can read the wheel when it is perpendicular and the gap is small enough.

                            HOWEVER, the ANGULAR LOCATION of the sensor is *very* important.

                            Say for example, that the DME expects that #1 piston will be at TDC when the sensor detects the leading edge of the first tooth after the missing teeth.

                            However, if the sensor is installed such that it reads the *trailing* edge of the first tooth after the gap, then ignition timing will be 3 degrees off (retarded in this case) ALL THE TIME.

                            That's why the exact location of the sensor is very important. There also isn't a timing mark for use with a timing light anywhere on the engine... so you have no way of measuring or verifying whether you got the timing right or not.
                            I disagree again! No way the properly installed CPS will not read TDC correctly. The crank pulley ONLY installs in the correct position and will only FIRE when TDC is found. The timing is electronically added or substracted from the DME depending on conditions of other sensors..(knock sensors..IAT.CTL...etc..) ...in my case with Megasquirt I will have full control over it.
                            Denny
                            ___________
                            1990 BMW red 325IC M30B35 all stock Girlfriends ride
                            1991 BMW black 318IC (M62b44 Megasquirt 2 ver 3.57)

                            Blogs:
                            http://bmw325e30.blogspot.com/ (restoration)
                            http://bmw325e30turbo.blogspot.com (Twincharge M20)
                            http://bmw325e30m62b44.blogspot.ca/

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by Denny View Post
                              I disagree again! No way the properly installed CPS will not read TDC correctly. The crank pulley ONLY installs in the correct position and will only FIRE when TDC is found. The timing is electronically added or substracted from the DME depending on conditions of other sensors..(knock sensors..IAT.CTL...etc..) ...in my case with Megasquirt I will have full control over it.
                              If the CPS isn't installed at the exact position it needs to be, ignition timing will be off. If it's located 10* off, the DME will get the TDC signal either 10* ATDC or BTDC.

                              Ensuring proper CPS location is critical but shouldn't be that hard. Getting measurements from an m60 would help.
                              85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                              e30 restoration and V8 swap
                              24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                                The sensor can read the wheel whenever it is perpendicular and the gap is small enough.

                                HOWEVER, the ANGULAR LOCATION of the sensor is *very* important.

                                Say for example, that the DME expects that #1 piston will be at TDC when the sensor detects the leading edge of the first tooth after the missing teeth.

                                However, if the sensor is installed such that it reads the *trailing* edge of the first tooth after the gap, then ignition timing will be 3 degrees off (retarded in this case) ALL THE TIME.

                                That's why the exact location of the sensor is very important. There also isn't a timing mark for use with a timing light anywhere on the engine... so you have no way of measuring or verifying whether you got the timing right or not.
                                There is a timing mark on the M62 timing cover and marks on the pulley. Not sure on the M60 pulley, it would surprise me if there aren't any marks. Online pictures seem to show a couple holes in the M60 pulley, those are probably the timing marks.It's a pain to see with everything in the way, but it's there, I used it to time my engine with a light.

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