Tips for Front Suspension Install?

[c0rbin9]

Hey guys, I'm finally getting ready to do my front suspension refresh and I wanted to query the community for any hints or tips - things that I might not read about in the (numerous) install videos I've watched.

I'm somewhat familiar with the procedure - in total, I'll be tackling the front subframe, upper oil pan, control arms, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, outer tie rods, engine mounts (E28 535i).

Usually I find when starting a project that it's the little details or order of operations sort of things that aren't always clear.

Some things I've thought of to avoid problems are tightening suspension with car on ground, loosening transmission mounts before tightening engine mount bolts to align drivetrain, installing CABs w/ dish soap as lubricant. Also got my handy torque wrench ready w/ a list of proper torque specifications on the suspension.

One thing I'm unsure about is the steering rack. Would rather not have to unhook it from the steering knuckle if I can help it, so I was planning on leaving it attached. Will it be possible to remove the subframe like this? Also, opinions on installing subframe + control arms as a unit or subframe first then arms?

Biggest job I've undertaken so far, wish me luck, should be fun.

[uturn]

If you plan on dropping the front subframe then the steering knuckle will have to be disconnected. Also the power steering hoses/reservoir unless the engine and pump are coming down too. The ball joint on the control arm was a tight squeeze for me with the engine in the way but wasn't impossible. Not sure why you would need to drop the subframe anyway unless you plan on replacing it or powder coating it.

[c0rbin9]

Thanks. Subframe is being replaced with a reinforced one as it is bent and the engine mount tabs are torn. How that happened with a stock M42, I have no idea.

[Steve Corbett]

The control arm ball joints are MUCH easier with the sub frame lowered. Although on the M42 you may have more room than with the M20.

[87-325ic]

just did all that again on my e30. Here some thoughts..

if you remove the steering knuckle, the bottom bolt on the rack must come ALL the way out to pull off, the top one on the steering shaft needs to be loosened only. I used a pickle fork up top and the spline fell right off the shaft. 50 tried with two screwdrivers and it never budged. touch it with the pickle fork and it fell right off. pull from both sides of splines.

the control arm to strut/ steering knuckle balljoint was really tough to get out. the tie rod end balljoint came out easy, but the other one stayed until it was all apart and on the ground. then it released with more force.
the top of the subframe bolt for the control arm was actually easier to get to and remove. youll need a 22mm swivel ratcheting wrench here for the best access. a 7/8 inch also works but is a little bigger. a straight non swivel 7/8 ratcheting wrench did it for me.
I removed the bottom nuts from the motor mounts and lifted the engine by the oil pan a few inches to better get access to this area, and to pull the rack right out.

For you, doing it all (replacing subframe) id support the engine, and remove all the subframe/ suspension at once.

steering knuckle, pwr steering lines, 4 subframe bolts, 6 strut mount nuts. the whole shebang comes out and you can deal with balljoints with better access.

impact guns make life better.